decals! what do I do with this?

new_kid_17 wrote:

I have a monster truck and have meticulously detailed the frame and components but I still need to finish the body. the only problem is that I have never used a decal yet and the ENTIRE body is made up of decals that also should line up. I have tried on several occasions to apply a few of them with hot water but I think I ended up washing off the glue on the back. Does any one have any suggestions? That would be most helpful!

Ok. This is a fairly broad subject, but decals can be pretty easy once you get the hang of it.

First off, use a shallow dish of warm (not hot) water. Use a shallow dish so that if by chance you drop it in there, you can get it out easily without having to fish around for it. Chasing a decal around the bottom of a glass of water is not fun. Use warm water because hot water may cause deformation/stretching of the decal when you go to apply it.

Cut each individual decal you're going to use from the sheet. Don't dip the whole thing in the water - doing that is just a mess waiting to happen. 

Don't drop the decal in the water and wait till it starts to float off the backing paper. This is the number one cause of loss of glue (and therefore adhesion).

Dip the decal into the water, remove it and then place it aside on a waterproof surface for about 30 seconds. If you watch the decal while the water is soaking through, you can see the backing paper darkening slightly as it's becoming saturated (ie. the water is displacing the air in the paper fibres) When the  backing paper is uniformly saturated ie. no "light" spots, (turn the decal over and look at the middle of the design - if it's sufficiently soaked through then there shouldn't be any "light" areas where the water hasn't soaked through the backing) then test gently with a wet fingertip to see if the decal slides around freely on the backing paper. If it does, it's ready to apply. If it doesn't slide around freely, dip the decal in the water again and wait a few seconds more.

When ready to apply, don't try to peel it off the backing paper. If you do this, it will fold in on itself in an instant.

Place the decal (on the backing paper) against the model in the approximate position that the decal will go.  Now depending on how big the decal is, you can either use a paintbrush or a wet fingertip to hold the decal gently, and slide the backing paper out from underneath. (If using your fingers, make sure that your fingers are wet otherwise your decals will stick to them and not the model)

If the decal isn't in the exact position you want, you can gently prod it into position. If it's uncooperative and won't move, dip a paintbrush in your water dish and apply a drop of water to the edge of the decal. This water will be drawn underneath, giving you a film of water between the decal and the model on which you can "float" the decal into the required position.

Once in position, if you have any excess water, don't be tempted to blot it by pressing with a tissue. The decal may decide it likes the tissue more than the model and leave with it.

You can remove the water by gently applying the tissue to the the edge of the decal and wicking the excess water away.

If you have adjoining decals which must line up against each other, apply one and let it dry before adding the next.

Adding to what Phil said;

For glue loss you can mix a small amount of Elmers white glue with water to reattach you decal if all the original glue is gone. Another option is to apply some Future floor polish with a soft brush -- makes a great decal glue and setting agent.

Once decals are positioned and partially dry add some setting solution with a soft brush - this will cause them to settle down with few if any wrinkles. Resist the urge to touch them once setting solution has been applied.

If you are having trouble getting them to slide on the model surface to position them a little human saliva will do wonders. Another option would be an acrylic wetting agent like Liquitex flow-aid added to your decal water.

Decals should always be applied over a gloss surface. I prefer Future floor polish as my gloss agent.

After all decals have dried seal them with an additional coat of Future.

Take your time, be patient.

Swanny wrote:

Once decals are positioned and partially dry add some setting solution with a soft brush - this will cause them to settle down with few if any wrinkles. Resist the urge to touch them once setting solution has been applied.

new_kid_17,

To expand on this a little:

If you use a setting solution, (depending on the decal - those of some manufacturers are resistant to setting solutions) it may appear to shrivel and wrinkle on the surface of the model. Don't panic - it's supposed to do this. It will settle on its own and snuggle down on the surface of the model as it dries. It's very important not to touch the decal while this is happening.

PS: I purposely didn't mention setting solutions in my previous post to minimise complications and additional steps. Whether you use a setting solution or not, decals should always be applied to a gloss surface to prevent silvering, as mentioned in Swanny's post above. I also didn't mention this, assuming that if the decals were to be applied to an auto model, it would already be a gloss surface.