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evolution v wrc

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  • Member since
    November 2005
evolution v wrc
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 8, 2004 6:52 PM
hey guys, i'm helping my brother assemble his evolution v wrc and before we start assembling, i would like to ask any advice or tips? i know there are more experienced modelers than me here.. suggestions would also do! thanks :D
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 9, 2004 4:19 AM
is there anything specific you want help with? cause it's really up to you how detailed you want to get and how much time you want to spend.
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Upper left side of the lower Penninsula of Mich
Posted by dkmacin on Monday, February 9, 2004 5:21 AM
Is it a Tamiya or Hasagawa kit?
Small matter really, neither has an engine. Take your time and it will come out fine. Speed Channel had the Swedish Rally on TV last night, use the repeated broadcast to weather the car or look for the small details.

Don
I know it's only rock and roll, but I like it.
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Maine,USA
Posted by dubix88 on Monday, February 9, 2004 1:52 PM
HEY,
No matter what, take your time painting the body. Use a primer and spray in thin light coats. Good luck, and post your results.

Randy
THATS MY VOTE "If a woman has to choose between catching a fly ball and saving infant's life, she will choose to save the infant's life without even considering if there is a man on base." -Dave Barry In the words of the great Larry the Cable Guy, "GIT-R-DONE!!!"
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 9, 2004 7:25 PM
Thanks guys... it's a Tamiya kit.... can't afford all the paints right now... is it ok that i paint the car after i finished assembling it or i should paint it in the middle of the assembling process?
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Upper left side of the lower Penninsula of Mich
Posted by dkmacin on Monday, February 9, 2004 7:38 PM
Not really sure what paints the EVO calls for. . .
You can save some by just getting a few to start, Aluminum can be used in place of Steel if you add a little black. Mix em up!
Also if you add Gold to Black you get a nice Composite look.

Don
I know it's only rock and roll, but I like it.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 9, 2004 7:47 PM
ok thanks don... i'll keep that in mind.. i'll be going to the hobby shop later and hopefully can find those colors... :)

Andrew
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Upper left side of the lower Penninsula of Mich
Posted by dkmacin on Tuesday, February 10, 2004 5:15 AM
I use Tamiya colors, but have been able to mix the Testor's Acrylic paints with them in small batches.
Good luck!!

Don
I know it's only rock and roll, but I like it.
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: New Zealand
Posted by nicholma on Wednesday, February 11, 2004 12:20 AM
I've built the Evo3 and Evo4 (Haseqawa) but not yet the 5 or 6. The best advice is just to follow the Tamiya instructions they are very good. Test (dry) fit each part before glueing. Carefully remove the mould line which will probably be on many of the parts especially the drive shafts. You may also find fine mould lines on the front and rear quarter panels near the front and rear lights. These must be removed as well or the body paint will show them. The wheel attachment to the brake assembly is often a weak point so decide whether you really want the car to roll on its wheels. If yes then be very careful with the glue application, if no then be generous. If you plan to display the model with the front wheels turned then don't foget to glue the steering wheel at an appropriate position.

You could really get away with matt black, silver or aluminimum. If the interior is white then if you really can't afford the paint then the interior could be left unpainted (I've done this before) but make sure the seats and dash are painted well and the roll cage (as you mentioned WRC I presume its the rally car) is glued well and any mould lines are carefull scrapped/sanded away. The detail on the dash will tend to draw the eyes attention away from the rest. The body can be painted any time but do not fix the glass (use a white glue NOT a cyno type glue when you're ready for this), headlights etc until you have the body painted, also obviously do not fix the completed chassis to the body until its painted.

The decals work well with Micro sol/set.

The Tamiya Evo's are fabulous kits and will produce a splendid model. Take your time, follow the instructions and you'll produce a great result.
Kia ora, Mark "Time flies like the wind, fruit flies like bananas"
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, February 11, 2004 12:57 PM
Thanks don..

Thanks for the nice tips nicholma... so you mean if i wanted to glue clear parts to the body, it's better to use white glue (elmers glue)? how do i remove white glue if i ever applied some to the clear glass? and how do i remove tamiya cement?
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: New Zealand
Posted by nicholma on Friday, February 13, 2004 2:11 PM
What I mean by white glue is water soluble glue often used by the wood working fraternity. I use Krystal Kleer which is specifically for models, I have never seen Elmer's glue so I don't know whether its the same thing. Anyway its water soluble so any over flow can be removed with a bi of wet cloth. Tamiya cement can't be removed from clear parts without a lot of work. It will have to be sanded off then the part polished to remove the sanding marks.
Kia ora, Mark "Time flies like the wind, fruit flies like bananas"
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 13, 2004 7:14 PM
ok.. thanks nicholma. i'll try to find those things. and thanks for the tips.

Andrew
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