Some advice for a clearcoat please

Thanks for the input folks. I'll probably be trying all the different methods you've listed to see what I like best.

BTW, the clear seems to have dried just fine. Just gotta buff it out.

Tamiya clear in cans works on justabout everything. I've used that countless times a variety of underlying paints.

To get a nice finish, you can also just used car polish. Esp on a metalic finish, it really works good. There are some debate as to do it before you decal or (very carefully) after you decal - at this stage I did it before decalling and am yet to do the decalling for the specific kit...

I've never had a problem with Future over paint and I put it on everything. I use acrylics by hand and spray cans for larger areas so I've put it over a pretty wide variety of paints.

I did a bit of searching around (yeah, should have done it before asking the question) and seemed as if some people had some success with it, so I went ahead and started with the hood, since it'd be the easiest to fix. It turned out fine but I needed to add a bit of alcohol to retard the future, and some water to thin so it flowed better.

I shot the body, let's hope my luck holds out. Didn't seem to be having any negative effects about an hour after I cleared it, so maybe it'll work out. It's sitting under a cover to dry, and I'll get some pics after I can buff out a few imperfections. Here's hoping!

I'd say skip the Future, it can actually craze the paint job for you. I had that on an aeroplane of mine, the parts painted with enamel is fine but the nose piece got full of tiny cracks.
Go for a acrylic clear and if MM doesn't have one try Tamiyas X-22 and you should be fine.
I painted a R/C boat in Tamiya acrylics once and clear coated with some enamel clear from a big spray bomb and it look just fine some 10 years later. It could work on your car as well.

Good luck!
Niclas