WIP RC 211V *Finished*

Continued................











Thanks again for looking!

Erik

Well, I finished this one on a low note.  For some reason, the Telifonica Movistar side fairing decals decided to "yellow" through the clear connecting sections.  After attempting to apply Set and Sol, I succesfully destroyed the decals.  I have no desire to attempt this kit again    I may attempt the 05 conversion, since the level of decal application does not seem too dificult.  I will say I enjoyed building this kit all the way up until the fairing decals.











Continued....................

And this is where I'm at now.  

The coke can was displayed to show scale (someone asked on another forum).






I should be finished by the middle of next week.  The fairings were shot with a coat of clear this morning, and I should be ready to apply decals by Tuesday. 

Thanks for looking,
Erik

Thank you!

I tried using the stocking method but I could not get a consistant spacing, so I used the mesh method.  I ended up painting and repainting the subframe three times because I couldn't get the mesh tight enough against it.  I need to find different spacing sizes of mesh, I just don't like how all the CF bits have the exact same look (subframe and exhaust cover blends together too much).  

The sanding stix and the clear tubing shipped out on monday, so hopefully I can get the fairings painted this weekend and have the decals all put on by the end of next week. 

Do you guys use clear green for the brake fluid?  Or is it a standard green that hes been thinned?

 

 

SeaBee wrote:

Erik, you sure do get a lot done in a short space of time! Starting to come together quite well! Did you use the mesh/stocking method to create the CF on that part just behind & below the tank? Or is it decals? Looks very good, either way...

Erik, you sure do get a lot done in a short space of time! Starting to come together quite well!

Did you use the mesh/stocking method to create the CF on that part just behind & below the tank? Or is it decals? Looks very good, either way...

Additional photos:

I was able to pick up the pace and knock out a majority of items, mainly the assembly of the power plant, frame, swing arm and sub frame/gas tank.











I also got most of the fairings knocked out of the way.  The nice thing about the RC211V is that there are not that many areas in which seams need to be completely filled.  I really like the Telfonica Blue (TS-51) however, the more coats you apply the darker it gets, and it gets real dark, real quick.   I put a base coat, sanded, another light coat, then the wet coats, and under certain lights it almost looks black.  It needs direct lighting in order to shine its blue.

I'm off to bed and as always, thanks for looking.
Erik

I haven't really had much time to work on the bike, I have 11 hour work days to thank for that   I painted some of the plastics and am overall pleased with thier results.  The exception being the lowers.  I spent god knows how long sanding and filling the seam on it, only to once again be laughed at by decals   I may strip it back down and paint the green and stripe in, I just need to see how it looks on the bike.  I also ordered some sanding strips and ultra fine polishing compound that I will practice on a failed attempt and see if I can get better results with the definition and depth of the paint.

Lowers:


Fender:  For once I am really pleased with a seam removal and paint job.  I still need to apply a clear over the decals, just need to find the motivation.


Upper:  I'm on the fence with this one.  In certain light it looks really good, and other times it looks like it needs to be smoother. 


That's all I have for now.  I'll try and knock out the forks and get the front end assembled this weekend.

Erik

Day three.

I put most of the engine block together and painted the frame and swing arm.  Nothing too exciting.

Swing arm:  After a failed attempt at applying a black gloss coat (crazy orange peel), I resanded the swing arm and frame and used TS 17 aluminum for the color.  I decided to go this route since sanding around the curves and dips in the frame and swing arm proved to be too difficult.   I figured the Alclad is too thin to paint a smoother surface than the Tamiya spray.




Frame:  Not too much to say other than I still have the detail work to perform (Fairing mounting points, heal gaurd on rear set, roller for chain, fairing stay and speedo mount).


Engine:  I still need to add the clutch, clutch cover (painted semi black, needs CF detail).  I'll post more pics when I assemble it into the frame.  The engine block was painted using Alclad steel, everything else is per instructions.


That's all I'm up for today.

Thank you,
Erik

Hi Wolfpac I just use fine silver wire bent double (to simulate the two wires of the hose clamp) and warp it round the hose and twist it tight using my small pin-vice to grip the end of the wires and the end result is two strips that "look like a hose clamp". I hide the trimmed knotted wire at the back where it is not so visible, I have tried photo etch but find it a bit "stiff " for this particular task.

Hope this helps Andrew

Andrew Collodel wrote:

Andrew

I love the clean look of this bike.   This is the quality of builds I want to be able to produce.  Did you paint the hose clamps on, or did you use photo etched parts?  It's hard for me to tell from the distance, wither way, looks awesome.

Thanks for the tips and compliments!
I have a circle stencil that I have attempted to use, but I can never seem to get it perfectly centered.  I have a spare set of rotors I should probably practice on.  The tef tape is a great idea, I have tons of it easily accessable at work   I think I will give it a try with the heel gaurd that's attached to the frame.

Second day of work didn't produce much.  I painted parts of the engine block as well as the CF look to the rear hugger and exhaust cover. 

Hugger and exhaust cover:  I had a spare rear hugger from a failed attempt at a build and experimented with using the base coat of gloss black and semi gloss black.  For some reason I prefer the semi gloss so I started to detail up the parts as best I could.




Frame, swing arm and engine block:  I used the bleach method to remove the chrome plated coating, then let parts soak in warm soapy water.  After that, I rinsed them until there was no bleach film left on the part by running them under hot water.  I sprayed the Alclad primer on and will paint a layer of gloss black when the weather gets warmer.








That's all for today.  Thanks again for looking,
Erik

Hi Wolfpac. For the round parts like the disc etc I use a draftsman circle stencil. First spray the disc the outer colour e.g. X10 and the when dry, find the right size circle for the inner portion of the disc and then tack the disc with prestik to the circle stencil using the stencil as a mask and then spray the inner circle e.g. X32 , it works quite well and no tricky taping.

 

About the handle bar areas try this trick using white Teflon plumbers tape. Wind the tape around the portion to be masked leaving only the bits to be sprayed exposed e.g. the brake and clutch levers. Spray the exposed parts the correct colour. When dry unwind the tape and because the tape has no adhesive no paint peels. Hope this helps.

 

IMG]http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/AndrewCollodel/DSC01493.jpg[/IMG] 

 

Andrew

Wolfpac, it's looking good... I also hand-paint without masking on these areas and it does the job for me.

As for the reservoirs' white paint, I had the same problem. Best way I found to do the reservoirs is to paint the whole thing in a base coat with nice "grip" first. Either a full-on base paint or what I tend to do is just paint flat aluminium. Then I do the white, which goes on much smoother than straight onto the plastic. Then only the black caps - because they are "bigger" and forms a hang-over it is easy to get the lines straight. Works for me...