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need some help.

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  • Member since
    March 2016
need some help.
Posted by ardvark002 on Monday, May 30, 2016 8:29 PM

hi all,  was going to post this to tecnihes but noticed site isn't used much. first off i want to give kadoos to all small scale builders, i'm workin on it. my question is this. how do you hold the parts where they belong while glueing? [evelators, wings, as most sml scale don't have indexing pins. I have been using a micro line of reg. old testors orange tube to tack while holding, then use some thin ca, but really hard to hold peices in line till then. can you make fast tack permanent? thanks for any help. I,ve always built 1/48th up. I've just realized how many real interesting 1/72/nd aircraft kits are out there. thanks again.  ardvark

  • Member since
    August 2010
  • From: Beaverton, OR
Posted by Ghostrider114 on Tuesday, May 31, 2016 1:03 AM

Thin CA glue should set up within seconds.  Infact, it should set up faster then the testors cement.  You can dab some accellerant on the joint to make it set even faster too.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, May 31, 2016 8:46 AM

I generally use gel CA glue, which does not set up immediately- it takes a minute or two. I use it because the fit on plastic model kits is frequently not perfect, and the use of the gel means I don't have to file or sand each joint to fit perfectly.  Second, it gives me some working time to get the angle/alignment perfect.  So, I sympathize with the original post.  Sometimes I set up a simple jig or support to hold the part in alignment. If I do not want to do that, I keep a bottle of CA accelerator handy, and have made an application tool for it.  I put a big of gel CA on the part, or where it will go, set it down briefly, and load up my application tool with a drop of accelerator.  Holding the part in place as best I can, I then touch my applicator tool to the joint, hardening the gel CA virtually intently.

My application tool is a large sewing needle stuck into a length of dowel ( point into the dowel, eye hanging out).  Then, I grind off half the eye of the needle with a dremel and abrasive disk, leaving a fork, which holds a drop of accelerator.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    May 2006
Posted by Rob Beach on Sunday, June 12, 2016 1:03 AM

A selection of basic Lego's can be used as the basis for an alignment jig.  Starting with a 'building plate' (the flat sheet with the pegs used for 'buildings'), you can use bricks to establish reference points of contact, similar in concept to a pegging plate.  Because models don't fall exactly on the Lego peg intervals, I use flat foam material from food packaging as shims to make up the difference (key is to use fresh, undamaged pieces of consistent thickness to maintain symmetry.)

Barring a box of Lego parts, a jig can be cut from sturdy cardboard (using a scaled 3-view) and assembled so to cradle all the subassemblies in proper position.  Just make sure the base is flat (I've used the weight of canned goods to keep the base sheet 'clamped' on a kitchen counter...)  One big advantage besides cost is while Legos can be accidently glued together, the cardboard is immune to plastic solvents.

Regards, Robert

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