Paint Finishing

If you have access to a body shop with a spray booth, thatwould be your best bet, youcould mixthe exactNissan shade you need...but since not everyone works in a bodyshop, an airbrush is your best friend, but spraycans will work.

Just remember to do light coats, five light coats is better than two dripping wet coats.

Also allow plenty of time (5 to 10 minutes minimum) in between coats before spraying your next coat.  after spraying your last color coat, let it sit for a couple of days, wet sand the paint with 600 grit to remove any imperfections, and spray a couple of more coats.  Let that sit for a few days, then topcoat with a clearcoat, one or two "dust coats" to get you started, and then a few nice coats to make it shine.

if you need to polish, do so after letting the clear"gas out" for a few days.

I will tryto get a few pics of a chevell that I two toned and cleared up later today...

Justin

Thanks for that

Couple of questions

what clearcoat would you recommend, matt, gloss purity seal? WHen you say "dust coats"do you mean a basic polish? Also do you use alclad at all for aluminum or anythingt like. I have a few pipes and engine bay items that are aluminum and have used Tamiya aluminum paint bu wondered whether alclad is the way to go?

kind regards

Leigh

a "dustcoat" is a very dry coat of clear, for example, on your first coat, dont spray the clear as close to the model, like maybe two feet away, and move fairly quick.  You dont want the car to be shiny on the first coat or two of clear.  The reasoningfor this type of coat is that it will allow you to spray you final coats of clear a bit heavier, to let the clear "lay down" flatter.

As for what type of clear to use, I usually just buy a spray can or two from my local Wal Mart-hardware-autoparts store.  I like the Duplicolor cans, because they have a fan type spray nozzle, that allows for a better clear job. 

As it is always said, I reccoment trying it out on a cheaper model or scrap body first, pick up something cheap, Revell or Amc/Ertl stuff is usually fairly inexpensive and try it out on that first.

As far as detailing the enginebay goes, I really never go beyond the standard kit instructions, as I never display my models with the hood open, but I see no reason for the Alclad products to not work the way you want them to...

Just follow this link. It will tell you exactly what to do from start to finish. I'm using these techniques on the Viper I am currently doing: (sorry, you have to copy and paste the link in your browser bar)

http://www.briansmodelcars.com/tutorials/tutorial.asp?TutorialID=12&CurPage=1http:/

Thanks fellas thats just what i was looking for

 I put together one of the wheel assemblies last night. I had some trouble with the coverage of the metallic brown for the brake callipers and the chrome silver paint. Using Tamiya colours for both of those) the chrome especially has come out quite thick for some reason. Good job i have the photo etched parts set for the kit, they have made the wheel assembly look better than it should.