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working with photoetched material

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  • Member since
    August 2008
working with photoetched material
Posted by tankerbuilder on Tuesday, March 23, 2010 8:47 PM

Hi, I know this is an area I am new at ( less than two years),but, what I discovered today I just have to pass on.I am sure ,like many modelers ,I have ALL the neat tools for dealing with photoetched parts.Well, you newbies out there (newer than yours truly)You don,t have to have to buy "JOE,S - P.E.Bending tool, or MIKE,S shure shot P.E.Cutter!"Go out to your garage or tool drawer.Do you have a decent set of STANLEY screwdrivers and a STANLEY retractable box knife??How about that set of scissors your wife says wont, cut her scrapbooking stuff right anymore ,and two pair if pliers With good jaws.Now go to the stained glass area of HOBBY LOBBY and they have two very nice pliers for P.E. work One pair are called glasiers pliers and the other are just a neat pair of smooth jawed wide angle(THEY are wider at the edge than the hinge) pliers .If yoy have these things you can get by admirably well.Until I started with my present client I didn,t know that P.E. could be gotten any larger than 1/192.Well, did I get my balloon busted!!Anyway, all you have to do is dive in ,get comfortable with the stuff and TALLEY HO!!! If you can, see if a buddy has some scrap P.E. material that you can practice with.I had a friend that had two ships worth of stuff he didn,t use, so I practiced and now there,s no shape I wont tackle! If you want HEMISPHERES you need a piece of the foam like placemats are made from or something a little stiffer.If you have the above listed starter tools you,re good to go. Hope this will get you going.    tankerbuilder

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 10:12 PM

My PE tools are very simple. I place the PE on an old 4"X4" ceramic tile used as a cutting surface and a round exacto blade to cut the pieces from the fret. I use my old flat jeweler's file to remove any burrs. For bending I use two single sided razor blades (one to hold the part and the other to scoop and bend it) and tweezers. With these limited tools I worked on an extensive Griffon detail set in 1/144 scale for a Type VII/C Revell U Boat that won 1st place in the IPMS Region 12 Convention.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Wednesday, May 26, 2010 4:23 PM

Hey,PLASTICJUNKIE! I am glad you wrote this.This goes to show that you don,t really need a whole plethora of super tools.Just a good lot of common sense helps more than anything else.TANKERBUILDER

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Thursday, May 27, 2010 9:21 AM

I built my own "bending" tool from a piece of aluminum plate plus a couple of K&S stainless steel strips. I use it only on large assemblies, however.  For small pieces that need bending I just use X-acto knives, one with the chisel blade. I also use X-acto knives (#11 blade) for cutting the pieces from the fret.

I use thinned white glue for gluing PE to the model.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Monday, May 31, 2010 7:33 AM

My absolute favorite tool for dealing with the PE monster is Xuron's shears, no. 440 - you get a nice, square cut, and with a little practice you can get rid of the "nubs" on all but the most delicate PE. They're also great for small diameter brass rod, to get an absolutely square end as opposed to a pointed one.

To get rid of the nubs after removing a piece of PE, I invested in a diamond needle file from Tamiya - it's small enough to fit almost anywhere, and usually only a few strokes are needed to get rid of the nub. Which is wayyyyyyy better than my old way of trying to trim it down with a razor blade!

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