Porsche GT1 Test Mule

Looks like its gonna be a fun build. Keep us posted!

I have had the pleasure of seeing the road version in person. Quite an amazing car. Look forward to seeing this one completed

Lovely kit - I built the clear version a while ago. Do enjoy!

Will you do the carbon test version? (Something I allways wanted to do on a kit and never got around to doing...) This kit and the gold colourscheme you have will really lend itself nicely to that! Will look nice and aggro!

Keep us posted!

Yes it will be full carbon "gold" car. Something like that (lot of work to do)

Man, that's such a good-looking car!


Do enjoy! You may very well motivate me to get one done sooner rather than later...

A little bit of scratch building. That was a long process, but it's close to good. Still have some sanding to do.

Quite close euh ? Back to sanding..

Looking good...........
You're lucky that you are using the Tamiya kit.........I built the UT Models version.......the UT version wasn't too bad, but the waterslide decals were more like self adhesive stickers.......wherever they landed, that's where they stuck.  Nearly had to use a hammer and cold chisel to pry them loose for final adjustments.
I'll have to have a look at the LHS for the Tamiya version - if it's still around.

WOW Vric, that's going to be one awesome build. 

Keep us posted on your progress, I would like to see the steps that you take on it. 

Small update on a slow project. Body painted Satin black. My first paint job with my new Iwata HP-CP.

 

Carbon fiber job started on the chassis

and Interior

Looking good, thanks for the update.

By the way... How did you like spraying with your new Iwata?

jhande wrote:

By the way... How did you like spraying with your new Iwata?

Magic.. It's day and night vs my Badger Anthem. I can work so much slower, which is much easier and nearly impossible to make error. It's really like working with a professional spray gun for 1:1 car, but in scale. It might take 20 minutes to cover the body (was 3 minutes with my badger) but I have no over spray, dust is much easier to handle (I make very thin coat of paint and dry it in seconds) and have much better control.

Overall, I finally have pleasure with my airbrush. I can take my time, work slowly and have fun. With the badger, minimum pressure was about 25psi to get a correct airflow for body paint. At that pressure, you have to work quite far and/or quite fast. With the Iwata, 10psi give me an even better spraying, working at an inch or two and having better control.

It's hard to explain, but I wouldn't go back to my Anthem, even if I was very happy with it before.

I have an Iwata Eclipse BCS that I haven't really gotten a chance to use yet, I work with enamels and didn't finish my spray booth yet. 

I got the cheaper BCS because I was told it was a good general purpose AB for our family needs, i.e. - T-shirts, murals, 1:1 autos, models, etc... and it will handle the different paints. A good starter AB if you will that should handle most that you throw at it.

Now I'm debating on getting an AB for "finer" detail work come time that I need one, mostly for working on 1:1 autos with something like "Auto Air Colors".
I was thinking of the HP-C Plus with it's 0.3mm needle/nozzle or maybe having to get the optional 0.2mm needle/nozzle.

But I was wondering how it would do on models too, especially spraying enamels. Glad to hear you enjoy it so much. What type of paint are you spraying? I wonder, could I spray something like Auto Air Colors on models? Humm...

Or I was thinking about the HP-B Plus (kind of small paint cup) or the HP-SB Plus. 

The wife didn't mind the idea of one AB for $80 along with the hobby compressor. The whole family is getting the use out of it, well except dear old dad so far. But she's a little hesitant about spending between $160 - $200 for another AB for my models or that I "might" do some 1:1 auto work. Not to worry... I have my ways of getting around that and getting what I want... I mean need. 

Sorry Vric, didn't mean to side track your thread. 

I used Model Master Enamel, thinner 1:1 with "hardware" Enamel thinner

The smaller cup isn't really a problem. on this body, I refilled it 1 time for the whole body. I then made a second spray session with only cup. (and I don't fill it full) So for inside and outside of this model, I used 3 3/4 filled cup. The paint cover nicely and this airbrush use it nicely.

Don't know about Auto Air Colors, but so far, everything I tried work nicely. Only thing that is harder to work with is Acrylic paint. After about 10 minutes, the nozzle clog and it's a pain to work with. (my Badger with 0.5mm needle had the same problem) So I just don't work with real Acrylic anymore (beside Tamiya which don't clog).

As for the price, I got my HP-C Plus for 128$ on eBay from a member named roger.wong, which is in Asia. If you are outside USA, it's the best deal. As for detail, I'm able to make 2mm line easily. With some practice, I'm sure I can do airline.

Last thing, if you think about getting into details, get the Crown Gard with your Iwata airbrush. It's about 10$ and will help you to work closer.

I'm used to spraying enamels and doing custom (1:1) work with lacquers, it's nice to know the HP-C likes spraying enamels... thanks.

Auto Air Colors are a water based paint (acrylic?), so it will be totally new stuff for me to try.

Dixie Art has the HP-C Plus for $159.00 free delivery, not too bad.
With it's 0.3mm (or optional 0.2mm) needle/nozzle it's supposed to do "hairline"...

My BCS is supposed to do "hairline" too... guess it would take a LOT of practice and the right combination to get a bottom-feed with a 0.5mm needle/nozzle (or optional 0.35mm nozzle) to get that precise.

I figure it's best to order most replacement parts and any optional parts when I order the airbrushes. That way I have them as or when I need them and when I use them I'll order a replacement. Always best to keep parts on hand, you never know... 

Thanks for the info and sharing

That's starting to look very good. I've never succesfully removed a door or a hood, how long did it take you to remove it from the body ???

Like I explain on my web site, I used small ScaleRaceCars scriber blades. Working slowly, it does a great job.. took a bit more than 1 hour to remove it.

Small update. Working on the engine.

Be sure to take a look at my website for descriptions

Looking super, Vric! I spent half a day cursing to put the CF on that down arms of the air box... Neat job on your, though! Superb hoses, too!

I will get some of those blades from David next time I get something from there for sure, I've heard they are very good. Unfortunately forgot about it last time I ordered, so will wait till I have a few things to come along with it...

WOW Vric... it's coming along just great.

I'm going to have to get a big magnifying glass so I can do details like on your engine LOL.

Been a while since I did an update. I had quite a lot of problem and I needed to strip the paint and the decal and start all over again. This time, it seam to work nicely. Pictures aren't very good, but it's something..

Really nice SeaBee! Judging from these photos the seams are barely visible. Great work.

Joel

That looks so cool. I'm going to have to pick up some of that. I always thought the Riley & Scott Hunter MK 2 was a cool car. I can't many pictures of it, but I have the C&D that it was in back in 97 or so.

Super job vric!

Joel, I claim innocence by insanity - think you got names and posts mixed up! I had nothing to do with this beaut...

Here is a small update: You can see more detail on my Web Site

The rear part is completly finished. I used MicroScale Satin clear over the decal without any problem (finally) and added few bolt here and there. I really love the result :D

Then I started the front part. Roof and one side is covered. Quite a task !

Vric wrote:

jhande wrote: By the way... How did you like spraying with your new Iwata? Magic.. It's day and night vs my Badger Anthem. It's hard to explain, but I wouldn't go back to my Anthem, even if I was very happy with it before.

Exactly what I have been saying for a long time. The Iwata brush may cost more but you get what you pay for. Glad to see you like the Iwata. If you ever want to switch try the Iwata HP-CH with the MAC valve. It has changed the way I paint my graphics and other various stuff I paint for customers. The badger is good if your simply a model painter. Lets face it.. model painting isn't really that complex or demanding when you break it down to its simple form. Then again.. all it takes is practice and you can make any tool work well for you! Good job and great model so far.