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First Auto Model - Tips Please

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  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: Cape Town, South Africa
First Auto Model - Tips Please
Posted by osjohnm on Monday, June 4, 2007 5:17 AM

Hi all

I build armour models primarily and have built a few aircraft as well.

A friend of mine recently bought himself a new 1:1 Subaru Impreza. He would like a model of any subaru on his desk at work. He asked me if I would be willing to build one for him.

I decided to give it a bash and have promised him that if he isn't satisfied with the finish then I'll buy him a brand new unassembled kit.

Since I'm an armour builder I have a few questions regarding auto kits and the model to be built, Tamiya #24281 2005 Monte Carlo Rally Subaru Impreza:

The instructions mention TS-50 Mica Blue, is there a Tamiya bottled equivalent?
Would prefer to use my airbrush rather than the Lacquer spraycan.

This would be my build approach once the main colour is on:
-gloss coat for decals (Tamiya X-22 Clear) acrylic or enamel better?
-attach decals with microset and microsol
-seal with gloss coat

Would TS-13 be better for a gloss coat?

How would weathering be done on a car? (Think my friend would prefer a clean build)

If you can make some suggestions, it would be appreciated

Thanks

John
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Monday, June 4, 2007 9:29 AM

Here's an impressive video (2 parts) to watch - unfortunately it's in Japanese, but it should give you an idea or two.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yudxbS5vRa4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXMQ-9s1DNU

-gloss coat for decals (Tamiya X-22 Clear) acrylic or enamel better?

Your base colour will be gloss already, so you can skip this step.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, June 4, 2007 7:22 PM

I will try to help the best I can:

1. I have not read a review about that kit yet, but Tamiya's rally cars seem to be of good quality.

2.you can always decant the TS-50 mica blue spray can using this tutorial so you can spray it through your airbrush.

3.a. I have had nothing but problems with x-22 acrylic clear. I have had the best results with lacquer clears when I sprayed a few mist coats first, then the wet coat, for a really smooth finish.

3.b. Correct.

3.c. Correct. I actually got my best finish using American Tradition Lacquer clear, which I got at my local hardware store for $3.00 for an 11 oz. spray can. Be careful though, because lacquer can mess up decals if you don't spray a few mist coats first.

4. I have not tried TS-13 yet so I can't comment.

5. The weathering depends on if you want it to look like it did before the race or after. I would recommend giving the engine and exhaust a slight wash unless you want it to look like a brand new car right out of the shop.

Sorry for the long answer and I hope this helps out Big Smile [:D].

 

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Paarl, South Africa
Posted by SeaBee on Tuesday, June 5, 2007 3:04 AM
First off, welcome to the wonderfull world of autos!

I built the 2004 Japan winner a while ago, so here goes:

If you're uncomfortable with TS50 and want an a/b version, check out Hiroboy's Zero range of paints. He now has a Mica blue - and an entire range of Subaru "real car" colours, if you want to do the normal kit and not one of the WRC ones. (There's not a Tamiya bottled equivalent) I've used TS50, so cannot comment on that specific one, but the rest of his paints that I have used are awesome. If you do, in the end go for TS50, use it either over a white primer - grey primer will not do the colour justice. And build it up very gradually.

I use TS13 mostly. It does tend to be a bit harsh-ish, but I've almost never had problems. There is a zero clear as well, if you're going that route, btw. But it's one of these 2K's you have to mix. It (TS13) works fine as long as you (a) don't flood it, otherwise it will damage the decals (mist coat(s) first, then wet) and (b) don't have any of your decal solvent still trapped under the decals - that will pretty much screw it up. But the latter is true for most clears.

Decals works perfectly with microset and sol. Weathering does work very nicely on a rally car, done it myself (on a Focus) for an age-old Rally GB. Monte is a tar rally, though, so there's not all that much to weather as in a gravel rally.

The kit itself does not have problem areas. Though a different version, I can't imagine them having gone "backward" with the later release. Engine detail... which engine detail?! There's just some parts resembling the bottom of the engine (hood is closed) and that gets covered by the protection plates anyways. In some they are clear, so you can leave it that way if you want to, can't remember whether mine was or not.

Anything else, just shout.

Oh, and if you want tons of input and the real experts to speak to (I am by no means an expert) why don't you join this build up in our race car GB?!
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Shrewsbury, UK
Posted by Martsmodels on Tuesday, June 5, 2007 4:09 PM

 

John - this is not exactly the same model as yours but will give you a good idea of the build process

http://italianhorses.net/Gallery/Tamiya/TamWRXSTi/SubWRX.htm

Good luck - Martin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Martin http://www.freewebs.com/martsmodels/
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Brisbane, Australia
Posted by shaun68 on Tuesday, June 5, 2007 5:11 PM
Having built about 10 of Tamiya's Subie WRC's with another doz or so to go, I can tell you straight up the TS 50 Mica Blue is a really lovely spray. Unlike SeaBee, I don't prime the bodyshell, I just make sure it's well & truly clean & build the layers up, rubbing down between coats. With at least 3 coats on, it will gloss up nicely anyway without clear coat. Generally I don't clear coat the decals anyway, as the real WRC's decals are vinyl stickers placed onto the polished body panels. Make sure you leave some time after using the Mica Blue for it to cure, as it can be a bit delicate. As SeaBee said, ask away if you have any q?
  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: Cape Town, South Africa
Posted by osjohnm on Wednesday, June 6, 2007 3:34 AM

Hi all

Thanks for all the assistance, links, video clips and general tips.

What I'm seeing is that I need to polish the body once its been painted/clear coated?
From the video and build link above, I can use Tamiya's Finish Polishing Compound (left over from my aircraft canopy days - hope its still ok)

It also appears that I don't necessarily have to seal the decals once they are applied?

Last question, when airbrushing the engine or interior parts (not body) do you guys prefer acrylic or enamels?

Thx again

John
  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Paarl, South Africa
Posted by SeaBee on Wednesday, June 6, 2007 9:02 AM
John, in my opinion and there are others that may differ, don't polish metallic paints. I haven't checked the video's, so not sure what they said. If you have a metallic paint and clearcoat it, you can polish the clearcoat (and when you get colour on your cloth, you know you've gone too far!) Feel it flattens it a bit and takes the edge off the metallic finish. For that use, finishing compound works great! For mine, I clearcoated it, polished the clearcoat a bit with Tamiya rubbing compound and then applied wax (normal auto liqued wax) to bring out some shine.

True, you don't have to seal the decals and, as stated the way it is done irl is to apply the decals on top of everything with basically a rub-off-type decal. So you do get the same look. I tend to clearcoat most of my decals for extra protection, though.

As for acrylics vs enamels... whatever you have! I even use acrylics on some parts and enamel on other. Admittedly, it's made more difficult for me in that I used to do acrylics only, then it just became hard to obtain around here and I now have more enamels. The latter also (personal taste) looks nicer to me for the metallic colours (like x31, x32 and so on). But the engin on this car really is not something to get excited about.
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Brisbane, Australia
Posted by shaun68 on Wednesday, June 6, 2007 7:24 PM
 osjohnm wrote:

What I'm seeing is that I need to polish the body once its been painted/clear coated?
From the video and build link above, I can use Tamiya's Finish Polishing Compound (left over from my aircraft canopy days - hope its still ok)

It's up to you really. I have tried all of these options with success: spray at least 3 coats directly from the can, polish with Tamiya's finishing compound, decal; spray, clear coat with TS13, apply decals; spray, clear coat, polish, apply decals. Having done a few WRC's, I have the benefit of being able to try all these different things to see what works best - as this is your first (hopefully not your last), pick the one you feel most comfortable with.

It also appears that I don't necessarily have to seal the decals once they are applied?

As long as you take your time & the decals are well bedded down on a nice smooth finish, you should be fine. The bodysides ideally should be done last & leave each for at least a few days to fully dry, as those large Subaru stars need some coaxing to snuggle down over the door details, etc.

Last question, when airbrushing the engine or interior parts (not body) do you guys prefer acrylic or enamels?

If you can, use a regular brush for the engine bits, & all the interior pieces. You'll spend so much time masking everything up, it'll drive you barmy.

Thx again

  • Member since
    May 2006
Posted by Zen-Builder on Thursday, June 7, 2007 5:15 AM

Actually the videos are not as easy as they seem to appear.

For one the guy used a urethane coat which took 2 days to dry, etc.

Also many of the tools, etc he used are not that commonly available outside of japan.

The whole series(and it is a long one covering multiple genres) is aimed towards japanese modelers.

IMHO, take what you saw in them with a truck-load of salt.

TS-50 is only available in spray-cans(notice he never used it). 

As for the weathering your best references are pics of the real deal. Best use pastels or similar.

HTH.

 

  • Member since
    May 2006
Posted by Zen-Builder on Thursday, June 7, 2007 5:51 AM
ooops,wrong forum.
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