New To Model Car Building

Welcome to the "cleaner" side of modeling Rob. 

I'll try to help with how my son and I work on ours, we work with enamel paints by the way.

Before anything, I wash all parts with mild dish detergent, rinse, dry, and then just before working on it I wipe it down with Isopropyl Alcohol.

The first thing I work on is the body and any parts that go with it, such as hood, mirrors, spoilers, etc... I test fit the parts, sand or file for a clean fit (don't like it when the hood sticks up LOL). I check for and fix any imperfections (spot putty if needed) and cleanup flashing of course. I carefully and gently wetsand the plastic with 400 to 800 grit (whatever I have kicking around). I then primer all the pieces as they are spread out seperately. Once dry, I wetsand again, check for imperfections and then wipe down again with the Alcohol. I then give it 2 to 3 mist coats of the final color paint and set it aside to dry until another day.

I'll glue some parts together before painting, such as the engine halves, heads and anything that will get painted the same color or that I can get the brush around. I'll paint the glued motor pieces then set them aside to dry. I'll paint the undercarriage and suspension pieces. I'll paint the interior tub, pieces and detail the dashboard.

After the paint dries, I'll start glueing things together.

Back to the body. I wetsand again but with 800 to 1200 grit if the finish is fairly smooth, then spray my next 2 to 3 final wet coats of paint. I don't install the windshield until after I'm done painting and detailing the body. When the paint is fully cured (I wait at least a month) I'll use Mequiar's Scratch X if needed and then Mequiar's Gold paste wax.

My son preferes to leave most of the parts attached to the sprue while he paints them. He found it easier than using tweezers or toothpicks to hold some of the smaller parts while brushing on the paint.

As far as what paint to use... I've used all types of enamel paints on my models over the years. When I was a kid I used some lacquers but they are more work. Two important things to remember - If using a non-modeling paint (one intended for our plastic kits), use a good primer coat to seal the plastic. Pick the color that suits your needs or fancy and spray away.

I matched some factory colors using those spray cans of Dupli-Color touchup paints. I keep my eye out for colors at Wal*Mart and my local auto supply shop besides Testors LOL.

Hope that helped get you started.
Maybe I should of had my morning coffee first? 

Some very good advice there! What I want to add (might've missed it - busy having morning coffee ) is that I tend to build up as much as possible before painting a unit of the same colour, such as a body shell. I  mainly do racecars, but I add spoilers, aero intakes, etc. that will end as the body colour, then make sure the seams are sorted before going through the painting process.

Good luck!

Yes I agree also. Do not use superglue on any windows even plastic glue can mar clear parts if it runs or the part moves. Use a pva or a specific glue like Krystal Clear. I use Tamiya acrylic and spray cans or Duplicolor spray cans but the process is much the same. Always ensure the bod is as clean and smooth as possible before top coating. Using an undercoat helps to locate the minor blemishes you might not otherwise see.