Cathay 747

Ah yes, Jonas... now your're getting into it neck deep!!!      Fun isn't it?

Beautiful work; watching with interest!

Take care,

Frank

Here are some photo updates to my model:

This model shows the external and interior of the fuselage halves. I glued in plastic strips on the inside of the windows and filled the windows with squadrons white putty followed by their green putty to finish. Using a contour gauge, I took the curvature near the rear end and created closed off the back end so that no one can look up through the APU exhaust.

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/:550:0]

This shows the fuselage half with the weight added. I took a stack of pennies and glued them together with epoxy, and then using my heat gun I thermoformed a piece of styrene enclosing the pennies then glued the whole thing to the rear of the nose gear bay.

How I made the ribs for the leading edge and kruger flap sections. I took a piece of styrene and traced the "box" outline. Divided the space into even spaces, 1/4" outboard, 7/32" middle, and 13/64" for the inboard areas. Glued them onto the lines, then trimmed and glued the pieces to the inside of the wing.

This photo shows a comparison between one wing completed, and the other uncompleted.

This is all I have for now. I will get the fuselage halves closed up after I paint the inside black to prevent light bleed through. Then I'll get the wings closed up after I enclose the flap areas.

Let me know what your thoughts are.

Maybe somebody here could help you out.

http://www.diecastaircraftforum.com/custom-made-models/

Just so happens I used several photos of a Kalita 742 as reference while building the flaps on mine.

Here's some decals I found at Airline Hobbies in Arizona...

http://www.airline-hobby.com/shop/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=12493

About the closest Cathay Pacific colors I've found are for an A340/330... don't know if they can be retrofitted to a 744 or not though...

http://www.airline-hobby.com/shop/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=13786

Take care, and look forward to seeing the work begin.

Frank

My dad is a Kalitta 747 pilot, furloughed though. I'm thinking about doing a half Cathay Cargo and a half Kalitta Cargo model. What about Kalitta decals, any one know of a source?

Thanks for all the info from every one. I will post pics of my progress.

Cathay Pacific 744 decals are tough.  Neither Hannants, AHS or ebay have them atm.  The best bet may be to email draw, two six, fd decal or any other decal maker and see if they might do it.  Also BMF planes do look really good.  Another bonus no one mentions when foiling is that you can do a small section and then walk away come back and apply more.   Big plus for zero drying/cure time.

And as far as the corrections of the Revell 744 kit, there are two main concerns: the wing root angle and the nose (to include the area above the cockpit.

Hope this helps,

Frank

Hi Jonas,

   I haven't been making photos of the current 741 project because my daughter has my camera... but I will attempt to explain the process using photos from a recent 1/200th scale project, and add comments where it is called for.

   First off, here are some reference photos that you'll need for the process:  

http://floatingmid.com/747flapguides.jpg 

http://floatingmid.com/747flapguides2.jpg 

http://floatingmid.com/Undercarriageb747.jpg 

http://floatingmid.com/Kflaps.jpg

http://floatingmid.com/VCflaps.jpg 

Here's a link to the process using the Hasegawa 744, which is basically the same as with the Revell kit, except you should leave the thin strip fwd of the VC Flap opening (on the hasegawa kit it's too small).   

 http://floatingmid.com/flap747.htm  

(To strengthen plastic joints, drill small hole with a pin vise and insert cut christmas tree ornament hanger wire sections)

Here's a couple alternative ways to secure the flaps:

http://floatingmid.com/flapbraces11.jpg

http://floatingmid.com/1pieceflapSlatbrace.jpg

-------------------------------

For the foiling process you will need:

(1) Roll of Reynolds Wrap aluminum foil...

(2) Raddle-Can of Testors Gloss Coat....

(3) Round, smooth 1/2 inch thick/4 inches long aluminum hobby knife handle (no blade)....

(4) Selection of fine-point SHARP (new) bobby knives...

(5) Thick, glossy covered magazine...

(6) Package of #0000 steel wool....

(7) various grades of sandpaper from medium to VERY fine...

(8) clean cloth diaper

Step one:   Sand the fuselage smooth overall first with the sandpaper, then with the steel wool (any imperfections will stand out like a sore thumb after the foil is applied)

Step two:   Clean the fuselage with mild detergent, dry, and wipe with tack cloth to remove ALL lent.

Step three:   Spray overall with Testors Gloss Coat and allow it to dry at least 6 hours in a dust free area.

Step four:  Using a piece of foil, wrap it around a section of the fuselage (shiney side out) and rub it with your thumb (from top to bottom) to make it smooth, do this until you encounter a wrinkle, stop there, remove the foil and cut out the smooth section using the sharp blade.  (vertical & horizontal cuts relative to the fuselage only)

Step five:   Lay the excised piece on the glossy magazine (shiney side out), and using the round hobby knife handle, roll it across the foil (vertically) which will completely smooth out the foil.

Step six:   Spray some of the Gloss Coat into the raddle can lid, then using a paint brush, brush some gloss coat onto the plastic where the foil section goes. (let it get tacky before applying) (the tacky gloss coat forms a bond with the dried gloss coat on the plastic when it dries, much like glue, thus securely affixing the foil)

Step seven:  Carefully place the foil onto the plastic at one end, then progressively smooth it in place with your fingers until it covers the selected area.     (if there are any imperfections, simply smooth them out by gently rubbing *not rolling* the round hobby knife handle across it) (this will mar the surface but it can be buffed out later with the steel wool)

       Repeat this process until the fuselage is covered, using the end of the last applied piece as a mark on the next piece ***vertical joints should be end to end, NOT overlapping... horizonal joints should overlap top to bottom***

      Once the foil is applied, buff with the steel wool VERTICALLY from top to bottom (do this lightly until an overall affect is achieved), then buff with the clothe diaper vertically from top to bottom until the desired sheen is achieved.   (NEVER buff against the foil joints, buff with them)       To create worn panels, place a section of trimmed paper over the foil and buff extra in that area.

      This is a tedious process but produces beautiful results; recommend practicing on a trash model first.      Example:

http://floatingmid.com/mid20.jpg

http://floatingmid.com/mid33.jpg

http://floatingmid.com/if4.jpg

http://floatingmid.com/NMengine3.jpg

http://floatingmid.com/foilbelly1.jpg

http://floatingmid.com/foilbelly2.jpg

http://floatingmid.com/foilbelly3.jpg

   I can't help you with the decals, but there are various decal resources where you can check, such as JoyDecals, Airline Hobby Supply, Jennings, etc.

   Hope this helps some, and will be happy to assist you however I can, just ask.

Take care,

Frank

Great, thanks. I would like to hear what you have. Take your time.

Hi Jonas,

   I'm currently working on a Revell 747-100, which is being built in take-off configuration, so I can help you with the flapping process.     Also, if you're doing the -400 (and I don't know how accurate you're wanting to make it), but there are a couple other areas on the Revell kit that need attention which vastly improves it's appearance on the shelf.

   Additionally, I have used household aluminum foil to replicate NM; there's a couple tricks to it that will make the job easier and turn out an astonishingly realistic finish!

   It's too late to get into it all tonight, but I will post more tomorrow if that will be okay.

   Take care,

   Frank