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Building a Revell Super Connie now. At least the instructions say how much weight I need (15 gm). But, cramming that much weight well forward in that streamlined nose is a big issue. One of the main problems is packing factor. Unless you have a cast solid weight, the effective density of the weight is reduced because spheres and other shaped objects cannot be packed together to fill 100% of the volume. I forget what the packing factor of spheres is- I think it is around 75%. And, by the laws of geometry, unintuitively, it does not depend on the size of the particle! Using smaller spheres, it stays the same number. With the price of kits rising a lot lately, seems to me they could include a cast weight on tri-gear planes! We need to let kit mfgs know we would really appreciate them.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
I build Tamiya's Me262, that came with a metal part to form the top of the wheel well. It greatly eased to construction. No guessing if you got too much or too little. Fitted where it was to be. On airliners, even the proper ballast to lay in bottom of the fuseluge, and maybe the nose gear strut to take the weight.
Would you keep us posted on how the build goes? The Super Connie is one of my more coveted kits but the only one I can locate in on Amazon for $104 and that isn't going to happen. I'd love to see it reissued at the same time someone offers a totally new P-38 (are you listening Tamiya?).
If you keep an eye on eBay should be able to nab one for $ 70 or so. It's worth it.
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
There is one on ebay, different boxing but same mold:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-G-Constellation-1-144-Military-Monogram-Unstarted-But-Missing-Instructions/362173680492?hash=item54533bcb6c:g:X6IAAOSwYxBaIIuP
13.50 inc shipping
The seller is wrong AFA the scale. That's a rebox of the old Revell L1049. It's at about 1/130 (box) scale. That one is desirable in TWA livery.
There is a Revell of Germany 1/144 Super G around, which is a rebox of a Minicraft kit.
There is also a minicraft connie for $20 on ebay.
I rarely use ebay so I didn't look. Thanks for the info.
Good grief! I hadn't realized they were going for that much money! Boy, I am glad I got mine when I did!
Unless the Connie is a grade above the normal minicraft kit, the Revell kit is definitely a step up. Not sure a factor of 5, however. I have built a number of the Minicraft airliners- not bad, but that Revell kit is really pretty nice. Not sure I would pay over a hundred, though. Maybe spring for the seventy, though.
I sent an e-mail to revell suggesting that they include nose weights in their kits. I received a reply from Revell saying that my suggestion was a good idea and that they would consider it. That was two years ago.
Your comments and questions are always welcome.
Have you guys heard of Liquid Gravity by deluxe?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtfsWZ7LnvU
WIP:Academy F-18 (1/72)
On Deck
MH-60G 1:48 (Minicraft)
C-17 1/144
KC-135R 1/144
Academy F-18(1/72)
Ting Ting Ting, WTF is that....
Peaches Have you guys heard of Liquid Gravity by deluxe? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtfsWZ7LnvU
Interesting. Anyone know who handles this product?
I don't like the idea of using too much CA in one spot, and a two part catalyzed mix might raise thermal issues. I suspect one would need a very slow setting adhesive.
I know you can get it from anyone that orders from Walthers (https://www.walthers.com/liquid-gravity-240g) or you can order it right from them.
https://www.hobbytown.com/liquid-gravity-250g-by-deluxe-materials-dlmbd38/p186992
Some kind of non-toxic metal sand. I suppose it might be useful to pour it onto plastic wrap inside the model. That might keep the CA from attacking the plastic.
G. Beaird,
Pearland, Texas
CrashTestDummyHmm. I'd expect any space ahead of the main gear would help. Is there space in the engine nacelles to add weight? Regards, Gene Beaird, Pearland, Texas
The moment arm- the distance between the weight and the desired balance point (main gear) is very important. Nose may be five or six inches forward of gear, and 10 grams of weight placed five inches forward of gear will have five times the effect as the same weight placed one inch from gear. That means only 1/5 the weight needed if you put it far forward. If you placed it only half inch in front of gear, you'd need ten times the weight.
Adding Cavorite in the tail might work.
Thanks,
John
I recently went to the amazon site and searched for inexpensive scales. The one I found was called a Food Scale, and went for fourteen bucks plus change. Fortunately, both tri-gear models I have worked on since I bought the scale had the weight needed shown on plans. It is sure nice being able to weigh out some weight and have some confidence I won't have a tail sitter, but neither of these projects are on their own wheels yet.
Hardest problem is finding a spot to put enough weight in, and cutting and fitting enough weight from my weight drawer. I am thinking, for future projects that have restricted space I will whittle a piece of wood and then make a plaster cast. I have a little toy soldier making kit with an electric pot to melt low temp material, and have bought some of that material from Micro Mark. It doesn't have as high a density as lead, but I am hoping the increased packing factor will make up for lower density. Lead solder is getting hard to find!
Look on the ground for wheel weights as well.
Buddy- Those who say there are no stupid questions have never worked in customer service.
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