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Tire seam.

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  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: California
Posted by rabbiteatsnake on Friday, December 12, 2008 4:41 PM
This is a real head scratcher I've done like things in past and never experianced recurring seams.  Although its a frustrating pain  my suggestion(Same as ACmodeler01)was an intermediate mold.
The devil is in the details...and somtimes he's in my sock drawer. On the bench. Airfix 1/24 bf109E scratch conv to 109 G14AS MPC1/24 ju87B conv to 87G Rev 1/48 B17G toF Trump 1/32 f4u-1D and staying a1D Scratch 1/16 TigerII.
  • Member since
    March 2008
Posted by parts on Tuesday, October 14, 2008 10:16 AM

I understand what you are saying and it is a good idea. That way it would all be the same media and would be easier to work with.

ETA: While taking the thing out for another coat of Mr. Surfacer, it fell, hit the floor, and one side went flying. I did find a spot to index it back together again, so it's just a hair line crack. Soooooo.....back to filling and sanding. I needed to get an engraver bit for the Dremel anyway.

  • Member since
    January 2008
  • From: Tulsa, OK
Posted by acmodeler01 on Tuesday, October 14, 2008 9:18 AM

I thought of a way to take care of that seam if you've got the casting recources to spare...

Fill the seam, but leave the filler above the seam, keeping a ridge where the seam was; that is, don't sand it smooth.  
Cast the tire in resin, including the new ridges.
Take the new resin tire to the lathe and sand off/remove the ridges that are now in resin.
You're left with a smooth tire with no seam and no ridges. Now you've got your perfect master pattern.

I hope I made sense. I know it's not the most economical way to go about it, but it will probably yeild the best results with the least effort.

  • Member since
    March 2008
Posted by parts on Tuesday, October 14, 2008 8:48 AM

Yep, it's supposed to be a rear motorcycle tire.

Thanks for the help guys. I just filled a few spots this morning and will sand it tonight. Then start trying to cut the grooves. That in itself will be fun to get the curves right. When done it might look like a Metzler.Laugh [(-D] I'll post a pic when done.

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Monday, October 13, 2008 9:25 PM

This's a motorcycle rear tire, right?

I'd cut the rest of the grooves with a razor saw, then scuff up the tread with coarse sandpaper like Gerald said.. I think after the paint's on and weathered, that stuff you're having issues with disappear, or at least be camouflage so well noone will notice, and especially if you hide the worst part either at the bottom or under the fender..

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Monday, October 13, 2008 2:40 PM

A real tire will have scuffs and groves cut into the tread. If it were me I would scuff the tire as it is being spun with some course sand paper....just lightly. This is a picture of a really well worn tire...

Aircraft tires go from 0 to what ever the aircraft is traveling at at time of contact with the runway...this subjects the tire to a lot of abrasion and heat instantly...so scuffs and gouges occur.

In addition to scuffing with sandpaper as I mentioned add a little weathering and you'll have  realistic tire. Mud covers everything...why do think armour builders swear by it and the use of tarps. Wink [;)]

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    March 2008
Posted by parts on Monday, October 13, 2008 1:29 PM

It doesn't show very well in the pic and I had the camera on Macro mode. Maybe I should just finish the water grooves and call it good enough. The red lines show the insert of PVC and if you follow them up you can make out the seams. It shows more than in the pic.  

 

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Friday, October 10, 2008 7:08 PM
Maybe you should think about using something else instead of CA. Try epoxy. Pictures of what you are talking about is helpful too.

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    March 2008
Tire seam.
Posted by parts on Friday, October 10, 2008 1:57 PM
I want to make a master for a 260 Metzler tire for the Revell RM series of choppers. I made a mold of the stock tire and cast a resin. Chucked it up in the lathe and cut it. Then took a piece of PVC pipe, cut, and trued it up, then superglued it all together. I left the center PVC a little higher because I wanted the tire to be somewhat round instead of two curved sides with a flat center. Used green Squadron putty in thin layers to build up to the center piece. After letting it dry for a month I started to finish it. I have used Tamiya putty to cover the seam, sand, and spray with Mr. Surfacer 1000. I have done this a couple of times and still the seam will show with the Mr. Surfacer. It looks good and feels smooth until I spray it and then the seam just stands out at you. The only thing I can think of to do is coat the tire with 1/16 inch layer of Tamiya putty, find a piece of pipe the right shape, attach some sandpaper, and sand the thing in the lathe again so it doesn't get down to the PVC center. Add other ideas?
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