SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

How do I get that smooth gloss finish?

924 views
7 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    November 2005
How do I get that smooth gloss finish?
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 31, 2005 4:45 AM
Hi fellow modellers!

I'll soon be building Tamiya's 1/24th BMW 320i Grp 5 touring car. It's the Jagermeister livery so the bodywork will be bright orange. Just need some tips on how to get a really nice smooth paint effect. I was going to use a few coats of matt white pimer from an aerosol and then once cured check for any bits of debris and lightly sand any affected areas. Then I was going to use Tamiya acrylic gloss orange using my airbrush (badger 200 single action). I've never airbrushed large areas before but have noticed when spraying smaller parts that the coat isn't perfect and sometimes I get that orange peel effect. Would I get a smoother finish using enamels for large surface areas?

Any tips from you guys would be really appreciated.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 31, 2005 5:11 AM
Lots of sanding with very fine sandpaper, multiple gloss coats, more polishing and maybe an application of modeling wax.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 31, 2005 6:40 AM
Thanks, I've got some micromesh but have never used it. Is their a specific way to use it or do i just start with the finest grade??
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 31, 2005 7:12 AM
Sorry, never used micro mesh as it is not available where I am.
OTOH, my local DIY shop carries sandpaper down to #8000( and possible more).
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Reno, Nevada, USA
Posted by Silverback on Monday, January 31, 2005 2:52 PM
Using MicroMesh or Millenium 2000:
Sand only in straight lines, with each sucessively finer grade sanded at 90ยบ to the last pass. Don't skip any grades in the series. Wet sand using plenty of clean water. Be sure to use the foam block to back the sanding film on larger areas.
For the prime coat, wet sand starting with the coarsest grit, then use each sucessive grit until you get to 3600. Wash and rinse the project and allow to dry thoroughly.
Spray on a mist coat, let dry, then spray on a second mist coat. The paint should be thinned enough to spray evenly, then only "dusted" on.
Wet sand, this time start with 2000 grit, and work up to 6000. Be careful not to knock the paint off of raised creases or moldings.
Dust with a tack rag and spray on a color coat, using a slightly more thinned mix. Two color coats with a day drying in between should be sufficient. Allow to dry for several days.
Wet sand, this time start with 3000 grit, and work up to 12000. Again, be careful not to knock the paint off of raised creases or moldings.
Dust with a tack rag and spray on a top coat, using a heavily thinned mix. Try to get it wet enough to level, but not so heavy as to run (some practice required here). Put the project in a dust free place and let it dry for a week.
If its not shiney enough, use Novus Plastic Polish and Final Treatment wax, applied with the softest cloth you can find.

Hey, I never said this would be easy

Phil Schenfeld

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 31, 2005 3:25 PM
Jeeez!

I'll keep you posted! on my progress and thanks for the info.
  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: returning to the FSM forum after a hiatus
Posted by jinithith2 on Sunday, February 6, 2005 7:11 PM
what about the Future stuff? I think that works as a "just waxed" and clean car
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 7, 2005 7:49 PM
As Silverback's post illustrates, there is generally a lot of work and time investment required to acheive the best possible finish.

Personally, I've found that if I can put on a FAIRLY smooth finish, I only need to carefully sand out the finish with 3200-12000 grit sanding cloths. If you get a run, a hair, lint, etc., in the fresh paint, you'll generally be sanding it out when dry and repainting.

Also, as Silverback mentioned, be VERY careful while sanding corners and raised details. It really sucks having to repaint just because you sanded through in a spot or two!

If the sanding goes well, I finish with Mother's California Gold automotive glaze followed by their wax. Although these products are not made for model paints, (definately use at your own risk!) I haven't experienced any adverse effects (knock on wood) when using them with Model Master enamels.

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.