Wet sand before base coat?

Thanks JohnH! The phone gets things done better than email it would seem. Cool. I feel better about dealing with people over the grape vine. Maybe I'll finally get some of those clothes and wires I've been wanting. Thanks again! And welcome the the forums!!

Oh, almost forgot ... if you can swing a $75 order, you get 25% off ...

Enz - I placed and received a shipment last week ... give them a call at 1-888-338-5798 ... your gonna pay $4 for shipping and handling (no matter how much you buy) so you might want to get a few things to save a little $$$.

Good luck - John

Oh yeah, definently. I have the Detail Master website saved. From what I've seen they look really nice. Quality and price. But I have tried to send emails with both of their addresses listed but my mail was always sent back to me. Said that the address wasn't found (something similar to that). And I was thinking about printing off the order form and filling it out and send it in, but, I wasn't sure if they would have the items in stock (or if the company even existed anymore). I know now that the company is alive and well. The ordering system just seemed a little off to me.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Enzo_Man I'm not sure how to get the detail master abrasive cloths. If I can get 'em I would.

Enzo, First post on this board (hey all) ... but, have you gone to the source? That is, combine the 'detail' and 'master' (detailmaster), add a "dot com" and you'll find a great source for these awesome fabric-backed sheets (among other things). (Seems to be a nice lady [owner?] filling orders after web placement ... orders are filled with very good to great service.)

I cut my sheets (there is one for each grit) in halves or thirds (with a good scissors) ... if you use this technique, be sure to mark the back of each "cut" with the grain of the grit ... as it will be (read, *is*) impossible to discern the "lower" 3K's from one another (some of the sheets do no have enough "markings" on the fabric backs).

Best of luck ... working on a BBR 2002 Ferrari 360 Modena 24H Le Mans, myself ... really sucks (*do not buy this 1/24 "kit" of BBR's*). What a piece of s?** ... $125 for a resin that wasn't cast right (the outside shell, while nice, is *five degrees* off to its inner resin mold ... lots of routing, sanding and filling. Mechanicals are only "marginal".) ...arrgh.

Mahalo - John

I generally use a well used piece of P600. I'll use it on resin or white metal first before using it on any of the paint coats.

No problemo!

Thanks man. I was just in Wal-Mart auto buying Castrol Super Clean but I didn't think to look for sand paper. I did look in the paint section and they only have 150 -300 or so. I have some 600 but that didn't work so well, even on armor. I'm gonna use the Super Clean to clean some parts and redo 'em. Thanks Again --Spencer

Since I use auto paints I carefully use 2000 grit paper that you can get a Wal-Mart or at any auto part store. I'm not sure how to get the detail master abrasive cloths. If I can get 'em I would.

What grit sand paper do you guys use?

I would say it depends on how the dry primer feels. This is what I do. I run the back of my finger on the primer after it is dry to see if it feels smooth or not. The back of a finger is quite sensitive and can feel the irregularities. If it doesn't feel very smooth I wetsand. Try it, it may help ya.

I generally always wet sanded the primary before applying the top coats, and on occassions haven't sanded the primer at all. I have found no difference in coat adherence but it does make a difference to the quality of the successive coats. I'll always sand between coats to get the smoothest surface for the next coat to be laid down on.