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Build thread: Ford Taurus SHO

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  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by Dirkpitt289 on Wednesday, October 5, 2011 7:48 PM

Coming along nicely. I was a SHO man myself. I had two GEN 2's. I look forward to seeing how this comes out

Dirk

On The Bench:

B-17F "Old 666" [1/72]

JU-52/53 Minesweeper [1/72]

Twin Me 262's [1/72] Nightfighter and Big Cannon

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Australia
Posted by OctaneOrange on Tuesday, October 4, 2011 7:06 PM

wet and dry can be used both with and without water. without, it's coarser and clogs up quicker. water helps to wash out the paper and makes a slightly smoother result, but takes longer.

tips? go easy so you don't go through the primer and expose the plastic, otherwise you'll need to re shoot some primer on it and try again.

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Buffalo, NY
Posted by macattack80 on Friday, September 30, 2011 7:52 PM

JailCop

Dumb question:  I've never wet sanded...is it literally wetting the sandpaper?  is there special technique?  Thanks for the tips!

Pretty much.  splash some water on the surface of the model as well just to make sure everything you are sanding stays wet.  Keep rewetting the model as you sand as needed.

Kevin

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  • Member since
    September 2011
  • From: Watertown, NY
Posted by JailCop on Friday, September 30, 2011 7:43 PM

Dumb question:  I've never wet sanded...is it literally wetting the sandpaper?  is there special technique?  Thanks for the tips!

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Buffalo, NY
Posted by macattack80 on Friday, September 30, 2011 7:38 PM

Nice job detailing the dashboard. 

I would recommend wet sanding the primed parts with some ultra fine grit sandpaper to smooth it out.  It makes a big difference on the look of the color coats.

Keep up the good work

Kevin

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  • Member since
    September 2011
  • From: Watertown, NY
Posted by JailCop on Friday, September 30, 2011 7:22 PM

Made some more progress tonight, decided to go with red for the interior, took some liberties with the paint to give it a somewhat custom look.

Wheels/tires:

Wheels/tires with the dash:

Interior before dash installation:

Complete interior "bowl"

Outer shell taped and waiting for primer:

Primed parts:

 

Debating on whether or not I should hit the primer with some real fine grit sandpaper or maybe some 0000 steel wool prior to starting paint....suggestions?

  • Member since
    September 2011
  • From: Watertown, NY
Posted by JailCop on Thursday, September 29, 2011 8:13 PM

Well I made a good chunk of progress, calling it a night to let paint dry.  Only 89 parts in this kit so it'll be a quick build I imagine.

 

Here is the interior pieces, haven't decided what color to pair with the black for the interior, and suggestions?

 

Here is the radiator and engine mounted on the subframe, secured to the chassis:

 

Here is the underside of the chassis with the suspension and exhaust installed:

 

In case anyone wonders, I've left some spots on the chassis without paint until I know for sure they wont need any cement, it'll get touched up before final assembly.

 

Thanks for looking guys, any suggestions for interior trim colors?  Or body colors?

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Buffalo, NY
Posted by macattack80 on Thursday, September 29, 2011 5:34 PM

You're off to a good start!  For reference photos I usually check Ebay Motors.  There is usually the real car for sale there with some engine and interior photos. 

Kevin

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  • Member since
    September 2011
  • From: Watertown, NY
Posted by JailCop on Thursday, September 29, 2011 5:28 PM

I'm going to as OEM as I can get.  The directions called for aluminum, and that's what I had on hand.  I tried Google for engine bay pics, but came up empty.  I think the flash may also be lightening it a bit.

  • Member since
    March 2003
Posted by rangerj on Thursday, September 29, 2011 5:22 PM

Are you going for a custom look, or an OEM look. If you want an OEM look then the engine block is Ford Engine Gray and that is a little darker than what is pictured. The intake plennum and tubes, as well as the cam/valve covers, are painted a light gold. The hold down bolts for the valve covers are chromed, and those suckers are $24.00 each if anyone is interested. I have a 1990 SHO. The model you are doing is either a 1991 or 1992 IIR. The Yamaha engine is nothing short of amazing.

  • Member since
    September 2011
  • From: Watertown, NY
Build thread: Ford Taurus SHO
Posted by JailCop on Thursday, September 29, 2011 4:36 PM

Hey guys, I'm pretty new here and to modeling, but I just started my latest kit and I thought I'd share my progress.  This will not be as in depth as most of you guys do, the level of skill here is unbelievable!  I don't plan on any mods or conversions, and I'm not yet skilled enough or equipped to do much filling, weather, or the like.  Please feel free to comment on my progress and I welcome any and all advice, including constructive criticism!

 

Firstly, here it is, all ready to be washed and ready to go, not sure yet on the color, will probably stick with the red.

Engine block, cam covers and exhaust manifold:

Complete engine, minus paint, test fitted to the subframe:

Complete painted engine cemented to the subframe, paint is Testors enamels, aluminum, white, and semi-gloss black.

 

Dinner time now, but I'll be doing more work tonight as SWMBO is at her mothers tonight!  Stay tuned for more progress!

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