Painting Woes

Had you primed the car first?

The only thing that I could suggest would be to try and sand it as smooth as possible and then try sealing it and then repainting. Or you may have to strip the whole thing down and start again. Sorry, I don't have a quick and easy fix for ya. Actually, that's a 3 step system, isn't it? You will more than likely have to strip and repaint otherwise the paint won't blend properly, unless you can mask it in such a way that the seams will be in inconspicuous places. Sorry, to be the bearer of bad news. Maybe someone else will have a better suggestion.

Other than that you say it turned out great?! That's cool. I just recently discovered that paint up here in Canada and I'm dying to try it out. If you feel up to it why don't you give us a little more detailed play-by-play on exactly how you did it. I'm sure there are others out there who would like to give it a try also.

Good luck on repainting.

Ray

Thanks for the reply, Yes it is a 3 part system, and I think you hit it with the should have primed first. My thought was that the first coat is a flat black and I thought it very simular to primer, this however I beleive is when the plastic started crazing. With just the roof effected I should be able to sand just the roof out and also the rear deck lid and not have a problem with break lines in the paint. the deck lid also crazed and will be a pain to refinnish as it has a good sized spoiler on it to deal with. the rest of the car ie: sides ,hood and front & rear facia had no crazing on them. the paint effect is realy cool and looks good, also the house of color chameleon paints are pretty nice also, I saw some cars that had been done with these paints at Black Gold hobby shop in Arlington Tx.
Thanksagain for the input, I hope to have this reshot soon and will post wether it worked or not.

UPDATE: Though I haven't reshot my porsche yet I wondered if the paint /plastic without primer caused the crazing problem I encountered. So I took my long term project car, amt's 76 impala kit that was in need of paint, and did all prep work as with the porsche. paint came out great with no crazing evident. the plastic from the porsche seemed to be a little softer than the impala, I don't know if this had anything to do with the crazing but who knows. Also a quick warning for people buying these 3 part paint kits.CHECK ALL 3 CANS TO SEE IF THEY ARE ALL THERE!!!!!. I bought the dupli-color mirage paint at a k-mart going out of buisness sale, this was in mid winter and I just recentley wanted to use it when my wife noticed 2 of the can tops were the same. some butt head had taken the # 2 can ,the color one out of the set and put in another clear coat can in it's place. Went to local k-mart were they said so sorry, no recipt and after 90 days nothing they can do but have me call corperate and see what they will do. this paint is not cheap and even with the going out of buisness discount was still spendy. oh well lesson learned, now off to fix the porsche.

Always use primer with Krylon. It has a hotter base than hobby enamels, and will almost always craze bare plastic. I use Duplicolor sandable primer and scratch filler. Good stuff.
Lee

thanks for the input . Does the duplicolor need light coats or can you do a quick build up for covering body work? I have been building for years but just recently ,last few years. started to modify body work and such. painting is my favorite part of the build up and my wife just bought me a new aztek set, can't wait to break it in, but am going in for back surgury # 4 at end of week. hopefully after recoup time I can sit at the ol work bench and put some of the tips i've seen on the forum into use. Thanks again for the input.

I usually start with a mist coat or two, then a couple of wet coats. You will always get better results if you use more thinner coats than to try and put it on at once, especially using paints than can have adverse reactions with plastic, but it is true with any paint. Patience pays off!
Lee

Just a thought here Guys - you may be able to cut the work in sanding down the roof again by applying a sanding primer. This is a bit thicker than ordinary plastic primer and may fill the ridges for you. If the rest of the body is OK wrap it in tin foil up to the window line or wherever you want to redo and fix the line with masking tape and then spray away!!!
Hope this helps a little.

I have'nt tried non model primers yet ( like dupli-color, or any others other than testors primers) I know that when I don't get a good fog coat on first ,things usualy end up in the stripper tank to remove the paint and start over again. when i started in the auto body biz long long ago my first "team paint" with the boss was a rebuilt yellow cab, I had gotten such a buzz from the sealer that when the painting was done and the air cleared I had paint running off the rockers so thick it looked like a cave ceiling. punishment was to have to sand it all down and do all the prep work, then let the boss spray the color. Lesson learned about patiance and wearing the proper resperator while painting. since then my favorite part is the painting, thanks to all for the input. will post when the porsche is fixed.

YEP! 'skill is 95 percent preparation' - or so they tell me! One day I'll learn.