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1/25 AMT 1968 Ford Shelby Mustang GT500 WIP

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5 replies
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  • Member since
    November 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Sunday, July 9, 2023 5:36 PM

Nice work ! And the paint is looking great from here.

fox
  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Narvon, Pa.
Posted by fox on Sunday, July 9, 2023 5:25 PM

Very nice build! Good photos too!

One suggestion. Next time you want to dechrome a part, put it in ordinary household bleach. Doesn't destroy the part. Might take overnight soaking but does a great job and it's cheap and safe to use.

Stay safe.

Jim Captain

 Main WIP: 

   On the Bench: Artesania Latina  (aka) Artists in the Latrine 1/75 Bluenose II

I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here.

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Sunday, July 9, 2023 4:28 PM

Really nice work so far.  Ya that engine bay is pure fiction.  Still looks like you'll have a nice Mustang replican when your done.

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    January 2021
  • From: Somewhere near Chicago
Posted by Teenage Modeler on Sunday, July 9, 2023 8:52 AM

siiirhd88
I like the blue body color and the darker blue engine color is close to the color used in ’68.
 
As shown in your photo, the kit engine bay is nothing like the actual car.  The later Revell ’67 and ’68 Mustang and ’67 Shelby kits are more accurate, but the engine bays are molded in the body and not on the chassis.  I think the later kits also include the single “export brace” used on the Shelby that replaced the two supports from the firewall to the top of the shock towers.  
 
The ’68 GT-500 with a 428 Police Interceptor engine had a natural aluminum intake manifold, but the 428 Cobra Jet engine used in the GT-500 KR used a near identical iron intake manifold painted engine color.  The GT-500 used the COBRA lettered oval air cleaner while the GT-500 KR used the round air cleaner with a rubber seal that fitted to a plenum on the underside of the hood.  The KR air cleaner was different than the flapper type of air cleaner used on the 428 CJ Mustangs.
 
Good job on painting the interior details but the woodgrain on the interior panels and steering wheel was a darker shade of brown.  Only the rear part of the steering wheel rim was woodgrain, the front part interior color.
 
The kit is best shown with the hood closed, ignoring the engine bay differences.  The “10 Spoke” kit wheels look like the wheels available in ‘66, and are incorrect for a ’68.  I think I found a correct set of ’67 – ’68 10 Spoke wheels in a Toyota 2000 GT kit.
 
We’ve owned a 427 powered ’68 GT-500 for 40 years, still hiding in the garage.    

Bob

 

Thanks for the information that you've provided, and it's awesome that you do have a real life GT-500 in your garage.

Anyway, I do think that this is the KR version, because of the aformentioned Circular Air Cleaner with the circular Rubber seal. The instructions did have the Oval Air Cleaner but I didn't put it on since I built the engine differently than the instructions said (you'd have to build the engine a different wayto install the oval air cleaner) so I stuck with the circular one. 

The engine bay was molded to the chassis, instead of having an actual one molded to the body or a separate piece. 

Made you Look

 

  • Member since
    September 2020
  • From: Pa. and NC
Posted by siiirhd88 on Sunday, July 9, 2023 4:50 AM
I like the blue body color and the darker blue engine color is close to the color used in ’68.
 
As shown in your photo, the kit engine bay is nothing like the actual car.  The later Revell ’67 and ’68 Mustang and ’67 Shelby kits are more accurate, but the engine bays are molded in the body and not on the chassis.  I think the later kits also include the single “export brace” used on the Shelby that replaced the two supports from the firewall to the top of the shock towers.  
 
The ’68 GT-500 with a 428 Police Interceptor engine had a natural aluminum intake manifold, but the 428 Cobra Jet engine used in the GT-500 KR used a near identical iron intake manifold painted engine color.  The GT-500 used the COBRA lettered oval air cleaner while the GT-500 KR used the round air cleaner with a rubber seal that fitted to a plenum on the underside of the hood.  The KR air cleaner was different than the flapper type of air cleaner used on the 428 CJ Mustangs.
 
Good job on painting the interior details but the woodgrain on the interior panels and steering wheel was a darker shade of brown.  Only the rear part of the steering wheel rim was woodgrain, the front part interior color.
 
The kit is best shown with the hood closed, ignoring the engine bay differences.  The “10 Spoke” kit wheels look like the wheels available in ‘66, and are incorrect for a ’68.  I think I found a correct set of ’67 – ’68 10 Spoke wheels in a Toyota 2000 GT kit.
 
We’ve owned a 427 powered ’68 GT-500 for 40 years, still hiding in the garage.    

Bob

  • Member since
    January 2021
  • From: Somewhere near Chicago
1/25 AMT 1968 Ford Shelby Mustang GT500 WIP
Posted by Teenage Modeler on Saturday, July 8, 2023 9:51 PM

Hello, all, I have been working on a car model for the past month and a half. Things are steaming along nicely, but I hae stumbled upon a few problems. I've finished painting the exterior except for the clear as well as finished the interior as well. Engine is nicely detailed. but not done yet. Primed the Chassis and Enginebay.

 

Anyway, here are some pictures. 

   I used TS-54 Light Metallic Blue as my basecoat, and I painted over White Tamiya X-2 for the Stripes, and it looks really awesome. Since I do not have any Bare Metal Foil for the trim, I just painted on some Chrome Silver Tamiya and it looks really good by itself. I loved how it turned out, but I have yet to add clear on top of it.

 

Here are some pictures of the Ford FE 428 Cobra Jet Engine:

So I painted the engine block blue by mixing some Tamiya Gloss Blue and Gloss White together, and it looks the part. Unfortunately, I feel that it's a bit dark, but it's not too problematic. 

The distributor I drilled out with my smallest drill bit and super glued Fishing Line through it. I used real pictures to know the firing order of the engine, and I glued it to its right place. I painted Gloss Red to pop out the wires, and not black because it would make it harder to see, red makes it much better to see and more aggressive. There is no air cleaner because I tried to strip the chrome off with acetone but the whole piece dissolved, so I designed a new one to 3d print but I do not have one. 

 

Here are the pictures of the Chassis:

 I added modifications to the chassis such as the rack and pinion (I think that's what it's called?) and brake/fuel lines as well. Here is the real picture, but it's upside down:

 

Here is the interior:

And the tires I also painted the letters with white to bring the detail out:

But here's the main problem that I've had with the engine bay. The real engine bay on the real car has a triangular support for the suspension, shown here:

But on the model, it is not present at all. Rather, the wheel wells can be seen protruding through the engine bay, and instead of a triangular post there, a semi circle is there instead.

 

 So here's the problem: in the picture on the top there is a large gap between the radiator wall and the suspension post, but in the model, there is very little gap.

That's not a huge problem, except for the battery. 

 

 The Battery is on the corner of the radiator wall, and as you can see, it's attatched lengthwise with its length facing the side of the engien bay.

Here is a picture of me trying to fit it in:

 

 The gap is too small, so I can't really fit it in the engine bay. My options are to either cut the battery diagonally so it fits with the wheel well, or I cut the actual wheel well, but it's going to be messy. Maybe do both. I don't know, but maybe you guys can give me some advice.

 

Anyway, that's pretty much it. Sorry for making the post too long, but I hope you guys enjoyed reading this.

 

TM

 

 

 

 

 

Made you Look

 

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