Future -> Sand -> Polish -> Wax = good?

yellow15 wrote:

..., should i sand then polish (using polish compound) and wax it to make it shinny?

Basically the answer really depends on how smooth the surface is. If it is really rough, then sanding might be in order. If it's not too bad then a simple polishing compound should do the trick or maybe even a cleaner wax. If it's nice and smooth, a good coat or two of wax maybe all that is needed. But what do I know, I never used Future. I have used different clear coats though. LOL

Lynn Livingston wrote:

I always have liked that "luster" look as compared with todays more popular "wet" look. Don't get me wrong, I like the "wet" look also. I'm just a little nostagic about a great luster on a massaged paint job. That could be because I was an automotive painter that started in the late seventies and we worked so much with lacquer over the years. Lynn Livingston

Lynn, have you tried an enamel paint job, just following it up with a polishing compound/cream such as Mequiar's Scratch X, then waxing with something like Mequiar's Gold Class Paste? If you liked the hand rubbed luster achived from a nice lacquer job, you'd love the results from this process. I prefer this method over clear coating any day. 

.

I just finished my first attempt with Future wax. I normally used catalysed urethane clear.
I wanted to try the future because it is a water based material.
I was kinda' dubious about it, but it turns out I was fairly impressed with the ease of application and subsequent finishing ease.
I too used the Micro Mesh polishing system like I do on solvent based paint and/or clear. It was VERY easy to finish to a decent luster compared to a catalysed clear. The finished product seems to me very much like rubbed lacquer. I always have liked that "luster" look as compared with todays more popular "wet" look. Don't get me wrong, I like the "wet" look also. I'm just a little nostagic about a great luster on a massaged paint job.
That could be because I was an automotive painter that started in the late seventies and we worked so much with lacquer over the years.
Anyway, the future system has some benefits to offer over solvent based clear. Some are: more economical, ecologically safer and friendlier (I use a paint booth inside my home during winter months), ease of fininishing process/s, faster through curing, repairability, and very easily recoverable if maladies strike.
Based on my first use I'd say I have some to learn about application techniques. For clearing I use a Paacshe VL with #5 tip. This provides optimal performance with solvent based high solid urethane (automotive type in other words) formulations. However, I could not get the furture applied with any reasonable smoothness. I tried different settings on the gun, adjusted air pressure, fluid flow thorugh the gun and viscosity of the clear. None of these adjustments rendered an acceptable (to me) film layer. Obviously I've got some learning to do.
Although I did not get the results I was hoping for during application, it was easily remedied by the sanding/buffing after letting it dry for two days. BTW, I applied three coats instead of my normal two to be sure I COULD fix the texture problem without resorting to refinishing. Even with three coats I did not exprience any appreciable detail loss on a 1:24 '92 Chevy P.U.
Hopes this helps and good luck!

Lynn Livingston

I just use Testors clear enamel, polish it out using a Micro-Mesh polishing kit and Novus #2 polish.
Lee

I wait at LEAST a day before doing anything to Future. I polish it some, but I don't sand it after aplying the Future.