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1959 Cadillac Eldorado!!

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  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Maryland
1959 Cadillac Eldorado!!
Posted by cruz on Monday, March 1, 2010 2:07 PM

Finished this one yesterday!! Paint is Persian Aqua Lacquer, wetsanded, polished and waxed. Used Model Car Garage Detail Set for emblems and other small details. Basically an out of the box build. Slightly weathered engine and chassis.

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  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Maryland
Posted by cruz on Monday, March 1, 2010 2:10 PM
  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Truro Nova Scotia, Canada
Posted by SuppressionFire on Monday, March 1, 2010 2:13 PM

cruz Sweet ride! If photographed at eye level with suitable back ground sitting on dark grey sandpaper to represent ashfault it would look real! Great jobBow Down

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y211/razordws/GB%20Badges/WMIIIGBsmall.jpg

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Brizioland
Posted by Brizio on Monday, March 1, 2010 5:34 PM

Looks very nice!

fox
  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Narvon, Pa.
Posted by fox on Monday, March 1, 2010 10:06 PM

Outstanding paint job cruz.Toast Bow Down The rest of the car is pretty great too.Yes

JimCaptain

 Main WIP: 

   On the Bench: Artesania Latina  (aka) Artists in the Latrine 1/75 Bluenose II

I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here.

  • Member since
    March 2006
Posted by TD4438 on Tuesday, March 2, 2010 5:52 AM

Awesome!Even my wife got a kick out of this one!

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Tuesday, March 2, 2010 8:52 AM

Beautiful Caddy!

So long folks!

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Maryland
Posted by cruz on Tuesday, March 2, 2010 1:35 PM

Thank you guys!!!

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posted by IBuild148 on Tuesday, August 31, 2010 9:11 AM

cruz,

While searching for the techniques / tips on achieving a "mirror" finish for my 66' Chevy Hardtop I came across your "caddy" post.

First let me say this is gorgeous.YesYes You can actually see the refelection

Second, I figure you ( or anyone that has auto paint experience) can tell me how to achieve a similar look so I don't make a mistake on my 66'.

Here are the steps that I have taken so far and want to take going forward :

1. Prime. DONE.

2. Paint body with MM chezoom teal in light coats. DONE.

3. Let dry for 1 week.

4. Using Micro Mesh 8000 grit wet

5. Use Micro Mesh 12000 grit wet

6 Top off with a coat of McQuires Car Wax.

Thoughts or help appreciated.

 

 

IBuildOne48

Teach modeling to youth!

Scalefinishes.com

http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww122/randysmodels/NMF%20Group%20build%20II/Group%20Badge/NMFIIGBbadgesmall.jpg

 

  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: Florida
Posted by Railfan 233 on Sunday, September 5, 2010 9:22 PM

WOW! I love '59 Cadillacs. The best classic in my opinion. What manufacturer made this kit? I've been looking for one.

  

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y211/razordws/GB%20Badges/WMIIIGBsmall.jpgRed, White, and YOU! group build of 2010

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Australia
Posted by OctaneOrange on Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:01 PM

She's a thing of beauty

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Friday, September 17, 2010 3:15 AM

Yeah, a real CLASSIC! Keep 'em comin'

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Maryland
Posted by cruz on Thursday, September 30, 2010 11:35 AM

Thanks my friend! I will tell you what I personally do to achieve that shine on my finishes.

First and foremost, the body has to be primed and the foundation has to be perfect in order to achieve these kind of results. I used a Lacquer type paint to finish mine off but basically, the rule applies to any paint you choose. I wetsand my basecoat in between the layers of paint but specially if I find any large pieces of dust or debris while painting. I am using a metallic paint so you have to make sure that if you sand in between coats that you finish off with a last coat of paint, you will disturb the metallics when sanding them.

If you are using enamels, you have to wait longer than Lacquers for them to dry. I recommend buying a food dehydrator to speed up this process, they are really handy. After this, I shoot my clearcoat if needed, if you are using enamels, there is enough inherent gloss in the paint, meaning you won't need any clearcoat but if your paint is metallic and you want to wetsand and polish at the end, then you need to clearcoat.

I used Tamiya clear after shooting my basecoat. There are 5 coats of clear, shot in intervals of 30 minutes each. Make sure to go lightly on your first 2 coats and then shoot the last 3 or 4 nice and wet to the point where the paint will not run on you. I had to use my airbrush for the basecoat but I shot the clear right from the can. Make sure that your clearcoat is warm when shooting it, it lays a lot smoother with less orange peel at the end.

I like to use all of the sanding grits from my Micro-Mesh  system starting with the 3200 which is the workhorse and the one you have to be the most careful. I like to use them wet but when you do this, you have to constantly monitor your progress, it is easy to rub right through your paint if you are not careful. Just keep a towel on your side and dry the car as you go through the process, you want to eliminate the heavy orange peel with this first grit. After this, I continue with the 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 and ultimately the 12000. It is a tedious process but the results speak for themselves!

After using the polishing system, I like to use Maguiar's Cleaner wax for two reasons, it eliminates my swirl marks and it gives me a great shine at the same time. My other little secret is using a good quality chamois, it is better than using cotton or flannel which in reality will leave small scratch marks on your finish. Just rub your wax in a circular motion with your index finger and remove the wax with the chamois, I guarantee you will love the final results!

 

  • Member since
    June 2006
Posted by KennyB on Thursday, September 30, 2010 7:06 PM

Cruz, that is a beautiful finish. I just wanted to know, if you are using a product like bare metal foil, when do you apply it. Do you apply before the clear coat or apply it after the final polishing is done.   Thanks, Ken 

fox
  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Narvon, Pa.
Posted by fox on Thursday, September 30, 2010 9:37 PM

Cruz, do you use Mr. Miaki's method to do the waxing? Wax on ->. Wax off <-. LOL  Only kidding. Fantastic job. Toast Bow Down If I could do a paint job like that, I might have gotten better than Bronze at Penncon two weeks ago.

Jim Captain

 

 Main WIP: 

   On the Bench: Artesania Latina  (aka) Artists in the Latrine 1/75 Bluenose II

I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here.

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Maryland
Posted by cruz on Friday, October 1, 2010 10:26 AM

Thank you guys, I am honored that you like it!! Ken, I apply my BMF after I finish up polishing and waxing the body. I do not apply clear over my BMF, no need for that. 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posted by IBuild148 on Thursday, October 7, 2010 10:12 PM

cruz,

Thanks for getting back on this and sharing your techniques.

I will trying this on some scrap kits before trying on my 49 Merc.

IBuildOne48

Teach modeling to youth!

Scalefinishes.com

http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww122/randysmodels/NMF%20Group%20build%20II/Group%20Badge/NMFIIGBbadgesmall.jpg

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Atlanta, Ga.
Posted by MrSquid2U on Friday, October 15, 2010 6:41 PM

That is the nicest paint job I can recall seeing?Cool

Fantastic finish and I agree that a couple of the shots almost pass for a fullsize beauty! (It's only the background as stated already.)

 

Kudos.Bow Down

       

 

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