Changing color on metal model

A couple of added thoughts.

Once the metal body has been stripped it can be etched in vinigar. Soak the metal parts in vinigar for a few hours, rinse, let dry, and prime. It is still a good idea to use a self etching primer. Be careful if you use paints intended for real automobiles. These products are toxic and can be a health hazard. If you spray these paints do so in a well ventilated area.

As mentioned, Dupli-Color has touch-up paints in spray cans that match current auto paint colors. Testors Model Master paints have released a series of paints to match OEM colors for a number of model years in the 1950s, 60s, and 70s. These come in bottles and spray cans. These paints are less hazardous to your health. rangerj

Dulpi-Color is probably an etching primer. It is a high build, easy sanding primer. Top notch product.

! agree with all the above, although I have never used a etching primer just the Duplicolor automotive primer. I generally find that once the paint is removed from the diecast there is a lot of filing, sanding (wet and dry) and sometimes grinding as well as filling to get the surface as defect free as a plastic model.

leemitcheltree is exactly right. If you can break it down so that the all metal body is free, nuke it with stripper.

Etching primer is the key. It is expensive ($10+ for a spray can) and smells like death, but it will eat into the surface of the metal. Then, just finish it like you would any other model.

I've repainted many diecast models.....and there's a few things you might need to remember....
The metal of the body probably has a very high proportion of zinc.....so once the body has been stripped you should prime with an etch primer to improve paint adhesion to the metal surface. Use a primer formulated for non-ferrous metals......or check with a magnet on the body - if a magnet sticks, there's iron ferrite in the mix - in that case, use an etch primer formulated for steel.
I eliminate mold marks and surface defects with 600 grit wet or dry paper to give the surface a little more "tooth" for the paint.
I use automotive acrylics on diecasts - it dried very quickly and can be polished to a mirror shine using the stuff you'd use on your full sized car.
You can also go to your local auto parts store that sells paint and they can use their recipe book to mix just about any color that's ever been painted onto a car, past or present.
Good luck.

First, disassemble the model. Then there are many options to remove the paint. I use Castrol Super Clean automotive cleaner (at most auto parts stores). Get a sealable container, fill the container, add body, cover & wait. Usually a couple of hours does it. Then wipe off any remaining paint, rinse with soap & water, dry, prime & paint.

btw the Castrol is also safe for plastic. For metal you may have to go with a stronger paint remover.