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Defroster lines?

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  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Portland, Oregon
Defroster lines?
Posted by fantacmet on Friday, May 9, 2008 6:53 PM
Some of the Japanese kits like Tamiya and Fujimi have some nice rear defroster detail molded into the rear glass, but it doesn't lok very realistic.  Anyone know of a way to get some paint on these lines without marring the glass?

    

  • Member since
    January 2008
  • From: Tulsa, OK
Posted by acmodeler01 on Friday, May 9, 2008 9:02 PM
I was thinking about this the other day while looking at one such kit. Mind you, I was just thinking, so I haven't tried it yet... What about a pin wash, of sorts. What I'm thinking is a highly thinned oil pigment, maybe burnt umber or raw umber, then applied like a pin wash to the molded lines. It would be roughly the correct color, and after it dried you could wipe away the excess from between the lines. I will try it the next time I get a chance, but if you beat me to it, let us know how that works out.
  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Portland, Oregon
Posted by fantacmet on Friday, May 9, 2008 9:28 PM

I may give that a shot.  The only other thing I could think of is an appropriate colored rapidograph or other drafting pen, or a ultra fine point Gundam marker in the right color and get them right above each line.

I have been wanting to get some oils but couldn't see spending 25 bucks for 1 tube at the local Michaels.  I was in Fred Meyer today(Kroger for the rrest of you), and they had the same brand of oil pants, a nice pack of tubes same size andbrand as michaels but only 6 bucks for a pack of 12.  Do nice little score.  Picked up a can of turpenoid as well.  So I may give that a shot.  The only thing Iv'e done so far on this particular kit I'm working on is glue a couple parts to the body and paint the body.  The paint is drying right now.  Tried Tamiya spray cans for the first time.  I LOVE my acrylics and my airbrush, but for auto body I think I need to go back to spray can.  At least with modern cars where I have to mask and paint black trim.  I ruined one of my most beautiful paintjobs last night on my R34 Skyline masking off the black trim(Yes White_R34 it will be a few more days before I can post pics because I have to strip and repaint the body now ARGH).

    

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Lakewood, CO
Posted by kenjitak on Sunday, May 11, 2008 12:35 AM
Depending on the spacing of the lines you might be able to hit the lines with a black marker pen, just skimming the tops of the lines.

Ken

  • Member since
    November 2006
Posted by Mike H. on Sunday, May 11, 2008 11:19 AM
I would try something like a red colored pencil.  You could use the side of the color that's shown when sharpened and it would ride right along the ridge molded in.
  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Portland, Oregon
Posted by fantacmet on Sunday, May 11, 2008 11:45 PM
I've tried the lback marker and succeeded only in destroying a window.  I also tried the pencils, which was a good idea, but it just didn't show up right, however it had promise, which is why I was almost thinking of using a drafting pen of appropriate color.  Using the thing oils is a sound idea as well.  Although I'm finding with the oils as I accent panel lines is, it is taking about 4 or 5 applications to get it to show up at all.

    

  • Member since
    January 2008
  • From: Tulsa, OK
Posted by acmodeler01 on Monday, May 12, 2008 6:23 AM

This may be too little too late, but on the window you destroyed... is it from too much marker on it that you could not remove? I found that 91% isopropyl alcohol will remove nearly any "permanent" marker. Hope it helps in some way...

As for the oils taking multiple applications to show up, just mix them a little thicker. I mix mine until they flow easily into the panel lines, but not so thin that they lose their opacity. It may take just slightly longer to dry, but the color coverage is good enough that it covers in only 1 pass.

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Portland, Oregon
Posted by fantacmet on Monday, May 12, 2008 10:00 PM
I'll have to give it a shot when I get better with mixing the oils.  I'm doing a Toyota Grill from an Aoshima 4x4, asnd it has taken about 5 applications, to look decent, but I still can't get it to flow into the shallow emblem.  Driving me nuts.  I just can't get anything into the shallow recesses in the emblems.  On the window I destroyed, I tried alcohol to remove it, but it just fogged it up and I couldn't polish it out.  Not sure what the deal was there.  If I try that method ever again I'll coat it with future first, so that way I can just remove the whole thign without hurting the "glass."

    

  • Member since
    June 2020
Posted by JimLo on Sunday, April 18, 2021 7:48 PM

Hi All

I know I'm late to this thread but just found it because I'm trying to paint the defroster lines in the back window of the Tamiya RX-7 FC. Is there a recommended method? I might try an orange acrylic paint wash. or maybe grind up a red colored pencil and dust it on? Thanks

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, April 19, 2021 7:16 AM

How about an inkjet decal. The artwork would be a simple grid of grey lines.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Monday, April 19, 2021 9:31 AM

Ineresting Question. 

  My answer. Go to a Drafting( Not Office) supply outlet. Pick out the one you need, a Rapidograph .010 Fineline Pen. Take to register, pay for, and go hmoe with the Best line marker you've ever had. Mine is now over thirty years old, but the refillable type. I still have my full set I used when designing Houses and Buildings.The only reason I even bought them was for doing engineering drawings. The H and B stuff came later.

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