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Priming automotive paint

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Priming automotive paint
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 12:55 PM
Hello all,

I was curious see how many folks out there have actually used automotive paints on their models, and how you kept the plastic from melting/buckling.
I've only been successful with it once and the other times were utter failure.
How do you properly prime styrene to be sheilded against paint that is hot enough to hurt the plastic?
Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Carlos
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: East Bethel, MN
Posted by midnightprowler on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 4:37 PM
I use Duplicolor primer/scratch filler, whether spraying auto or paints. Apply the first coat or two in mist coats, the wet coats, you'll be fine.
Lee

Hi, I am Lee, I am a plastiholic.

Co. A, 682 Engineers, Ltchfield, MN, 1980-1986

1 Thessalonians 4:13-18 1 Corinthians 15:51-54

Ask me about Speedway Decals

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Washington State
Posted by leemitcheltree on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 10:24 PM
Carlos,
I almost always use automotive acrylic on my car models - it dries very fast, and can be polished to a mirror finish using ordinary car polishes.
I've always had perfect results - you just have to be a little careful, that's all.
Always use a spray booth or spray outside - the fumes are awful to breathe. If you plan on using the automotive two-pack (I can't imagine why you would) use an approved respirator capable of coping with the nasty fumes - they're seriously bad for you - check with your local government OHS officer for the correct type, or call a spray painter.
I always thin the paint pretty heavily so it goes on very thin - if I'm spraying lighter colors, including reds, yellows, whites or blues, I tend to use white as a primer, as this allows for a richer, fuller color saturation without having to apply 20 color coats. But for darker colors and blacks I just use gray primer.
Again, I try to thin the paint as much as needed to get a really thin dust coat for the first few coats of primer, then do the same for the first few coats of top coat.
Then, hit it with a wet coat (after allowing sufficient drying time between all primer coats and color coats to prevent crazing or warping) and then another one. I find this usually is all that's needed.
Remember, the thinners and the paint are "hot" and will attack sytrene if applied too thickly.
It always pays to experiment on a scrap car model to get the feel of the paint - I've even gone to the trouble of purchasing a really cheap model just to get a body to practise on.
Remember, patience is the key to all success in modelling. If you're patient, you can figure things out and will have far fewer disasters.
Take my word for it. It's taken decades for me figure this one out.
Cheers,
LeeTree

Cheers, LeeTree
Remember, Safety Fast!!!

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: United Kingdom / Belgium
Posted by djmodels1999 on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 4:09 AM
I do too. Not just on cars. On everything!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 7:15 AM
What if you are using automotive spray cans from Discount Auto, or Pep Boys?
I don't use an airbrush on my cars(although I've been meaning to get one) because I've been getting fantastic results from rattle cans for years.
How do you prep the plastic for that?
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: East Bethel, MN
Posted by midnightprowler on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 4:28 PM
Big Smile [:D]You will still need to use a automotive primer, such as Duplicolor. Light mist coat, then wet coat, same with the color, light mist coats, then wet ones.
Lee

Hi, I am Lee, I am a plastiholic.

Co. A, 682 Engineers, Ltchfield, MN, 1980-1986

1 Thessalonians 4:13-18 1 Corinthians 15:51-54

Ask me about Speedway Decals

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