engine detailing help

GBurdon,
I would greatly appreceate that article. When you have spare time please email it to me at Airtranscrash@earthlink.net.
If you need to send it in parts that would be fine as I suffer from having a dial-up connection.
Thankyou all for your input. I cut up a phone cord and am using the inner black cord. I am also going to use a special glue called double bubble... its something my friend uses at work (its almost an aircraft super glue.)

There is a company called detail master that has pre-wired distributers and kits to build build different setups. Your hobby shop should be able to get them.

2t2 crash;

Further to my previous post in FSM 1996 Modelling the Second World War (Special Issue) This is where the full article is for detailing the 1/24 scale willy's kit from top to bottom. Includes the innaccurate areas of the kit to be corrected and how. So if you can get a copy you'll be on your way. If you can not I can scan the article and email it if you'd like.

Cheers;

Gregory

QUOTE: Originally posted by 2t2 crash That looks nice! what do you have success with as far as gluing wire to plastic, etc? the superglue im using will not dry and adhere well.

I use Loctite's thin super glue without any problems on the copper wire. It can be harder to get those tiny cables to stick as they are somewhat "greasy" on the insulation and pulls out really easy. That's one of the reasons I use this copper wire's instead.

Niclas

That looks nice! what do you have success with as far as gluing wire to plastic, etc? the superglue im using will not dry and adhere well.

I use various gauges of copper wire and just paint it the colour appropriate. It bends and holds the shape easily. You could also use wire from an old computer or phone, as long as it's the right size and colour go ahead. For the cooling hoses you can use shrinking tube on a thicker copper wire and make some clamps of wire or aluminium foil depending of the type you want.
This is the latest adventure with copper wire, attached and carefully painted afterwards. The spark plug boots is made from the insulation of a thin wire and put on the copper wire.

Good luck
Niclas

I use fuse wire or very thin solder. It is easy to shape and bend and also holds it's shape. All you have to do is paint it and then secure it with CA or epoxy glue.

2t2 crash;

I use the wiring from inside phone wire. It is pre-coloured, flexible, yet holds its shape. I buy an extension or replacement phone receiver cord from second hand shops or from Wal-Mart or other cheap store. The exterior rubberised housing is cut easily with scissors or a hobby knife then just pull the colour required from the inside wires and cut. I use superglue to hold the wire in place and drill an appropriate size hole to accomodate the gauge of wire.

Incidentally if you look through the Kalmbach Catalogue of Modelling References on the FSM page. You will find a great reference book in the Scale Auto Detailing book for sale there. In the book is a list of wire sources and gauges to use for type of representation (i.e. ignition wires, plugs etc) as well as some really good references on detailing motor types.

There also is an article FSM published awhile ago (exact location escapes me) on detailing the 1/24 Willys Jeep including a detailed description and photos of the engine.

Best of luck with the build. If you need further information let me know.

Cheers;

Gregory

I use stretched sprue. If you've used it for wiring on your aircraft, you probably already know it can be stretched to a variety of thicknesses, and will retain its color too. I save extra red and blue sprues and stretch them into wires of appropriate diameter, and then use small drill bits to bore out their ports. The best part is they can be held in place with regular model cement and painted or left bare. I would also suggest the core of a trash bag twist tie, because it can be bent into a specific shape and then holds it nicely. I leave plenty of extra on the inside of the engine to tie together so they don't pull out. Go for it - it's way easier than it looks and is one of the most drastic improvements you can make to any motor. I have also used thread on occasion, but it tends to fall limp, so it's not good for all applications.