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turning wheels, making drive shafts, etc.

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  • Member since
    November 2005
turning wheels, making drive shafts, etc.
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 28, 2005 10:47 PM
Hello, im sure you guys have realized im working on my 68 chevelle as a gift for my dad... so i have more questions.

I see a lot of autos with the wheels turned to a side, is there an article on how to do this?

also, I am highly unsatisfied by the amt's shortcut of having the driveshaft be a part of the molding for the frame so I intend to cut it out and make a drive shaft, and also cover the hole I put in the model. What is the best material for body alterations?
i need to close in gaps from the 69 style tail lights that are not there in the 68.

goodness I think planes are easier in a way.


oh, one last thing.... what are some ideas for grille material? I'd like a realistic grille.

thanks and sorry for all the noob questions.
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Greencastle, IN
Posted by eizzle on Monday, August 29, 2005 9:05 AM
you could probably find some photo etched U-joints somewhere, and use some spruce to make your driveshaft. To fill the hole all you would really need is some flat thin plastic, cut it to shape, glue it in, and fill and sand it.

Colin

 Homer Simpson for president!!!

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Burlington, Ontario Canada
Posted by gburdon on Monday, August 29, 2005 9:58 AM
2t2 crash:

If you can locate a copy of this book it has all the answers you're looking for.

BUILDING and DETAILING SCALE MODEL CARS - Bill Coulter - ISBN 0890241139
Published by KALMBACH Publishing

I checked the online shop for Kalmbach, unfortunately they are no longer offering it for sale it seems. Check eBay for a copy that's where I got my copy.

To assist you before you get the book.

Turning the wheels. You will have to cut the axle on each side at the angle you want the wheels to be turned. Don't just cut the end off at an angle. Cut at an angle slightly behind the mounting pin that the wheel will attach to. Re-attach your cut pieces by drilling a small hole in each piece and pin it with thin wire to provide strength.

You will have to extend and shorten the turn link as well. You can do this with sprue from the kit. If you do not have a lathe, chuck the piece in a hand drill and sand it to the correct size with sanding sticks or needle files. Then remove the kit piece and attach your new piece.

To make the U-joints use lead foil from a wine bottle or the foil safety top off a pill bottle.

To make your kit grill look more realistic you can do one of the following.

1. Cut and file all the openings with your needle files and a small drill bit
2. Paint the squares with flat black to simulate the shadow of the openings
3. If it is a "mesh" style grill visit a fabric store and pick up MOURNING VEIL it is used to make wedding veils and widow veils usually in black and white. Cut it to size and glue it in from behind. If your engine is going to be visible with the hood open you may have to slightly frame the veil material in with thin plastic strips.

To make the modifications of removing the drive train and to fill in the tail light openings you will need some thin plastic and some body putty. You can use BONDO from the auto department or you can use any of the available modelling putties. Simply cut the plastic to cover the hole with enough around each edge to glue down. Attach from the rear. Fill the opposite side with the putty and sand smooth.

A lot of information to take in. However if you get a copy of the book above you'll see exactly what I have described. Kalmbach published numerous books on automotive modelling and each is full of great references. I am primarily an armour modeller, however I bought all the available references on auto modelling because they had "how-to" tips I could transfer to armour for detailing engines and interiors of vehicles.

I hope this helps. Post photos of the finished kit. I am sure your Dad will be really excited to receive it.

Cheers;

Gregory
VETERAN - (Noun) - Definition - One who signed a blank cheque as: “Payable to The People of Canada, Up To and Including My Life."
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Falun, Sweden
Posted by proosen on Tuesday, August 30, 2005 1:23 AM
Hi!
If you happen to have another driveshaft you can use the joints and cut them apart like I did on my Thunderbolt and use some round styrene like in the pic.

Niclas

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 30, 2005 3:32 PM
sweet. how did you make those coil springs?
thanks for the tips guys, i'm working on it now
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Burlington, Ontario Canada
Posted by gburdon on Tuesday, August 30, 2005 4:27 PM
2t2 Crash;

To make coil springs I use fine gauge brass wire wrapped around the part or around a piece of equal diameter to the piece I need the springs to attach to.

As far as the advice it's always free and you're welcome.
However a look at kits in my "someday" bin will cost you! lol

Cheers;

Gregory
VETERAN - (Noun) - Definition - One who signed a blank cheque as: “Payable to The People of Canada, Up To and Including My Life."
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Falun, Sweden
Posted by proosen on Wednesday, August 31, 2005 2:33 AM
Sign - Ditto [#ditto]
That's exactlly what I did:

Niclas
  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Tehachapi, Ca.
Posted by peglegrc on Wednesday, August 31, 2005 2:13 PM
Excuse question if its not apporiate, But are you building a SNAP?!! Your cutting out the drive shaft thats in the molding and you need to replace it with plastic?!!
PeglegRC "The Meaning of life??? How the Heck should I know? Try Google." "Can You Expand your report about Employee Morale?..I'm Afraid 'Bite Me' doesn't Quite cover it"... "Please excuse any misspelled word's!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, August 31, 2005 5:25 PM
no, not a snap.
The amt kit had the drive shaft molded with the frame/floor plate base. It looks crappy so i cut it off with a dremmel and am going to close the gap as it should look, and then make a propper drive shaft.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, August 31, 2005 6:18 PM
I've used kit u-joints and aluminum or brass tube for the shaft. Glue the joint to the end and away you go.

The metal doesn't need any prep work like spruce dowel.
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