First Model Ever! (Work In Progress))

It's looking good, Jeff!  As I'm sure you know, building models is about building what you like and how you like it.  I like to think of the instructions more like "suggestions" really.  You like another color over the one depicted in the painting guide?  Go for it!

It's kind of hard to tell from the picture that it was a bad paint job.  What didn't you like about it?  Was it pebbly?  Uneven?  If you shed some light on it, maybe some suggestions can be tossed out as to how to fix or avoid the problem.

Best wishes,

Eric

Welcome to the addiction!!!!! For a first build it looks good. Did you spray or hand paint? If you hand painted the frame it looks like your paint was to thick.

Richie

Thanks for the comments Eric. I think the engine turned out pretty good, especially for being my first time. I think next time I will paint the "hoses?" on the side of the block, black just to help them stand out. The paint job is definitely not even, and on the opposite side, it has a run. That was a first coat, and I didn't wash/dry or prime the cab before painting. By "pebbly" i'm guessing it has the look of trapped in dust? If so, it definitely is "pebbly" on the top on the cab. Also, Do I need to spray the inside as well? I also noticed the wheels don't properly fit on the rear axle? Is this a common issue or do i just need to bore out the hole a little? So far I have about 8 hours and a max of $10 spent, cheapest hobby I have ever undertook!

Looks allright from the photos - sure far better than my first model (OK, I was like six years old then ). I also think you should ask specific questions about things you are not happy with. If I were required to note something, I'd say paint the exhaust some other color than the rest of the block. Painting things like distributor (you already got that), generator, filters - stuff like that - different colors also helps to add more interest to the engine. You could also easily enhance the looks of the machineby adding the wires made of copper wire or soldering wire (it's softer, simulates soft lines well). Hope it helps, once again good luck with your project

Paweł

So far,so good.Take your time and have fun.

I indeed hand painted the frame. Thanks for the pointing out the paint thickness, I didn't notice it myself. I did mess up when I began painting, as the "square" where the engine was mounted was painted with gloss black instead of engine red or flat black like the instructions called for. The paints looked pretty close to the same in the jars, and it was a guessing game, haha! I got all my paints correctly labeled correctly for future use!I did seem to really put on the paint though, as it kept thinning out on certain areas (brush was too wet?).

On a side note; After painting the frame and beginning to assemble it, I did realize that glue doesn't adhere to painted surfaces that well. Quick lesson learned that should help me for all future projects!

For a first time build, it looks very good. Like was said above, work slow and take your time. If you have any problems or questions, just ask. There are lots of great guys on here that are glad to help and are very knowledgeable. Keep up the good work.

Jim

jmilitano

On a side note; After painting the frame and beginning to assemble it, I did realize that glue doesn't adhere to painted surfaces that well. Quick lesson learned that should help me for all future projects!

Ha-ha-ha!  You have now been baptized in the well of the modeling world!  I think it's safe to say that every single person you see on this forum has done that when they were first getting into the hobby.  Yes, try to avoid getting paint on the area where glue will go.  If you do, it's no big deal in the least.  Just take your hobby knife and scrape the area clean.  A couple of swipes and you're all done.  What I've found that works pretty good is to take some poster putty and put a little blob on the area where I know the glue will go especially if I'm going to spray paint the area.  I put the putty on, spray the paint and then remove the putty.  Voila!  Instant clean spot.

Another thing to watch out for is this:  Make absolutely certain that, when you're handling the clear "glass" parts, you have no glue or paint on your fingers!  Both will leave big fingerprints right on the clear plastic that are a pain to remove especially if you're new to the hobby.  I suggest you just double check your fingers when working with those parts.  If you can get your hands on some "Future" floor polish, I'd get some.  By dipping the part in Future, it forms a nice protective layer on the clear parts and it also does a great job of reducing or even eliminating any scratches you might have.

Otherwise, it seems like you're plugging right along and doing great.  If you had fun with this kit (and I hope you did), it's going to get even better with the next!  And the next!  And the next!!!

Eric

I will definately look for some of the poster putty that you mentioned Eric, thanks. I guess it would be in the school section of a wal-mart? Also, thanks for the tip on the windshield, I will make sure my hands and fingers are super clean when I start handling them. Does it have to be "future floor polish"? I am guessing it is a wax, and where do I find it?

Yes, check the school section of your local wal-mart.  A little bit goes a very long way.  I can't even remember when I got mine.  The stuff is reusable several times over so it really lasts forever.

Future floor polish is a clear acrylic if memory serves.  It was most popularly knows as "Future" but I think most recently it's been changed to "Pledge with FUTURE Shine!"  Either way, you'll find it in a clear plastic bottle in the cleaning area at your local supermarket or Walmart.

For something like a model car window, I'd pour some Future into a small bowl deep enough to submerge the clear plastic part.  Then, with a set of tweezers, grasp a tiny corner of the "glass" (or some part of it that might not be seen after it's glued in place) and dunk it in the Future. Take the glass and touch the corner of it to a paper towl so that you wick away as much excess as you can.  Place the glass on a paper towel to dry.  Some people will place a box or cover of some sort over the part as it dries in order to keep the stray piece of lint from settling on it.  I usually let it cure overnight but maybe someone else can speak for its curing time.  When it has cured, you'll be left with a crystal clear windshield that will be protected from things like glue fumes which can chemically etch the clear plastic.  I've even gotten paint on a windshield that has simply wiped off with thinner.  If I hadn't coated the part with future, I would have fogged up the part.

Eric

Got a little progress done today, lots of sanding to fix the runs in the paint of the body. I also assembled the rear quarter panels and finished installing the suspension.I painted a little more of the interior and messed around with "tinting" techniques that were suggested in my other thread. I will have some pictures up tomorrow of my progress. Tomorrows plan is to repaint the body and all associated pieces, as well as assemble the bed of the truck and place it on the chassis.