Aluminum Paint Woes!!

QUOTE: Originally posted by 9x19mm Cool I have yet to use alclad and would like to give it a try Ill remeber that when the time comes.

Yeah I had like 3 bottles of it and finally decided to bust them out. Great stuff ! Should have used it sooner.

Cool I have yet to use alclad and would like to give it a try Ill remeber that when the time comes.

QUOTE: Originally posted by 9x19mm Markii I understood alclad needed gloss black primer. Just curious as to why you used white.

Alclad chrome or very shiny finish needs a gloss black undercoat. I did not want a high shine on the aluminum parts.

Thanks guys!! I have checked out the RC211V post. There is lots of good stuff there.

I ended up striping the plating with simple green and sprayed on some testors Non-buffing aluminum metalizer. It looks GREAT!!

Thanks Again,
Jason

Markii I understood alclad needed gloss black primer. Just curious as to why you used white.

I forgot to say on my last post that I am working on 2 RC211V kits right now and I used Alclad II dark aluminum on the plated parts, primed with white before hand. Looks very good. Will try to post some pics later.

Check the RC211V thread I posted awhile back on this forum(pic included).I painted the swingarm with Tamiya TS-17 gloss aluminum spray paint and then lightly buffed it with SNJ polishing powder.

I have the buffing aluminum and the non buffing. The non buffing isn't quite as shiny as the other, after the buffing that is. They're not greatly different and both looked good even after Future. MMF knows his stuff.

Thanks MadModelFactory! The information is greatly appreciated. As for the non-buffing metalizers; Testers sells a metalizer paint, usually in the same display rack as the buffing metalizers, that is marketed as being “Non-Buffing”. I was just curious if anyone out there in computer land has used this “Non-Buffing” metalizer with good results. Yes, I did plan on striping the plating from the frame. I personally like to use Simple Green, it seems to work great for me. Again, thanks a lot for the information MadModelFactory.

Take care and Thanks,
Jason

There are many other paints out there that can be buffed(Humbroll, Gunze, etc.) among them the most recommended is Alclad II.

Than there are also the buffing powders, the more you buff it the more it will look like chrome.
Procedure is normally the same, paint part GLOSS black and apply product over it, wait some 30 minutes and start buffing.

If you want to redo the finish on the frame I would recommend to strip the plating of first, can be done by inserting it into kitchen bleach/acid.
As always test on a bit of sprue/runner first, as intensity of those products will vary.

Not sure what you mean with NON-buffing metalizers, I guess those are straight metallic paints like the Tamiya ones, metalizers usually need to be buffed or can be left as applied.

Metallic colours are best air-brushed onto the kit, depending on the kit & finish brushing metallic colours can produce a better effect.
Example:
A 20yr old Roadbike looks better brushed as the engine would have seen plenty of wear and tear( if not have been repainted already). On the RC211V and the FW24 this does NOT apply as the engine is overhauled after EVERY race.

Advise on metallic paints some will run if sealed or topcoated with an incompatible product. Humbroll Gold was famous for that.
As for recommending metallic paints there will be as many different recommendations as responses to this thread.