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Problems with decal fit

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  • Member since
    November 2017
Problems with decal fit
Posted by Byff on Monday, November 6, 2017 3:08 PM

I've been modelling on and off for 30-odd years, but have rarely done much at what I could consider an advanced level.  No weathering, for instance, and compromising on paint colors when I didn't have what I needed.  I'm now trying to advance my skills to the next (or *a* next) level.

My current projects are vintage Mustangs, the Revell '66 Shelby GT 350H and the '70 Boss.  They're intended to be gifts for my parents, who are (or at least used to be) Shelby Mustang enthusiasts.  (My mother is named Shelby, and my birth year is 1970, so I figured this was a somewhat appropriate way to thank them for some of the support they've provided over the past two very rough years.)

The Boss came together pretty much without issue.  I utilized elements from both the "street" and "custom" builds to put together something I hope is relatively unique.  But the Shelby doesn't have much in the way of customization, at least as regards decals.  Just the default set, and I'm running into problems with those.

The stripes simply don't conform properly to the curves, both on the hood and on both bumpers.  I don't have decal set at my disposal right now, but based on what I've heard (regarding the Testors product, at any rate), it's really just a dilute acetic acid solution, which I could make myself using distilled vinegar.

Is that all there is to it?  I'm not looking for something to fix the decals in place; I can use a light spray of gloss clear to do that.  I need something that will "shrink" or otherwise curve the decals onto the underlying surface.  I'm not in a financial position to expand on my materials beyond what I have now, at any rate.  

My alternative action is to remove the decals altogether and gift the model with just a black gloss paint job.

Thoughts?

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, November 7, 2017 11:55 AM

Yes, you are right, most setting solutions are acetic acid.  However, there are also decal solvents.  The setting solutions are primarily wetting agents that help the decal snuggle down and adhere well to the paint or plastic.  However, if there are compound curves, or the curve radius is very sharp, you may need a sovent.  Solvaset and Micro Sol are a couple of the brands.  Some folks always use solvents from the start, but I recommend not using solvents unless you really need it.  You can really mess up the decals if you are not careful when using solvents. I always use the setting solution, and only if the decal still does not conform do I reach for the solvent.  And then, I take great care with it.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    November 2017
Posted by Byff on Tuesday, November 7, 2017 2:02 PM

Cool, thanks.  I think I have some Micro Sol among my supplies...in a storage warehouse 15 miles from here.  It will be a while before I can get into them.

I'd hoped to finish this project before the weekend, but it now looks as though I'll have to box the Shelby up and complete it later.  (Although removing the top and hood decal is starting to look pretty attractive too.)

Thanks again.

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, November 7, 2017 2:58 PM

And don't expect miracles. If the curve causes a standing wrinkle, solvent won't fix it.

Once the decal is dry and setput a little piece of tape right next to the decal on the open end of the wrinkle. Carefully cut across the decal with a knife or a razor blade. Apply a little solvent and ftz down the two ends of the decal so that one overlays the other and they lie flat. Bettr'n nuttin.

I generally model with single edge razor blades as they are a lot sharper that exacto blades.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

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