painting question

I use Duplicolor rattle cans most, and being laquer, orange peel is quite certainly order of the day, as mist coats are a must to prevent reaction with the plastic on the primer, mist coats for smooth metallic distribution with the color, and mist coats on the clear to prevent re-floating of the metallics.

But that don't bother me none. I just whip out the 'ol Micro-Mark polish pads, Novus #3 and #2, then usually finish up with 3M #39007 Imperial Hand glaze.

But with enamels and Tamiya synthetic laquers, they lay down pretty good if a few things are kept in mind:

1: Yes, by all means, warm the can in fairly warm, but NOT hot water.

2: Choose a day with low relative humidity.

3: If forced to paint outside like I am, little or NO wind is a must.

Please be sure to allow about 10 to 15 minutes betwen coats, and make them mist coats, except for the last, which can be fairly wet. Please be sure to take note if the brand you are using mentions anyting about what's known as the " no re-coat window". Usually with enamels, this varies from maker to maker, for example, Krylon Fusion's is re-coat before 24 hours, or AFTER 7 days. Testors is within 3 hours or after 48. The period of time in between those is the no re-coat window, and there's a chance the new coat may try to lift or wrinkle the curing coats already sprayed. I have had this show up as anything from mild orange peel to complete disaster. The reason I mention this, is a lot of folks like to clear coat over decals. If the clear is sprayed over decals while in the no re-coat window, there can be problems.

This Revell '40 Ford was rattled with Fusion. What you see is what I got. No kidding, not even a wax job, just a wipe down with a damp rag to remove my fingerprints.

This Revell Corvette C6 was Duplicolor, and ws completely the other extreme. Full bore no steps missed polishing, but as you see, the end result was worth it.

Hope this helps, and thanks for listening.

Oh, don't use 3M #39007 as final polish on anything except Duplicolor until you test your paint with it on a scrap piece first. Some enamels just never get hard enough to take the actual automotive grade solvents in this polish. I've had Testors react to it. If in any doubt, Final polish with Novus #1 instead, but be sure to do any BMF work first.