Glueing tips

for the clear parts, I'm sticking with clear coat paint.

you can use twist ties with the cement for roll cages they work better then rubber bands
shawn

Thanks, CRASHER. I'll do some searching and see if I can find it.

Ray

heylonghair (I like that) -
Bison is the manufacturer (like Bostick?) - I was put onto it by a guy in Florida who always refers to it as Bison Kit. Maybe that is what it is sold as in the U.S. so you should probably be looking for the same name in Canada. It's pretty wicked stuff and has to be applied to both surfaces and then left for 25 mins or so. Strings badly so you have to be a bit careful with it but peels off OK if you mess up.

CRASHER,

What type of glue is that Bison? I've never seen that before. If it works as well as you say, I'd like to try it out.

Ray

Hey buddy,

There are some GREAT tips in here! You brought up a good question!
Here's what I use:
a. Super Glue(a.k.a. Zap-a-gap, super glue gel, krazy glue, whatever...)
b .Testors Cement(not used very often, but if you want a good STRONG bond, its worth the wait for it to set)
c. Elmer's glue(for canopies/windsheild glass)

The super glue is great because it bonds in seconds(but can be tricky, so make sure the parts are aligned!)

Testor's Cement just needs either a jig, clothespin, or plain old rubber bands to hod it in place while it dries(at least 5-6 hours--don't use too much or your'll warp the plastic!)

And lastly the Elmer's--IT DRIES CLEAR!! Doesn't leave a haze(super glue can do that), and if you mess up it just pops right off! The only thing you have to do is be patient enough to let it dry.

Hope this helps!

Carlos

I'd go along with everything said before - particularly what 'ekrub' says about using TOO much glue. If you think the glue is coming out of the nozzle too fast put a glob of it onto a piece of scrap cardboard or somesuch and apply to the model with a cocktail stick - that way you won't get too much on small parts.

Applying small PE pieces such as badges can be difficult especially if you need to reposition them (I usually do) - clear lacquer such as the Humbrol enamel stuff works just as well for these without messing up your paintwork.

PE pieces that have to be bent can be tricky and a good contact adhesive is as good as any especially if near clear screens etc. I use Bison super strength which won't fog clear parts and any excess can be peeled away, again with a cocktail stick (don't use metal tools because they will scratch) .

Happy modelling

Use Microscale Krystal Klear for your clear plastic parts. It also is a VERY powerful adhesive (die cast metal to plastic, metal to metal, etc.) You can also thin this stuff with water to about the consistantcy of milk and brush it on old decals that may break when you are trying to apply them. Sets in 15 minutes, fully cures and is clear after 12 hours. Tenax-7R liquid cement sets almost instantly. I apply my Tenax to the joint with a fine paint brush (the bristles on the brush get ruined for painting after several uses). Testors liquid cement, part # 3507 is great. More viscous than Tenax. I place a drop on a piece of paper and use a toothpick to transfer it to the part. Super Jet, medium viscosity Ca glue works well and will never craze or cloud a canopy or windshield if used spareingly.

Hope this helps,

Bill Albertson

Kerry,
the above answers are all good - I tend to use liquid glue for most all plastics, the CA stuff for PE, and for things like aircraft canopies, the white glue trick is great, but I have also used paint (the same color as the fuselage) and also Future (for well fitting windows). For windows that don't fit well, people will tell you to stay away from CA as it fogs the clear plastic, but either work very slowly with the CA using very tiny amounts, or dip the clear bits in Future - the fogging doesn't seem to happen as readily on Future coated parts.
Ekrub said it pretty well in his reply - TAKE YOUR TIME. Patience is a virtue - it'll also help build better models!

I use Testors Liquid Cement in the 4oz. black plastic bottle with the long tube. On the oil pan I would place a very small drop on the front and back of the pan then place them together. The pan should turn tacky where you placed the cement in about 5 minutes and harden completly in 30 minutes. When you look at the pan, if you think that it has not bonded enough, place the cement tube at the joint and carefully allow a small amout on the cement the joint. This cement will run down the joint in a capillary fashion. DO NOT use too much. Most beginers, as I once was myself, use WAY too much glue. Do not rush, take your time. I have some simple models that have taken me weeks or even months to complete. As for the canopy glue, I use Elmers White Glue, it takes about 24 hours to harden, but it hardens clear.
Hope that this has helped you some. Every modeler will tell you to take your time and not to rush. Also remember, do the BEST paint job that you can. A bad paint job can ruin a model. TAKE YOUR TIME.
You should really fill in your profile. You can check mine out for example, jusk click on the brown ekrub at the left. Ekrub

I use Tenax liquid cement... Testors tube cement... and CA.

The tTenax is for seams and places where there are larger areas of contact. The Testors for joining plastic parts where there is little contact... like cementing in a gear shift.

I use CA for attatching PE parts, and if I need it to harden quickly... like spark plug wires. So in those cases I use a CA Accelerant too.

I Use Testors Clear Parts Cement for windshilds etc.

I use liquid cement for the block, heads,intake and oilpan, all parts to be painted same color, otherwise iI use either crazy glue or 5 minute epoxy, on windows and headlights, etc I always use epoxy, and as far as how long to dry, depends on the glue. The longer you wait however, the better. Don't be in a rush, take your time, and you'll have better results. Hope this helps.
Lee