New to 'real' models!

At least you can get a 68 roadrunner model to build him. If you need more tips or inspiration, try Finescale's sister site "Scale Auto" http://cs.scaleautomag.com/f/

Added thoughts:

A great gloss finish can be ruined by dust or specs of dirt so clean the spray area several times and use a "tack-rag" just before painting. You could also build a good "paint booth" with a cardboard box. Seal the cardboard inside the box with cheap clear or white paint so that the bits of dust and dirt are trapped and not stirred up when you are spraying. Clean the booth every time you use it because the overspray will be the new dust in the box. Mount the object to be sprayed and spray light coats and evenly cover the model. As stated above the last coat is put on a little heavier unless you are going to use a clear gloss. Practice with the airbrush  AND with the pressure setting as well as the thinning ratio for the paint you are going to use. Use the same brand of thinner as the paint color.

Make sure the airbrush is clean before each use and spray a test area before spraying the model. Temperature and humidity can have a variety of effects on the paint so do a test shot first (this bears repeating). Let the model dry for several days to several weeks depending on what kind of paint you use./ Enamel takes longer to dry and lacquer dries rather quickly. Make sure the model is clean and free of finger prints before painting. Paint will not stick to oil from your skin. I wear gloves when I handle a model for paint purposes. The Road Runner and the Plymouth GTX were bad A%& Mopars back in the Day. IIR the Mopar big block were an orange color.

I have to agree with Don-the gloss paint job is the key-and my airbrush skills aren't that good.  

Given that I use acrylics (indoors), when I'm building a car model, I break down and grab a can of Tamiya or Testors lacquer and head outdoors (or into the garage when I had one) Another plus to the spray can route is that Testor's has a lineup of OEM colors-might be able to find the exact match

Probably the hardest thing in car modeling is getting a decent gloss paint job.  Most models are of military subjects, using flat paint. I know fellow modelers who will not tackle a civil subject just because they are afraid of a gloss finish.

I think the key to airbrushing is practice. The secret is to use scrap materials to practice on, and get to where you are satisfied with the finish before you try to paint the actual car model.

I consider doing a good gloss paint job a matter of brinksmanship.  You need to do a real wet finish coat, taking it up to the point just a few seconds before it runs.  How do you recognize that point?  The practice- and a good light/lamp at your bench.

There is a group of forums down at the bottom of the list, in the Tools, Techniques and Reference Materials, called the Painting and Airbrushing forum.  This is a very valuable forum for those new to airbrushing (and actually, for anyone doing airbrushing no matter how experienced).