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Model Auto finishes

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Savannah, GA USA
Model Auto finishes
Posted by Bones-coa on Thursday, September 27, 2007 9:21 PM

Can anyone point me to a good article on creating high-gloss, smooth and scratchless finishes?  I'm an aircraft guy normally and my testing for creating a good red finish on a 1/12 scale car isn't working out.

<>I've primed with gloss grey and, in order to get rid of contaminates and orange peel, I've sanded all the way up to 12000 wet sandpaper.  The contaminates and orange peel is gone, but now I have fine scratches.

 

Any help would be appreciated. 

Dana F On the bench: Tamiya DO335B-2 with LOTS of Aires stuff (On Hold) Trumpeter A-10 with LOTS and LOTS of aftermarket goodies! (On Hold) Tamiya 240ZG (In work)
  • Member since
    September 2003
Posted by mightymax on Thursday, September 27, 2007 11:37 PM

I know this is not the way the auto guys do it but I did something quick and dirty. I am too an aircraft guy mainly because I can't get a good auto finish. I stumbled upon this. My son wanted to build a Mustang. Ford not North American Smile [:)] He was only 6 at the time so I did the painting. I did not want to spend an elaborate amount of time or effort on this project. I have a paint rack filled with cheap craft acrylic paints. Anita's, Apple Barrel, Delta etc. The 50 cent a bottle on sale stuff.  I let him pick a color. He wanted blue. So I thin with windshield washer solvent and sprayed the car with my Paasche H airbrush. After a day I went back and glossed it up with Future. I have to say that that half hearted and hurried finish using cheapo stuff on my desk is the best auto finish I ever obtained. I wasn't even trying!

So I can say try using Future to gloss it up. One of my model club buddies discovered that if you actually thin this craft paint with future it works a charm. Thin with Future then gloss coat with Future. Easy stuff..

 

Good Luck,

Max Bryant  

  • Member since
    May 2007
  • From: Seattle
Posted by PeeweeBiggs on Friday, September 28, 2007 12:21 AM

The last car that I built I used toothpaste to rub out the scratches.

 

Peewee

Free worldwide shipping www.pacifictrading.hk
  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Paarl, South Africa
Posted by SeaBee on Sunday, September 30, 2007 10:43 AM
Yes, toothpaste or Tamiya rubbing compounds should get rid of the scratches. You can also try some wax after that to gloss it out even better.
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Exeter, MO
Posted by kustommodeler1 on Sunday, September 30, 2007 5:14 PM

I use Micro-Mark pads starting with 2400, then 4000, 6000, then 8000. One thing to remember, is each grit, being twice as fine as the last one, takes longer to do it's job over the finish. Stepping up to the next finer grit too soon, you'll leave behind scratches from 2 grits before, and you'll not be able to get them out. By the time you get to 8000, (maybe 12000 if it's really dark color), you can switch to some kind of compound/polish system, like Novus and finish up.

 

You shouldn't have any scratches after the novus. Use #3 very patiently, then #2 even more patiently. Now, you can do your trim work (painting/BMF), apply decals, then finish with Novus #1. Novus #1 has silicates in it, so make sure you're done painting/decaling/foiling before using it. If the paint is Duplicolor automotive lacquer, or Dupont Chroma, I use 3M #39007 Imperial hand glaze as the final polish.

 

Had lots of good luck too.Cool [8D]

Darrin

Setting new standards for painfully slow buildsDead

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