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White finish

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  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Ridott, Illinois
White finish
Posted by Banshee1000 on Monday, May 30, 2011 10:46 PM

I'm having some trouble with the white finish for my Revell A319.  I'm using Tamiya White Fine Surface primer over the plastic and the bondo primer for some of the seams, but I'm having trouble covering the red surface (especially all the windows I filled).  I don't recall this problem in the past, but it's been some time since I've built an airliner.  Should I just keep on with the Tamiya coats (remembering that Tamiya primer is getting rare) or use another finish?

Thank you for your thoughts.

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Tuesday, May 31, 2011 7:31 AM

One of the problems with using a dark contrasting colored primer is applying a light colored especially white or yellow afterwards. I prefer using a light blue or light gray or white glazing compound for that reason. 3M Acryl glazes.

Apply a couple coats of light gray or flat white. If you use gray you'll need to apply a coat of flat white over it.

Let each cure before going on to the next step.

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, May 31, 2011 8:21 AM

I'd say more primer coats rather than more color coats. In fact, I don't apply color coats until I can see no sign of color through the primer.  Also, I use a full-bodied auto body or general purpose primer (usually Krylon) to ensure no bleed through. I have found many of the plastic model primers to lack opacity.

Now, the primers I use do tend to obsure fine surface detail and that is a drawback to them.  But for airliners and other civil aircraft this is often not as much of a problem as they have a lot of paint on them.  I think the surface detail and panel lines are overdone on many kits anyways.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

Moderator
  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: my keyboard dreaming of being at the workbench
Posted by Aaron Skinner on Wednesday, June 8, 2011 9:42 AM

You might dry a gray primer before the white. It should cover better and give you a neutral surface for the white.

Andas Gerald said, using a light colored filler will make covering it easier.

 

Cheers, Aaron

Aaron Skinner

Editor

FineScale Modeler

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Scotland
Posted by Milairjunkie on Wednesday, June 8, 2011 10:41 AM

A light silver is also a good backdrop for white & it makes a good job of covering up irregularities like you mention.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Thursday, June 9, 2011 8:55 AM

Milairjunkie

A light silver is also a good backdrop for white & it makes a good job of covering up irregularities like you mention.

Indeed.  A silver or aluminum color is usually the most opaque of any, so it is always available as a last resort.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Ridott, Illinois
Posted by Banshee1000 on Sunday, June 12, 2011 1:00 AM

It covered fine after just a few more coats...guess I got a little anxious.

Thanks so much for all the replies and good ideas.

Alan

  • Member since
    January 2008
Posted by Phatsamurai on Thursday, June 23, 2011 7:25 PM

 use Armory white primer, it can be found at most miniature gaming stores or online, 6 buks for a full size can. ir covers great. they I use testors Wet look clear over the top, decal and clear!

I will build anything!

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