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Help on getting started

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Falun, Sweden
Posted by proosen on Tuesday, April 20, 2004 3:18 PM
Here it goes, some pictures of my braided hoses and the enging/gearbox-assembly so far. I think these are a big improvement in this otherwise excellent kit. Follow the link for some pictures of my work on this one and more. http://niclasproos.fotopic.net/

Niclas
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Falun, Sweden
Posted by proosen on Sunday, April 18, 2004 11:56 PM
Hi John!
The braided hoses was made of Plastructs hex-rods, a scrapped co-axial cord, thin solder, Tamiya clear blue and red and some super-glue.
I'll get some pictures of the engine and the hoses so you can se for your self what it looks like. It's a big improvment compared to thoose vinyl things, nothing beats the real thing!

Niclas
  • Member since
    February 2004
Posted by jyduchene on Sunday, April 18, 2004 6:07 PM
Niclas,

Thanks for the reply. I'm curious, what did you use for the scatch built braided hose? John
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, April 18, 2004 5:48 PM
I have a little trick that might also work for you...

I remove all parts from the spru before painting so i can sand and fill any defects in the plastic with putty. I then take a long piece of spru and cut the end of it flat. Then take a small dab of super glue and apply it to the tip of the spru. Then hold it to the back of the part you want to paint. The cool thing is you can manipulate the piece how ever you want to while painting and once the part is finished all you have to do is snap the spru stick off the part. Super glue will only hold to the spru stick and not your part so it will not be harmed. Just a little something i learned from my LHS.
  • Member since
    February 2004
Posted by jyduchene on Sunday, April 18, 2004 1:11 PM
Thanks for the replies. I know this is a big project and I also have a son, it will likely go very slowly. However I would like to use one technique I did not use in my y outh , patiients.

Thanks, John
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: New Zealand
Posted by nicholma on Sunday, April 18, 2004 2:25 AM
I think you have the answers already.

I assemble as many components as possible into semi-completed assemblies before painting. Definately take parts from the sprues before painting unless the join point to the sprue will be hidden in the final assembly.

I don't use CA type glue except on resin or white metal. For any plastic to plastic join its better to clean the contact points bac to the plastic although not essential unless there is stress of some point on the join. Where CA glues are used I have not found it necessary to clean the paint away. Its a personle preference I suppose, try it and see what works best for you.

Good luck with the project.
Kia ora, Mark "Time flies like the wind, fruit flies like bananas"
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Dahlonega, Georgia
Posted by lizardqing on Sunday, April 18, 2004 12:25 AM
Welcome to the forum. As far as question #1, I don't know. #2- I try to put anything that will be the same color and will not prevent further things from being assembled together prior to painting. Gives a chance to see anything that may need cleaning up after primering and prior to painting. Sometimes things have to be assembled seperate though depending on the kit. #3 - I put glue over paint all the time and have yet to have a model fall aprt. I use CA glue and not the testors stuff though so that may be a factor.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Falun, Sweden
Posted by proosen on Sunday, April 18, 2004 12:19 AM
Hi, and welcome back to a wonderful hobby!
I must say that you haven't choosen the easiest subject for your return. It's a wonderful model but it takes some work to finish. You might want to take a look at this before you start http://www.internetmodeler.com/1999/july/cars/mclaren.htm and get some useful tips and hints of how this baby is to put together. Now for your questions.
1. You don't need to use the same base coat as MCW's to the other paint brands, I don't use base coat's at all if the surface has a uniform color. Other than on the bodywork.
2. I normally take the parts from the trees, clean them up and remount them so that they woun't get any wounds in the paint whenI detach them again. sometimes I glue them back on the tree otherwise I use blue tack or double sticky tape to mount them on some cardboard, old toothbrush or whatever comes in handy.
3. As for the glue vs. paint it's all the same as in the old days. Paint and chrome must come of before glueing otherwise the parts will fall apart again. I would suggest to build as much as possible in sub assemblies of the items that should have the same color and then paint the whole thing.
For my McLaren I started scratchbuilding the braided hoses because I don't like the apperance of that vinyl stuff that comes in the box.
One very important thing on this one is to study the instructions real close because there is some things that needs to be done in the right order to even get them there. Please keep us updated on the progress, I will have to get mine out of the closet again. Maybe I'll be able to finish it before I get my pension Smile [:)] As I have two little boys taking most of my sparetime it doesn't happen all that much on my workbench.

Good luck!
Niclas
  • Member since
    February 2004
Help on getting started
Posted by jyduchene on Saturday, April 17, 2004 11:43 PM
I have been away from plastic modeling for 40 years. I recently purchased an airbrush and am practicing. I was fortunate to obtain an Accurate Minturaes McLaren M8B and this will be my "re entry vehicle" I have a few questions.

1. I have purchased MCW Lacquer McLaren orange paint and the grey Lacquer base coat. Should I use the same base coat for the rest of the kit which will likely be painted with tamyia or testors acrylic or enamel or is this base coat specific to lacquer?

2. Would you recommend painting the undercoat for the entire model while the parts are still on the spure? The alternate is to remove and clean up with blade and file before painting.

3. Years ago it was conventional wisdom to not paint the glue line or seam. However with an airbrush the beauty is a perfect painjob over the entire small piece. Do you scrape paint away from the glue seam or do modern glues allow one the glue over paint?

Any other suggestions would be welcome. I am looking forward to a long and slow build.

Thanks for your suggestions,

John
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