Non gassing super glue

It doesn't matter much, what kind of super glue you use, as long as you watch out. There are a few things to observe - good ventilation/air flow reduces the fogging effect, and if you glue clear parts, coating them with future helps to prevent it too. If you get some practice with the regular type of super glue, you won't have to bother with the "non gassing". Good luck with your projects and have a nice day

Paweł

What wrong with using the same cement you use to assemble the rest of the model? I use my liquid solvent without any issues.

You can also use good old fashion white glue if you're worried about CA fumes fogging your canopy's interior.

Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4

Thankyou for your replies but I model OO scale very much scratchbuilt so often I’m gluing very different materials together so a solvent wouldn’t be suitable. Being so small ventilation is a problem & months later you can still smell the gas. Often using bits of kits e.g. I glue clear plastic windscreens into white metal vehicles, super glue is good cos it’s so thin, I drip it (with a needle) around the edge, apart from being too thick to do this, I don’t think white glue sticks to metal. I’ve only had good results with non gassing super glue, it would be really good if I could find some again.

For gluing clear plastic to plastic, I use regular old Elmer's white glue.  Dries clear and is harmless to clear plastic.

Zap used to do a product called Zap O Odorless, which has now been re-branded as Zap O Odorless Foam Safe;

http://www.zapglue.com/Foam.html

The only thing going against it is it's drying time, Zap advising that Kicker (Foam Safe Kicker) be used, but it will cure without kicker.

The only super glue that I've run across that wont fog clear plastic is Loctite 408. I use it at work. The cost on it is about $25. for 20 grams.

For clear parts I use clear silicone or Testors glue that's made for clear. A lot of people recommend Canopy glue.

Hello,

if all you want is not to have the windows fog up, I read that Future floor polish helps

I have never tried it myself

I read it.

james

   Yep, I use Future on all my clear parts and I've super glued many of them.  Never had a fogging issue.  Hope this helps.

Do you coat the part, (exept the edge to be glued) with 'Future' ?

I like the CA that Wave(Japan) makes. Comes in either string or quick setting, non-fogging and very low in odour. Nice thing each package of 3 tubes comes with 2 K-nozzles for ultra-fine applications.

You can buy extra K-nozzles separate.

K-nozzle:

http://www.hlj.com/product/WAVOP-081

I use a lot of their stuff for super-detailing, scratch-building, etc.

For bonding different dissimilar materials to each other such as Styrene, Butyrate and Acrylic, I use the Plastruct product "Plastic Weld".  It works great.  You can find their product at www.plastruct.com  i use it and love It!

They have a huge variety of materials, shapes, thicknesses, aswell as other scratch building materials that can make your head swim.  Check them out.

Also, coating windows with some general clearcoat can fit the bill. 

Hope this helps.

John

I just got it in the mail, what with the earthquake etc. it took a little while. I've just tested it, it has very low odour but leaves slight fogging along the edge of the glueline. I used to use 'Magic' non gassing super glue, it didn't fog at all. All of a sudden, I couldn't find it anywhere (maybe they stopped making it).
    So, I'm going to try 'Future', I live in Australia & I've not seen it but next time I shop I'll see; if it's not available here can you use any sort of floor polish? Do you coat the part/window with 'Future' exept for the edge to be glued?

I meant to say 'it' being Wave. Thankyou Mad modeler.

I went to shops & no-one has heard of 'Future' so I guess it's not available in Australia, I'm going to try & find it on the web so I can try & get an equivalent but if anyone knows please tell me.
    Re Wave glue, I tested ordinary superglue & it fogged far less, which makes me wonder if they sent the ordinary superglue by mistake; I can't tell by the writing, cos it's in Japanese which I can't read.
    Milairjunkie said Zap O Odourless Foam Safe, I've only been able to find that with 5 - 10 or 10 - 25 sec drying time which doesn't seem very slow to me & I couldn't find a kicker, how slow is slow drying time? I'm in Cairns, I see in Sydney they've got 'Zap O Odourless' nothing about drying time & they've also got 'Zip kicker' not Zap but it's probly the same.

I am in the US, but I think in Australia that Future clear acrylic floor polish goes by the name Clear or Klear or somesuch. Look in the household cleaners section. 

That could be right, overhere in Belgium no non-modeller has ever heard of a product called "Future", however most housewives know the name "Klir" wich is exactly the same.  A help would be to take whatever Johnsson product you have and call the number on the package (or send an email) and ask what the product is called in your country.

EasyMike

For gluing clear plastic to plastic, I use regular old Elmer's white glue.  Dries clear and is harmless to clear plastic.

Ditto. Though I thin it 50/50 with water. Works just fine.

I once tried a fancy-schmancy “crystal clear” glue and [whatsacominago] was I ever happy that I’d tried it on the sprue first! Disaster!

You could find out the conditions the police use to get fingerprints using superglue vapour...this maximizes the white powdery effect...and then do the opposite. They boil the superglue and blow the vapour over the place where they want to see the fingerprints.

The main point for keeping a canopy clear, I believe, is to reduce the amount of vapour, so you can use a CA glue that has a higher boiling point, or keep your model cool whilst the glue sets.