SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Windows and Window openings

960 views
0 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Windows and Window openings
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Saturday, May 22, 2021 8:57 AM

Here's one That's common;

       You buy Company"Xs" model of a 56 Chevy, Later on you buy Company "Bs" model of the same car. Why? Different Wheels, Speed equipment and so on. But somehow the model doesn't look quite right. Could it be because the plastic used for the windows is not optically clear or that's it's sitting to deep in the body?

    I went through my stash and discovered something I am sure you all know by now, or should. When you put the fuzzy windows on the 69 Riviera by AMT you'll see it. Then You take the Opticallty Clear separate windows for the Imaii Lamborghini Countach And drop them in place and they look like the real car's windows in terms of fit and finish. 

     Aha! The little light buld goes off. Yes, my friend both the thickness and clarity of American made model cars has always been an issue. Then there's the depth that they sit on the finished model. I measured the distance one time just for kicks.

      On AMT's version of the last Corvair model they did. I owned one at the time. On the real car there was a depth from body surface to the window glass in the windsheild of about 1". On the model this same distance was about 1/16" of an inch. Blow the model up to full size and the windshield would've sat three inches deep in the body.

      This has always been the bane of Car modelers everywhere. There are ways to fix it. But I wouldn't recommend them to the modeler just starting out, I used to take thin styrene, From packages, to get the clarity in the glass. Now later, After about fifty models. I use Evergreen .010 Sheet styrene. I read an article in the now Defunct, Scale Auto about how to correct this problem

       Yes! there is a way! You create, very carefully a channel around the opening in the model from the inside and when it looks right from outside you then cut and install your "glass" to check the fit leaving enough gap to compensate for the paint, and then finish the body. Chrome the window frames if they are chrome on the real one, then install the glass into that beautiful Body you've just corrected! 

        This created another problem though. The Package shelf in the Tub and the shape of the Dash had been molded to allow the interior to help hold in the " Glass". This is why it is not recommended to neophyte modelers. It can get tricky. This is a holdback from the days that the interior tub, and the " Glass" were made to complement each other and they were mounted around pegs and held in place by retainer rings or heat welding of the posts that they aligned with.

       Anyway I just thought I would remind you of the fact we have come a long way, but we still have a long way to go. And I think this every time I look at the model I have of a Japanese Company's model of the Toyota Previa Van. I can even see the armrests on the inside from the opposite side! Through the rear quarter windows! and the inside detail on the tailgate from the front windshield!

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.