Just Purchased the Revell Visible V-8 Engine Kit

interesting model.  I really enjoyed building this. I ended up using the mineral oil as the lube. Really cool how this thing works just as it is supposed to.

The instructions sucked - no mention of how the fuel pump was to be installed

Actually, I have never heard of this model working other than Jim just now. So it might not be worth it to gum it up with lube.

Bill

For my visible quarter scale 426 Hemi, to avoid any "fogging", I used Testors glue for "Clear" plastic anywhere a piece of clear plastic needed gluing. I also used clamps and/or rubber bands to hold parts together until they dried. 

I would definitely stay away from vegetable oil as a lubricant! I kept things DRY by using graphite for the main bearings and con rods.

This was built probably ten years ago and it still running like new.

Ed Geary

the instructions state to lubricate the moving plastic parts with vegetable oil.

Is this the best way to go or does anyone have a recommendation for a better lubricant?

 

I will only be operating this model with the handcrank and won't be running it with a drill trying to get 3500 RPM's

 

Labelle makes a plastic-safe lubricating oil. It's used by many model railroaders.

Sounds like vegetable oil is a good way to go to me.  Other oils that you would think of as more of a machine type lubricant might hurt the plastic, especially the clear, polycarbonate plastic parts.  Mineral oil (from the stomach medications part of the grocery store) might also be a good choice because its completely clear and won't darken over time like vegetable oil might.

the instructions state to lubricate the moving plastic parts with vegetable oil.

Is this the best way to go or does anyone have a recommendation for a better lubricant?

I will only be operating this model with the handcrank and won't be running it with a drill trying to get 3500 RPM's

Thank you sir, you have been a great help

GMorrison

An old sign maker taught me that dried up epoxy can be removed with true turpentine spirit.

 

Bill

 

Cool advice, Bill!  I had always used Xylene for removing epoxy and polyester resins, but that's obviously a no-go on plastic, because it eats that too.  Turpentine would be a lot more friendly.

Ed Geary

great suggestions, thanks.

 

One more question... how do you determine you are pouring out equal parts from both bottles.

 

I'm sure this thread will be a great help to someone else in the future

 

I just eyeball it.  Squirt out a little blob from one bottle onto your mixing pallette, and then put an equal-sized blob from the other bottle right next to it.  When you mix the two blobs together, you'll probably see a little bit of a swirling pattern as you mix.  When you no longer see that swirling pattern, your epoxy should be thoroughly mixed.  Just make sure to squirt stuff from the bottles one at a time and cap one bottle before you uncap and use the other.  That will keep you from accidentally mixing up your two caps.  If you mix up the two caps it will set off a reaction that will slowly kill both bottles...the Amazon review section on this epoxy is loaded with the "This is junk!  It just hardened all by itself in the bottle!" tales of operator error.  Just be careful not to cross-contaminate your bottles and you won't end up like those people.  

An old sign maker taught me that dried up epoxy can be removed with true turpentine spirit.

Bill

great suggestions, thanks.

One more question... how do you determine you are pouring out equal parts from both bottles.

I'm sure this thread will be a great help to someone else in the future

Just usually use a toothpick...the same one I use to mix it with.  Just be careful not to get any of it in the threads of the nuts.  If you apply a tiny bit of epoxy to the outside perimeter of the nuts (maybe thread a screw into the nut part-way and use that as a holder), when you push them into the recesses, the excess epoxy will be pushed up and out of the recess, instead of it being pushed down and underneath the nut (and up into the threads) like it would if you apply the epoxy in the recesses. 

Eaglecash, ordered it.  What did you use to apply the epoxy to the model parts?

There is also the epoxy kits that look like two side-by-side hypodermics (Though I recommend cutting out the connecter between the two plungers). And, they come in several different cure times, depending on the intended use.

I bought mine at Amazon.  Its $17.05 there for the two bottles.  They're big bottles, so they'll last a life-time.  I've been using mine for years and still have more than 2/3 of it left.  

Thank you Eaglecash.  What is the cost on Devcon and where did you purchase it?  What I've seen it seems rather expensive

The Devcon gives you a good 20 minutes of working time.  Full cure in 24 hours.  Even if you had to mix more, its not a big deal to do so.  Its really easy to use.

after mixing the 2 part epoxy, how long does it take to harden?

I'm afraid I may only be able to set two nuts before I have to mix more. This engine has 34 of them.

Eaglecash867

...keeps it from accidentally getting tracked everywhere on your bench.

Any superglue containing cyanoacrylate, AFAIK, has the unfortunate effect of clouding permanently any nearby clear parts. No doubt there are ways around that and I could name one or two, but 2 part epoxy is very straightforward to use, as Eagle described it.

Bill

Hmmmm....I'm thinking the Bondic may be the answer

No such thing that I'm aware of, except for maybe the Bondic UV-cured glue.  No working time on that though once you hit it with the UV light, so its going to depend on the situation.

The Devcon epoxy I have comes in two bottles, so its very easy to dispense precise amounts with it, and no chance of cross-contamination between the tips like what can happen with the syringe-type dispensers.  I just get a pack of sticky notes as mixing pallettes.  Once you're done using the mixed epoxy, you just peel off that sticky note and throw it away...keeps it from accidentally getting tracked everywhere on your bench.

is there a recommended epoxy that isn't two part?

I'll also vote for epoxy.  Devcon 2-Ton Epoxy is great stuff with a decent working time to allow you to make sure everything is in alignment before it cures.

how about JB Weld Light curing super glue?

Definitely do not use Superglue.

Any styrene cement won't work either.

Expoxy sounds like the right choice to me.

Bill

Hi Ed;

     I would use the U.V. glue .It does Not fog the surrounding areas. Whatever you do though. Be very careful concerning irregularities around the sprue attachment points and make sure the surfaces are very cleanly finished. Any irregularity, especially in the Moving part close areas will do you in.