Bpig -Thanks for your comment and continued viewing .
The chain procedure is as follows for Hiroboy p/n 941.
Try to get an accurate length needed by using string or wire on the model around the sprockets, as a chain would go ,this is important .
The kit comes with a sprue of plastic rollers and a p/e fret of links ,these are not connected to the fret and are held in place by a backing of red vinyl material.
Lay the sprue in front of you ,put the p/e fret as close as poss to the sprue.
The chain will have a beginning and end ,try to visualize these as this is an area where a f/u can occur.
In your left hand ,using a Squadron scribing tool, 'hook' off a link and with your right hand grasp the link with tweezers . Make sure the tweezer tips are centered between the holes on the link .
Lay the link on the roller pins on the sprue. I start by laying all the inner links first on the roller pin heads ,then back to start and laying all the outer links on . Watch that you have the links the same way as they have a front and back. Basically pull them off the fret in the same way and you will be ok. Make sure that there is a beginning and an end ,these will be joined so WATCH OUT. This is the longest of the procedures needed here so try for a rhythm. The Squadron tool can be used to press the links home.
So now there is a beginning, an end and all the links in place.Fire up your soldering iron and test it on the sprue edge, when it melts the plastic easily, move to the roller pin heads , it will take a few to get the feel of it ,but let the weight of the tool mushroom the pin heads ,DONT linger and rotate the head of the iron when it gets covered in melted plastic .This wont be a lot but it screws up the pin heads if too much builds up. Dont worry aboot hairs of plastic and any mess. After a while it is possible to get the look of the real rivited chain ,simply amazing. There are extra parts so some practice is possible. I estimate with 2 chain kits 3 bikes could be outfitted if a guy was careful with the chins.
Turn the sprue over and repeat this procedure for the opposite side of the chain .Watch link layout and match the ends up carefully. After the pin head melting , take some 220 grit paper and go over the heads lightly ,WATCH OUT FOR THE CHAIN ENDS , if the chain has a beginning./end there should be exposed pin heads ,dont sand them off. Sand both sides removing excess melted plastic,hairs etc, finish wit h a 600 grit or finer until the look is good.
So the chain section is complete ,take a NEW razor blade and score the tops of the roller attachment points repeatedly ,lightly , then 'guillotine' the rollers off one by one to ensure a clean removal. Pressing the edge of the blade to the top of the links is helpful here.
The raw chain is ready to length test and finish now. Install it on the model and check your length ,use the procedure to add links or remove if needed.It is wise to leave the chain short and add a few here. The chain will be finished on the model so do the painting needed ,final install and melt it together. I typed this all twice ,somehow losing the first reply so I hope you appreciate it and it helps get your chain made. I recommend putting aside enough time to get it made ,its a repetitive boring series of actions but WELL worth the effort ,the kit is faultless, and falls together easily ,dicipline is the key here as well as patience and the willingness to get it done. Try not to defeat yourself with a 'too tough for me' approach or other defeatist attitudes. It was 2-3 hours working steadily, with a few short breaks as the iron heated up, to get the chain made. This would be a reasonable time frame to get it done.
As far as the paint work goes ,its done ,the effect is very subtle ,the red ,white and carbon fibre is just visible under a very thin coat of flat black.
I dont like to post w/out pix so here is the gas tank ,no cf here ,I nay finish with a little Rub n Buff on the exposed metal parts.
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