Real car paint vs Aztek airbrush

I use the DupliColor line often. Get the spray cans, and decant them for your airbrush, and they spray wonderfully. Go to DupliColor's website, and you will see their entire line, and which are available in lacquers, straight enamels and so forth.

i heard house of color works good

That's why this forum is the greatest.  I never even would have thought of checking out an auto supply store for paint.  I figured either my local hobby shop or car dealer would have been the only solutions.  Sometimes you get your head so far into the problem (among other places) that you forget to think outside the box.

Thanks!

Eric

I build cars every now and then. If I might suggest, your local auto parts carry touch-up paint already in spray -Dupli-Color brand-  which works fine on those models I've built. IMHO, easier to use and about the same price of the Testors spray cans.

Thank you all for responding!  I primarily work on WW2 U.S. aircraft so usually my goal is to make the planes well weathered.  Making a model really shine is kind of going in the opposite direction than I'm normally used to.  Ha-ha-ha!

I am going to utilize all the advice you guys gave me.  Thank you for the great tips!  As you can plainly see, when it comes to working on model cars, I am an uber-newbie.

Best wishes,

Eric

echolmberg

Thank you Don and Trey!

I should have been more specific in my original post.  I figured I would use the touch-up paints, thin it down, then run it through my airbrush.  Do either of you (or anyone else reading this post) know if that is feasible?  When using those touch-up paints, what would I use to thin them with?

Thank you,

Eric

On modern auto paints, even touch-up, you must use the mfgs recommendations. If it is a true lacquer or enamel, you can probably use generic thinner.  Be very wary of auto acrylic lacquers or enamels, try to get old fashioned lacquer or enamel.

Some excellent award winning model autos have been painted with good old spray bombs!

Agreed with above the primer needs to be cured to prevent 'hot' or aggressive paint from attacking the plastic. Best to spray a scrap model or plastic first before committing to your latest work.

The small 'touch up' spray cans come in the colors you need to match factory paints. I have used them in the past with mixed results, the main issue was no primer coat which was my own impatience and not the paints fault.

Now for a perfect shine you will need to work slowly wet sanding between coats (1500 grit) and finishing off with actual auto wax. I prefer Meguire's auto polish. Like said above try first on a 'test' unit. Also note the polishing compounds or 'fine cut polish' are NOT to be used on clear plastic as the chemicals will fog it! ( I have a P-51 canopy to prove that mistake) Use Future for the clear parts and leave items like tail light lenses off until the paint is cured & waxed.

Thank you Don and Trey!

I should have been more specific in my original post.  I figured I would use the touch-up paints, thin it down, then run it through my airbrush.  Do either of you (or anyone else reading this post) know if that is feasible?  When using those touch-up paints, what would I use to thin them with?

Thank you,

Eric

If you are talking aftermarket touch-up paints, several types are available, depending on the color.  Metallics are pretty much acrylics these days- either acrylic enamel or acrylic lacquer.  However, many non-metallic colors are still available in real  (cellulose?) lacquer, or even enamel. You will have to buy a minimum amount, either a pint or in some cases a whole quart.

The only thing I would worry about with the Aztek nozzles is if you don't clean well enough, those acrylic auto paints are very resistant to solvents.  But then, isn't the nozzle on those replaceable?

Most oem finishes are polyester resin base coat topped with a Urethane clear. The base coats are very agrresive and 'attack ' plastic so care is a must along with a good primer. The actual paint used at the factories you ca'nt buy or would be able to spray even if you could. The paint has the consistency of syrup and is pumped at extreme pressure into spraying 'bells' that contain a small turbine wheel that spins at 18,000+ rpm to atomize it. Also the over the counter paints have some rather nasty chemicals in them so proper respirators and protective equipment is a must. Hope that helps Trey