adjustable stand (twin mount) mk1

the idea for this popped into my head at 1 am last week so i ran downstairs and sketched before i forgot lol
its nice and simple but effective
this mount id for a revel 1/32 scale phantom so its a biggy

iv used 18mm mdf purely because thats whats i had available.
heres what tools are needed



6 screws (i used 50mm x 4mm)
small drill bit for a pilot hole (3mm for 4mm screws)
slightly bigger bit for clearence hole (4.5-5mm for 4mm screws)
big bit for mounting rod holes (i used 10mm rods for this plane i use 8mm for more normal size models)
counter sink bit
screwdriver bit
a drill or 4 (4 saves swapping bits all the time)
wood saw (i used a circ saw and a chop saw which make it much faster and easier but you can use a handsaw if your accurate)
tape measure
set square
pencil



1st piece to cut is the base plate i go for just bigger than the model (the model will overhang the front a bit when its mounted) it means you can transport them safely just by packing under the nose if you need to transport it




next up are the back plates and 2 identicle side plates all 3 should be the same height
i make the back plate just a bit wider than the tail of the model and high enough to allow the model to clear the base when mounted at an angle




the depth of the side plates dictate the pitch angle that you can display the model depper = higher angle
the depth at the top ie the smallest should be as close to the thickness of the back plate (18mm in my case)



thats it for cutting only 4 pieces are needed
it doesnt matter much which order you assemble the stand but i screw the backplate and the side plates together 1st (only 2 screws needed)

i clamped the back plate and lined a side plate flush with it



i went 10mm from the top and dead centre (9mm) on BOTH sideplates use the smallest bit 1st and go straight through the sideplate into the backplate this is the hinge (and support) screw.
then move the side plates off and go through them with a bigger clearence hole then countersink the outside edge

its important to get both hinge screws in the same place to prevent twist when you move the backplate

mark the center of the backplate AND the base plate then mark where the edges of the backplate where it meets the base plate (this sets the sideplate positions and is very critical)
use the set square and mark the base plate to align the sideplates (easier to do on the bottom for drilling)
drill 2 holes per side in the base plate then countersink the bottom
if you do this spot on then the back plate will be tight enough to support the model without the need for any support pins through the sideplates

thats the stand built now you need to drill the mounting holes

mark the vertical centerline on the backplate and mark the height of the mounting holes (i went for 100mm from the base)

measure center to center of the mounting rods
the best way to do this is to measure 1 edge to the same edge on the other rod in my case its 40 mm



mark 20mm either side of the centerline at the mounting height (100mm for me) DONT DRILL THEM YET
before you drill them pick 1 of the marks and mark anohter hole at an angle (40mm apart for me) this is the banked mounting hole

if you have 1 mounting rod then you just need 1 hole on the ceterline job done

it should look something like this





the prototype




theres nothing to stop you mounting it inverted lol
if you make it snug enough then the back plate will support the model on its own i made very snug and i have to tap it to move it
this took less time to design and build than it did to do this write up lol