Tamiya Clear coats

I just started using Scratch X myself and I too was impressed.

Chris

I find the cheapest way is the best for me.

I simply wipe on 3 coats of future with an old t-shirt. no polishing needed , self levels and is super glossy and smooth. zero risk of damaging decals. and if you mess up just spray on windex and remove it, and start over

I use the Detail Master polishing cloths and I use automotive polishing compounds, carnuba wax and a finishing wax. Any of your top brands work quite well.

Matt

I have heard allot of builders say, "wait for a day before clearing." but I have cleared after an hour or so that I put the decals on. You just got to give them time to set up. Of course the longer the better. I think that you would be safe in about an hour or two.

Matt

You are correct.  If you do a misty, light coat and you get that gritty finish like sand paper. You could put 50 wet coats on after. Your finish coat will be all orange pealy and bumpy. Of course, if you do have this happen. You can always wet sand with 500 in between the clear coats. The Tamiya is pretty forgivable. That is why I like it so much and recommend it.

I have used just about every type of clear in a can over my 25 years of model car building. I also have worked a few years in a custom paint shop that our cheapest paint job was 5K. Your best bang for your buck in spray cans is the Tamiya. Personally I use Automotive clear through my gun these days, but I always have a can of the Tamiya on hand. Here is the last model I did with all Tamiya spray paints.

Here is one I am working on right now that I cleared with PPG Automotive clear through my gun.

That would be the Tamiya TS-13 Clear. The damage to decals will happen if you put a heavy coat down first. Give a light coat first. Don't mist it. Then you will get a gritty coat down. Just do not making it real wet and heavy. Let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes. Then you can start with your wetter coats. After that keep it 10 minutes in between coats.

 Hope that helps.

Matt