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1/16th scale Kenworth W 924 S.A.R. ( S - Shortened, A - Australian, R - Righthand drive

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  • Member since
    June 2012
Posted by Compressorman on Thursday, November 7, 2019 5:31 AM

I know that this is an old post but I just stumbled upon it. I felt that I needed to say that this is really some fantastic scratchbuilding! My hat is off to the builder, well done and wow!


  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Graham Green on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 5:26 AM

A few details about the Haulmark Low Loader

All the 'chain dogs' are hand made and work as per the full sized ones do, even had to solder every link in each chain, to stop them from opening, when you apply pressure with the chain dog.

Ramps fold up and down and you can push them out to the width of the widened deck as well.

The side wings are fully working and you can swing them out to expand them and the opposite to contract them, the floor boards can then be removed and placed out onto the opened side wings, this extends the width of the Low Loader, as per the full sized vehicle does.
The reason for this is to be able to load either a wheeled, or tracked vehicle, that is wider than the normal 8ft 2inch width of the deck on the low loader. By expanding the Low Loader with the side wings, it allows the load to remain on the deck, it's a bit embarrassing if/when a load slides off the deck of a Low Loader,  it’s  a lot of work to get it back onto the Low Loader, eh.

The neck has a fully oscillating greasy plate, with a two pin placement, which is used for adjusting where the weight of the load is situated.
Basically, everything that was on the Low Loader and Dolly, is on these models of them.

The Cat excavator is only a Bruder kids toy that has been reworked to get rid of the toy look, nothing special, just had to take a bit of time for the conversion.











  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Graham Green on Saturday, July 20, 2019 4:51 AM

Once the SAR was finished, then onto the dolly and finished that, followed by the Low Loader, a Haulmark 4 row of 4 with a two metre spread between the second and third axle.

You can clearly see the Goth suspension in one of the photos, it all works as per the full sized vehicle.

A few photo's showing the cab with doors that open and close along with the dash that is fulling converted to right hand drive.

Now just how many model trucks, have you ever seen where you can remove a wheel exactly the same way as on a full sized truck ?

Final photo is at the Victorian Auto Modelling Championship held by the Ballaarat Model Truck and Car Club way back in 1993.

The grey Acid Tank is the load that I had on the low loader for many, many years.

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Graham Green on Thursday, July 18, 2019 5:03 AM

Once everything has been made and test fitted, then and ONLY then, do I start to paint anything. The reason is very simple, if everything is not 100% corrrect and I have to keep making bits, now if it's already been painted, you can make a stuff up and it could/will ruin some of the painted bit's you have already splashed paint onto.

Much easier to paint it last and avoid any disasters, then when it's dry, start to carefully assemble all the bit's in the correct sequence.

The paint used is ordinary house enamel, nothing special at all and applied with an el-cheapo air brush, or if needed, I used a paint brush.

Couple of photo's, first shows everything pre-made and pre-assembled ready for painting, then after painting and starting to assemble the prime mover.



  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Graham Green on Wednesday, July 17, 2019 3:39 AM

Now for the 2 x 4 Dolly and 4 x 4 Low Loader, both of these required me to make drawings of them before I could start on them so technically scratchbuilt.

The tyres are from any Iterari kit, just the two piece hard plastic tyres used on both. The 5 spoke spiders are from some Testors kit from long, long ago, so I had to make every hub from sheet Acrylic to get the two different scales to work for me. Lots of turning to get them ALL correct, took a long time to do them, but they look OK once painted.


Didn't take many photos during the construction of these two items, so will have to show a couple of shots of the finished items.

First is the drawing for the Dolly, then a drawing for the Low Loader and last drawing is of the special Suspension details called a "Goth Suspension". The reason this was used is that another Low Loader, of the same deck length and wheelbase length, both made by the same manufacture, was a pain in the proverbial A&$#, when you were dragging it around. It only had 4 springs per side and if you hit a grid going a bit quick, the third and fourth axle spring ends would pop out of the rocker boxes and you were stuck on the side of the road with two jacks pushing the spring ends back into the rocker boxes.

You soon learnt not to hit grid's too quick, not after that first experiance underneath the float, jacking away to get it back into working order. So the second Low Loader had that Goth suspension fitted to it, a grid now could be traversed at 60 MPH fully loaded and maybe way overloaded too, difference of chalk and cheese, dragging either of those two floats around the countryside.

Then a photo showing the fully operational Goth suspension on the model, followed by a shot of the model Low Loader widen out. The Low Loader can be widened from scale 8ft,  to scale 12ft, for wider loads if needed, exactly the same as the original Low Loader could be widened.







  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Graham Green on Tuesday, July 16, 2019 5:08 AM

A couple more photos showing what work was done to this model.

First is the front end which shows the Air Conditioner Radiator mounted in front of the normal engine radiator.
The white bit across the front of the chassis is the backing plate for the Bullbar, the Bullbar is fitted to the backing bar, where it hinges forward when you can pull out the towing pin, then unscrew two eye bolts to allow the Bullbar to tilt forward. This then allows the bonnet to tilt forward as well.

Next photo shows some of the work required to get the W model bonnet to look like a bonnet from an S.A.R. The bits for the bonnet from out of the box, are the blue pieces, you can see where it had to be chopped to get the extra bits fitted into it, to slope the top of the bonnet, the white bit down the middle, is to allow the bonnet to be widened, so as to fit onto the cab.

The quarter guards needed a bit of attention as well, I had to chop out that small section and reverse it, glue it back into place and get rid of the ugly seams. The reason that had to be done, is the Air Cleaners are positioned directly above that cut out on each side of the cab, without that bit reversed, you would not be able to get the air cleaner element out of the body of the air cleaner.

Both the cab doors were able to be opened as well, made special brass two piece full length piano hinges to suit the cab and doors. That was very tricky operation but they both work and will never break or fall off.





  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Graham Green on Monday, July 15, 2019 4:42 AM

After reworking the rear end then I just had to make the front end steerable, easy enough to do and even changed the steering from left hand to right hand. It would have looked stupid if I did not change it to right hand drive, eh. If you have a few reference photos of what your attempting to do then all you have to do is copy whats on the photos.


Next photo shows what has been done to the chassis, the original kit chassis is Black, so all the white bits were made and fitted to the chassis. The clear bits are turned Acrylic and made into brake drums, the wheels just fitted over the drums nicely, like on a real truck.




Bought one of the first CAT 3406 motors that Colin Grey cast in resin, one of the very few things I didn't make, only had to alter it from  a CAT 3406A , into a Cat 3406B motor. Added quite few details to the motor to give it some realism, had to draw the line on how much detail I added, or the motor would have been covered in far too much junk. Some times just enough is better, eh.



A couple of photos showing the right hand and left hand sides, the fuel tanks are electrical conduit turned to the required size. Six spoke spiders are just slipped on into place, along with the tyres fitted to the rims.



Next three photos show some of the bits that are to be attached to the model once they are painted. For those that are wondering how to make doors open and shut, check out the full length brass hinges that had to be made in the second photo. Third photo shows some of the extra detail that had to be added inside the cab and other bits that were required.



Next two photos show the right hand dash and overhead dash as well.



These next two show what I did to the exhaust, made it from three pieces of aluminium.  First photo shows the exhaust surround/shroud being drilled, it's made from a thin sheet of polished ally, that was originally from an Off-Set printer. It needed 1260 holes drilled in exact sequence to look correct, this was the third attempt at getting it right. Then turned the actual muffler and then turned and bent the exhaust stack.



A few more bits that were required, new longer air horns, air intake covers and reworked air cleaners.




Next the step treads, tried to make them from Acrylic but most of the work was on the top suface so they bowed when all the presure was relieved in the Acrylic sheet, whilst milling it to shape, so made them from Polystyrene sheet. They bowed a bit, but could be coaxed back into shape quite easily.



The extra lights that had to made, the two top ones with black surrounds are to be fitted to the Bullbar, they are Bulllights, they are made as a three piece unit and even had the actual light lense highly polished and made it look like a big globe was in the lens. Then the tail lights, I used broken bits of tail lights I picked up around the yard, or out on the highway. I reworked these coloured small bits of plastic into the three piece tail lights, that were on the actual truck.



Think that should do for today. :-)



  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Graham Green on Saturday, July 13, 2019 10:51 PM

Along with re-making the rear end and turning it into a 6 rod suspension, the model required different wheels other than the ten studs that came with the kit, think 6 spoke spiders.

There were NO aftermarket bits freely available back when this was made, so you just had to use your brain to make your own bits.

The web was in its infancy way back then, not like today, when you need some bit for a model and now you just hop on the web and hey presto, the bit arrives at your door a few days later. The modellers of today are just spoiled for choice and they don’t seem to have the skill’s or inclination to have a go at making stuff themselves. It is a shame that it’s come down to this, just buying all you’re extras that somebody else has made and your sticking it onto the model the same as a kit bit.

So once again out with the pencil and paper to draw up what was required, I used the ten stud wheels and cut the centres out of them so I now had a rim that would fit the kit tyres nicely.

Started on the 6 spoke spiders by making a backing plate and then stuck on the spokes of the spiders as per the drawing, for both rear and front wheels.
Added the centres from the kit wheels and then into the lathe to turn everything to the correct shape required.
OK, once again, they are NOT 100% absolute miniature copies of the original wheels, but “ if it looks right, then it probably is “, so no need to fuss and bother getting hot under the collar to try to get everything absolutely perfect. Now that they are finished, they look about as close as  —  "F^*#"  — is to swearing.

I belonged to a model club back then and some ‘turkey’ saw what I was doing and he reckoned that it would be impossible to add wheel nuts and dog cleats, so you could take off any wheel  from the model and then replace it, just like on a real truck.

The Challenge was accepted ———— I thought about it for a while and came up with a method of doing just that.

First photo is of the drawing required, then a couple of photos showing what it took to make the 6 spoke spiders and dog cleats and a photo showing a wheel removed from the model, even made a miniature Lightburn bottle jack as well. The screw adjust out of the jack body, just like the real jack.





Check out the wheel nuts and dog cleats along with the hammer, wheelbrace and jack positioned under the front axle. Click on this photo and then go for the expanded view.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Saturday, July 13, 2019 4:21 PM

Well done!


To see build logs for my models:


  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Far Northern CA
Posted by mrmike on Saturday, July 13, 2019 2:00 PM

That is one heck'a truck! Thanks for taking the time to post additional pictures and build notes.

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Saturday, July 13, 2019 10:46 AM

That is an impressive build. Really well done. Super realistic.


On the bench: Alot !

On Deck: Alot more !


  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Graham Green on Friday, July 12, 2019 11:08 PM

Here’s something that you don’t see on the 16th scale Kenworth’s, — a Six Rod rear suspension. This is what makes ’it’ a W 924 series, each different number of the W models and K models, corresponds to the different rear ends fitted to that series of Kenworth. You can get a W 921, a W 922, a W 923, a W 924 and a W 925, you get the same Rear End numbers again in the K series. If you want to know what each number stands for, then do a Google for ‘Kenworth rear end numbers’ and you’ll soon have your eyes opened.

The 16th scale Peterbuilts and Kenworths, all have the Air bag suspension moulded onto the chassis rails, but I needed a six rod rear end, as that’s what was fitted to the truck I was attempting to make a model of.
So I had to get quite a bit of information regarding dimensions, along with lots of photos showing what went where, draw it all to scale and then start to make it.

If you apply yourself to the task at hand, then anything is possible, make sure you get lot’s of reference material, draw it all to scale, then just make all the bits you require as per your drawing.

First thing to do was cut away the Air bag suspension, repair any holes or defects that are now in the chassis rails from where you chopped it apart.
Once you have the chassis rails clean, then your ready to start re-building the new rear suspension, just get into it. If you have done your own drawing then you’ll soon know just where to start and what follows along as you go.
If you run into any problems along the way, it’s real easy to chop off the wrong bit’s you’ve added and start again, so NO big deal if you stuff it up, eh.
Re-used the radius rods that came with the kit, a bit of work was required to get all the bits lined up correctly, before glueing it all together, so a bit of time and care needs to be taken, to get it to look correct.

It does NOT have to be 100% totally accurate,  as most modelling is —  “ if it looks right, then it probably is ”.
If it looks like crud, then chop it off and start again, remember, that it’s only  bit’s of plastic you’re playing with.

First pic is of the drawing I had to do for the 6 rod suspension, then the actual 6 rod suspension I fitted to the model.




  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Graham Green on Thursday, July 11, 2019 8:12 PM


Wow!  Nice job and some fine surgery.  Sharp


Sure is a lot of "surgery" been done to it, needed a heck of a lot of Modifying to get it to look like it is.


It is only a Modified kit, or, if you want to call it, a "Highly Modified" kit, but it is NOT scratchbuilt at all. OK, I had to make numerous items for it, but it can not be called anything but a Modified kit.


The only two scratchbuilt items are the 2 X 4 Dolly and the 4 X 4 Low Loader, these required me to have to make drawings before I could start on them. Had to haunt the trailer manufacture 'Haulmark' in Brisbane, before they would allow me to have some workshop drawings, so I could convert them back to 1/16th scale.

The low loader is very strongly constructed out of sheet styrene, as per the drawings for the full sized vehicle, when it was early in the construction stage with completed  chassis rails from stem to stern and the cross members fitted, I placed it on the floor and then stood on the deck and it didn't break, OK, it bowed a bit, but, NO breakage of the styrene. The GOTH suspension on the Haulmark Low Loader is fully operational, as per the full sized vehicle, you can rock it back and forth and watch all the transfer rods changing/transfering the weight from the front axle to the rear axle.

The tyres on both are the 1/24th Itelari two piece hard plastic variety, the 5 spoke spiders are from a very old Testors 1/25th kit from somewhere. The rest of them are just made from sheet styrene, aluminium axles, wooden decking and where needed, used some sheet acrylic, turned to the required size making what I required.


The load on the low loader is just a modified Bruder kids toy, bought the large excavator, pulled it apart and made some new bits to make it look less like a kids toy.


 Click on the picture and then go for the expanded view.

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Thursday, July 11, 2019 6:21 AM

Wow!  Nice job and some fine surgery.  Sharp



Ain't no reason to hang my head, I could wake up in the mornin' dead 

  • Member since
    March 2014
1/16th scale Kenworth W 924 S.A.R. ( S - Shortened, A - Australian, R - Righthand drive
Posted by Graham Green on Thursday, July 11, 2019 2:21 AM

It started life as a box full of pre-formed polystyrene bits and pieces, as a 1/16th scale Kenworth W 900, long wheel based American left hand drive truck.

In Australia we don't have such long wheel bases on Prime Movers as in America, different road rules require different specced trucks, so I had to do a lot of converting to get it to look like an iconic truck that was only made in Australia at that time.

This model was built between early 1987 and late 1991, took approximately 4 and a half years  from start to finish it, so it's an oldy, but still worth having a look, just to see what was done to this model and maybe a few hints could be picked up.


Took to it with a razor saw and added lot's of different bits and removed quite a few bits as well.

 So many things were done to it that it would take a list too bloody long to write out all the different details, so a simpler way is to describe what I did NOT touch at all.

Three chassis crossmembers were left as per the kit, the overhead marker lights weren't touched, didn't alter the chrome grill, or the chrome names on the side of the bonnet and the chrome twin headlight surrounds are as per the kit and the ten tyres are as they came from the box of bits.

I used a full sized truck as reference material to make this model, tried to copy everything that I could from the truck and added it to the model. The paint job is a variant on the original truck's paint job, they had three paint schemes/ideas to go with and the paint job I did, was their second choice.


Lot's more info if anybody is vaguely interested ---------------------- 


I do hope a FaceBook link is OK, if not, then I'll have attempt to upload dozens of photo's.






Click on this photo and then go for the expanded view.


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