SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

First car finish

2110 views
11 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: Long Beach, CA
First car finish
Posted by pathvet9 on Tuesday, July 7, 2015 6:19 PM

I am finishing up my first car model, a 1:25 AMT 1969 Camaro. I used Tamiya rattle cans and did some finishing and have applied Novus #2.

I now want to apply some side decals and assume they will go on over the polish?  Confused

Then what do I do to set the decals? A clear coat and if so, what is best? I have a rattle can of home clear coat but don't know if I trust it?

Thanks in advance from a newbie.        Bow Down

Cheers, Jake

------------------------------------

Nuts to all but my Norfolk terrier is laughing

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: State of Mississippi. State motto: Virtute et armis (By valor and arms)
Posted by mississippivol on Tuesday, July 7, 2015 6:49 PM

They should still go on ok. If you don't mind the difference in sheen, you can forego the clear coat.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, July 7, 2015 7:58 PM

What Jake???!!! A car?! ;)

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, July 8, 2015 9:00 AM

Decals should stick to a gloss finish fine.  Problems come with use over matt finish.  Decals do not really need sealing, but  a clear coat helps with uniform sheen over both decals and paint.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, July 8, 2015 10:26 AM

If you do not seal in the decals with a too coat, and you plan on keeping the model for many years, the decals will eventually dry out and pull away from the surface. We are talking in the 10-20 year range. But it will most likely eventually happen. Especially in the climate of the area that we live in Jake.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November 2014
Posted by STX440 on Wednesday, July 8, 2015 10:33 AM
When I use a clearcoat I try to use the same brand as the paint I used. Better safe than sorry IMO.
  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Seabe on Wednesday, July 8, 2015 11:45 AM

Seeing that you've use Tamiya rattle cans up to now, I agree, stick to the same!

BUT... TS13 (Tamiya gloss clear rattle cans) can be notoriously difficult for some people and may "eat" decals. I have not had such problems (touching wood!) - BUT I tend to apply over other TS spray (you're safe there!) and thin layers usually helps.

However, I have not yet applied polish and either decal or clearcoat over that...

  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: Long Beach, CA
Posted by pathvet9 on Wednesday, July 8, 2015 4:58 PM

Carlos - what are YOU doing in cars!? I am giving this one to a friend who gave me the kit as a joke, so now the jokes on him. I already tired the license plate decals and they fell off some after drying so I coated them but I think a clear coat would be necessary to hold them. If not Tamiya TS13, do you think I can use Krylon Crystal Clear gloss?  Huh?

Cheers, Jake

------------------------------------

Nuts to all but my Norfolk terrier is laughing

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, July 8, 2015 5:02 PM

Do clear coat.

I don't like Krylon. It's cheap but you get what you pay for. It goes on pretty thick.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, July 8, 2015 6:01 PM

Jake I just had to chime in because I saw it was you. ;) I am not a car model guy as you well know. I have only completed one for me in the past 30+ years. But it does sound like the decals have an adhesive problem. In that case, a top coat is a must. I can't say anything for or against Krylon. But I would suggest my old favorite of Future. Or you can check with the car guys at IPMS Chapter meet in a couple weeks.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: Long Beach, CA
Posted by pathvet9 on Thursday, July 9, 2015 2:28 PM

Thanks for the tip. I had not tried it. What would YOU recommend?  Carlos thinks Future and I think the car guys do use it?

Thanks for your time.   Toast

Cheers, Jake

------------------------------------

Nuts to all but my Norfolk terrier is laughing

  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Seabe on Thursday, July 9, 2015 11:08 PM

Yeah, I have used the closest thing we have to Future over here (South Africa) to good effect... Don't know what you have as base colour, but mine was not over a metallic colour. And it was in small scale (43rd).

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.