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"Flash Out!" - 120mm OIF figure ( COMPLETE!!! )

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  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: East TX
"Flash Out!" - 120mm OIF figure ( COMPLETE!!! )
Posted by modelchasm on Saturday, January 31, 2009 3:18 AM

The background: Since returning from my last deployment to Iraq, I haven't been able to shake the need to model things from my memory. I tried to continue working WWII era projects that I started BEFORE deploying again, but they just aren't interesting to me right now. So, I started doing research and I'm sure that most of you already figured out just what I did ... that when kits say modern, they mean 1990'ish. Fortunatly, there are kits that are slowly starting to come out from OIF/ OEF era. However, most of these are 1/35 and I really wanted to work at least at the 120mm scale.

The kit: ... or at least the base for the whole thing, is Verlinden's 101st Airborne Figure.

 

I also used the head and most of the gear from a few different Airborne Miniature 120mm figures that I've got saved.

On to the build: Upon looking at everything that I had, I figured I had to start somewhere. So, I started with the rebuild of the vest. The Verlinden figure has the older style vest issued around 2001 and before. I wanted my fig to have the OTV vests that we wore in '07. In looking at the picture, on the left side is still pretty much original. On the right, I've sanded down the Camelbak straps and replaced the molle straps on the vest. I've also sanded off the blouse tails from under the vest, as we always tucked in our tails. Surprisingly, there was a lot of putty that had to go into fitting the fig together.

 

After getting the fit right, I had to turn the DCU uniform into the new ACU's. About the only things that I wasn't able to fix were the slanted thigh pockets and the triple pen pockets on the left sleeve. I guess I could have, but I didn't really want to mess up the deep folds that were in these areas. I added upper arm and calf pockets with sheet styrene and alum from a coke can. The original "jungle" soles on the boots were sanded off and replaced with "ripple" soles using putty. Once the putty was hardened, I gave it a CA glue soak just to keep it from crumbling at the edges. The vest also go a kelvar yoke/ collar, and a kevlar throat protector from sheet styrene.

The M4 had a few pieces that were replaced with better casts from Airborne Miniatures. Most specifically the SureFire and the ACOG, as I had these on my weapon before changing over to the M14 ... (see my other post "M14 dilemma", as I had wanted to use it here instead of the M4). Oh well. The helmet had to be sort-of reconstructed. The Verlinden kit came with a PASGT helmet, so I sanded off the front lip and did a little sanding near the "ears", added some band straps on the back and a couple IR square and we were good to go. However, there was one hurdle left ... the MVG mount. We always kept ours mounted, so I had to figure out how to scratch build one. After much deliberation, I went with small pieces of alum from a can, two short pieces of wire (and a lot of CA glue) and poof and NVG mount. Since the helmet band was in the way, I sanded it down as well, mounted the NVG mount, and then replaced the helmet band used masking tape.

 

I had thought about leaving all the gear off, painting and then assembling everything, but I hated the thought of having all these little pieces to keep up with ... so I hung the gear ....

A week or two went by, mostly b/c of work, but also b/c I wasn't sure what to do next. So I dove right in to priming and sand

ing ... wash, rinse, repeat.

 

 

Which bring me to the present. I had Friday off, so I started in with the face. I love Vallejo acrylics for the skin areas. I think they give the best finish. I'm also using MM acrylics for washes and for the uniform and gear. The face got 2x base coats of light flesh, an overall wash of burnt umber with a touch of warm flesh color, and then the shadows darkened with burnt umber with touch of dark gray. I found the darks to be a little much as the face will be surrounded by a black chin strap, so I gave the highlighting process a little more attention than normal. I still may go back over it again. I just thought I'd leave it along until I heard from the gallery.

Base coats...

 

Washed ...

 

Shadowed ....

and highlighted ...

The "shades" will be getting multiple treatments of Future.

I also decided to try and settle my nerves about the ACU pattern by tackling the helmet. I figured it wouldn't take too long .... boy was I wrong!!! I've been following "Maki's" write-up on painting the ACU pattern and it's worked out great. The only difference that I've found is that when I tried to follow the colors he used. I came out with something that looked like multi-cam...

So, I broke out an old pair of ACU's from the deployment ... faded, torn, old ... and began to match colors. Literally painting the ACU's themselves to get the right match. Suprisingly enough, I ended up using NO GREEN AT ALL. The colors matched perfectly using only shades of grey with a deck tan base color. I didn't get it as pixilated at I really wanted, but I think that it comes across ok in the scale.

That's pretty much it for right now. Please be honest and let me know where I can improve on this.

I will be starting in on the rest of the uniform, vest, and gear in the morning .... after my "chores" are done first of course.

Oh yea ... the base/ dio ... haven't even touched it yet. However, the figure will be just outside a doorway preparing to throw in a flash-bang grenade (forgot ... I modified the hand as well.) The original pose was propped up and didn't look all that natural to me. However, when you took the fig off the "rock" and put both feet on flat ground, it looks like he's got forward momentum .... Now we're talkin'!!!

Again, please be honest so I can improve this build. Thanks for letting me rant and thanks to those that have helped me along the way thus far.

"If you're not scratching, you're not trying!"  -Scott

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Colorado
Posted by psstoff995 on Saturday, January 31, 2009 4:52 AM

WOW! Well it's getting real late but I HAD to check this out- and I must say

Scratchbuilding + firsthand knowledge = one awesome step by step

The equipment and uniform updates are awesome- a lot of ROTC guys around where I'm at and... well- without the large velco patches- those pen/pencil pockets are hard to notice anyway. I remember thinking the same thing when I put this kit together- if Verlinden gets one thing right it's their sweet folds- really deep and intricate

I will agree with you though, it was like the legs and torso were from 3 different kits- a lot of putty there! In fact it was how I was introduced to the stuff- there was no way I could have built mine up without it.

I think by simply switching out the head on this guy you've greatly improved and modernized the kit

The ACU on the helmet had me worried at first until I caught up with the reading- that does look like multicam!

Good save- the redo looks just like the ACU! -that's really strange that it's all grays and tans, I would have been mixing greens for ever!

Love what you did with the M4 as well- looks much nicer than the OOB one and again- another key part to bring this guy up to date. Again- there's only so much I can actually critique on- the NVG mount looks awesome- and the little loops on the shoulders of the vest- the right one is scrunched in/higher up than the left one! You even got the vest loops physics taken care of! That's too cool, I would have never even thought of that.

All I have are questions really- is the round thing on his chest a radio toggle switch of some kind?

What did you make the flex cuffs out of? Just thin styrene?

The metal looking paper clip kinda piece sticking out of his left cargo pocket- is that... to hold the gas mask bag or some other accessory?

I really like the idea of painting the straps/radio wires to the weapon/head

That simplifies things for sure! I'm going to wind up trying to manipulate my materials with tweasers to get them on... and then probably painting them after the fact Sigh [sigh]

Good work sir! Good work indeed.

If I can say anything at all to help out with the ACU, it looks as if you might have gone in an up and down motion with a little blob of paint- again like you said, at this scale it looks fine and very much representative of the pattern, I might sugest (and this is if you didn't try this as I can't tell) is to try and paint the finer "dots" in almost a hatching and cross hatching kind of way.

For the singular dots at 1/16 scale, if I were to include them- it would probably be with a toothpick as sugested in Maki, however what I decided (partially out of laziness I'll be honest) was at the scale it was doing me more harm than good to try and represent individual marks, so I figured they were "too small" to be seen and instead went for the larger marks-

This is a REALLY BAD! concept drawing I made in photoshop using my laptop touchpad mouse so definitly not the best- the colors are off and the percentage of coverage is nowhere close- the steps are basically the same as Maki- but instead of painting in large areas- it's all built up in straight lines which IMO helped me (might not work for you/anyone else though, everyone has their own style and grove) to keep things at 90 degree angles and the idea of digital pixles all looking somewhat on par.

Not saying you did it wrong or it doesn't look good, just trying to tell you how I got there incase you were looking for a different method

I'd also try experimenting with different brush sizes/toothpick point vs the thin/angled edge kind of "stamped" on to make a line? But it's looking really nice so far, just the only thing I thought I could try and give some constructive feedback on, everything else either looks amazing or makes me wonder why I didn't think of it!

Here's my old version of the same kit- maybe you'll understand why I'm totally blown away Tongue [:P]

-Chris

US Army Infantryman

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: East TX
Posted by modelchasm on Saturday, January 31, 2009 10:13 AM

Thanks Chris,

To get to some of your questions ... and real quick, cause I'm supposed to be doing the yard, TEE HEE! ...

The flex-cuff are simply made from strips of masking tape, w/ a PE buckle from the parts bin.

The wire coming out from the back side of the pants pockets are a pull-string that sinches up the thigh pockets. I find them HIGHLY annoying, so I usually cut mine out, but I thought they added a little bit to modernize the uniform.

The biggest problem that I've had with the "toothpick" method by Maki, is that I've found you have to redip for each "dot", touch it to a paper towel to get the excess off, and then the pick MUST BE AT 90 degrees. Otherwise you end up with an actual dot. The only other hard part about the ACU pattern I've found is that while it's somewhat based on the tiger stripe camo, the ACU pattern isn't as blatantly horizontal .... although, you're overall pattern should be. But yes, after looking at it this morning, I'm going to go back and try to sharpen up the pixels on the helmet. I may try using a sewing needle instead.

Just my My 2 cents [2c].

Will post more later today.

"If you're not scratching, you're not trying!"  -Scott

  • Member since
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  • From: Colorado
Posted by psstoff995 on Saturday, January 31, 2009 12:13 PM

haha have fun with the yard!

Masking tape huh? I noticed you used that on the helmet too, I'll have to try that out, it looks like it turns out nice.

 modelchasm wrote:

The biggest problem that I've had with the "toothpick" method by Maki, is that I've found you have to redip for each "dot", touch it to a paper towel to get the excess off, and then the pick MUST BE AT 90 degrees. Otherwise you end up with an actual dot.

Ah, that makes senes then- it sounds like quite the process- after looking at some ACU pictures and comparing them to MARPAT- I realize the totorial I drew up (the way I had painted my MARPAT) doesn't really translate to the ACU as you and Maki are right, it is more of a "Tigerstripe" pattern of somekind layered into the mix. The MARPAT just has a dash of the darker color in little stand alone sections- ACU does have everything all in the mix at once.

The sewing needle tip sounds promising, you might also concider thinning the paint a little bit to avoid that ball like surface tention build up of paint? Unless the paper towel meathod is easier to control (actually, I have a problem with my thinned paint and it gets too runny)

 modelchasm wrote:

But yes, after looking at it this morning, I'm going to go back and try to sharpen up the pixels on the helmet. I may try using a sewing needle instead.

That's an important part of the hobby to, is stepping back for a while and then looking at it with fresh eyes. Again, it's not that it came out bad, I think some sharpening up, maybe the sewing needle- some kind of final stage of- "ok, now it's done" as it looks like it's right on that edge of finished.

I've also found that giving a complex paint job like this an overal wash with a common color and some shadding and stuff like that also seams to help. But you definitly have the skills and the patience to make this one turn out great!

Look forward to your updates.

-Chris

US Army Infantryman

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: East TX
Posted by modelchasm on Saturday, January 31, 2009 3:33 PM

I'm not too worried about the color right now. It'll definately help once the washes and shadows go on. I'm planned on weathering the helmet and vest pretty good as they were used all the time.

However, I do agree that the sharpness needs to be cleaned up a bit. I'm going to try and use a needle to clean it up and then from here on out for the pixelation.

Anyone else have any suggestions or comments ... Kind-of flying around with only one set of eyes looking at this thing. And my wife's, "It looks good honey", doesn't really count.

"If you're not scratching, you're not trying!"  -Scott

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Colorado
Posted by psstoff995 on Saturday, January 31, 2009 3:51 PM
 modelchasm wrote:

Kind-of flying around with only one set of eyes looking at this thing. And my wife's, "It looks good honey", doesn't really count.

I know how that can be, something about the figure forums tend slow down responses.

I'm sure you'll get some good critiques and suggestions, problem is it might sit fo a bit before that happens. Good to hear about the weathering and the hard use and good luck on the sharpness, I'm confidant you'll figure it out Smile [:)]

Edit- I scrolled up to find all the links for your pictures broken- I went down to the URL and scrolled through your photobucket- they're still there, did you rename them or reorganize them into a folder? For whatever reason they show up as "moved or deleted".  Confused [%-)]

-Chris

US Army Infantryman

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: East TX
Posted by modelchasm on Saturday, January 31, 2009 4:07 PM

Here's the only update that I've really got for today.

Added about 3x coats of Future to the sunglasses ... REALLY made the face "pop" ...

Hopefully will get some more work done this evening.

"If you're not scratching, you're not trying!"  -Scott

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: East TX
Posted by modelchasm on Saturday, January 31, 2009 4:09 PM

Yea, I was messing around with PB .... I fixed all the links though, so the world should be good again.

"If you're not scratching, you're not trying!"  -Scott

  • Member since
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  • From: Colorado
Posted by psstoff995 on Saturday, January 31, 2009 4:10 PM
 modelchasm wrote:

Yea, I was messing around with PB .... I fixed all the links though, so the world should be good again.

Oh ok, good deal- and those glasses look great!

-Chris

US Army Infantryman

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Charlottesville Va
Posted by Stern0 on Sunday, February 1, 2009 12:06 AM

Great job so far...really admire you taking on the modern stuff, the camo looks really taxing, looks like you got a handle on it. Yes the glasses are awsome...can't wait to see more.Thumbs Up [tup]

And thank all you hard chargers for serving your country!

Always Faithful U.S.M.C
  • Member since
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  • From: United States
Posted by ww2modeler on Sunday, February 1, 2009 7:35 AM

Wow, that looks great.

David

On the bench:

1/35 Tamiya M26 Pershing-0%

1/144 Minicraft P-38J Lightning-50%

Numerous 1/35 scale figures in various stages if completion.

 

  • Member since
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  • From: East TX
Posted by modelchasm on Sunday, February 1, 2009 9:44 AM

This is a question that psstoff and I have been dicussing. Thought I'd throw it out there since it looks like the thread might be picking up....

When looking at the completed helmet (even after going back and trying to sharpen the pattern up) still looks a little blotchy. However, I've had my nose about 6in from it the whole time. I guess my basic question is this ....

When looking at a 120mm figure, it represents a human about 100m away, right!?! Am I correct in thinking that you wouldn't see the pixelation to begin with? So would this figure look more conviencing if I just got a good pattern down instead of trying to show to pixels? Am I trying to paint a pattern that doesn't fit the scale? .... (Little people******me off!!!)Laugh [(-D]

Thanks Stern, and WW2 for your thoughts. I'll be posting more pics today before the game and then that'll be all she wrote for a few days .... business trips suck.

"If you're not scratching, you're not trying!"  -Scott

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  • From: United States
Posted by ww2modeler on Sunday, February 1, 2009 12:57 PM

That sounds right to me, I mean, unless you are going to be examining it with a magnifying glass up close it should be fine. Wasn't the camoflauge designed to look blended together at long distances anyway? I think it looks fine but in the end its up to you.

David

On the bench:

1/35 Tamiya M26 Pershing-0%

1/144 Minicraft P-38J Lightning-50%

Numerous 1/35 scale figures in various stages if completion.

 

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: East TX
Posted by modelchasm on Sunday, February 1, 2009 3:13 PM
 ww2modeler wrote:

That sounds right to me, I mean, unless you are going to be examining it with a magnifying glass up close it should be fine. Wasn't the camoflauge designed to look blended together at long distances anyway? I think it looks fine but in the end its up to you.

David

The idea behind the digital camo, whether it be ARPAT, MARPAT, .... whatever-PAT, is that there are no "hard" lines in the pattern. So, yes, when you see the uniform from a distance, even at 50m, the colors are are supposed to be softly blended. This too, was another reason for taking the "black" out of the uniform.

Thanks again David for you input. I'm just going to have to paint a little and then back off and take a break for a bit. Even with doing the mid-tone yesterday, I can see about 2 different variations in the pattern. Going to have to fix that before going to the dark-tone.

Super Bowl .... painting .... Super Bowl .... painting? ..... Painting!?!Confused [%-)]

"If you're not scratching, you're not trying!"  -Scott

  • Member since
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  • From: East TX
Posted by modelchasm on Monday, February 2, 2009 12:09 PM

So I did both ... watched the Bowl and painted. Here's a little update on the progress.

This is just the mid-tone applied over the base coat color. Looks a little plain now, but wait until the dark-tone is applied. That's when the tan base coat comes back out.

I've also decided to go back and make the ACU pattern as detailed as possible. I jsut don't want someone to really be looking at the fig close up and say "that's not ACU". However, I'm still on the fence. Would really like to hear some more discussion/ opinions on the color/ pattern vs scale conversation.....

As always, options and crits welcome ..... Thanks.

"If you're not scratching, you're not trying!"  -Scott

  • Member since
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  • From: Colorado
Posted by psstoff995 on Monday, February 2, 2009 3:06 PM

WOW- you got some work done! That looks great so far (ps nice job with the FB grenade and the redone hand- looks like it was part of the kit!)

I agree, you can make it as detailed as possible, but at the same time I don't think that translates to individual pixels per say.

I think once you get the dark on there and then bring out the tan- you can definitly make the tan pixels more broken apart and individual- I think at this scale that will make it look really detailed.

Check out this post link and look at page 5- the ACU was made with decails, but IMO it's as detaild as one can get in 1/35- even with the printed pattern being an exact replica, at a stand-off photographable distance- individual detail and the like kind of blends to an overall singular color/shade for the most part

So I think once you go as detailed as you like and then weather everything to look worn and dusty- you should most likely get it to look pretty acurate from a pretty "close up" kind of distance.

 

-Chris

US Army Infantryman

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: East TX
Posted by modelchasm on Monday, February 2, 2009 4:40 PM

I still think you're right, Chris. I liked the link you sent, but there's just something about the 1/35 ACU decal ... it was so detailed that it looked fake to me!?! (Sorry .. just IMO.)

I think that the idea of "scale" plays huge part in color variation, and camo pattern variations. Over the past few days, I've been doing a lot of reading, online and in books about colors, scales, distances, etc.

I think that you're spot on about after everything is weathered that it'll be ... or at least "look" ... correct.

Hopefully, we'll have the dark-tone on tonight before my trip tomorrow ... the hairdyer is my friend!

"If you're not scratching, you're not trying!"  -Scott

  • Member since
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  • From: Colorado
Posted by psstoff995 on Monday, February 2, 2009 4:55 PM
"it was so detailed that it looked fake to me!?!" I know what you mean, the same idea crossed my mind when I saw Maki's. There's definitly something to say for the skill and patients that kind of detail speaks of, but at the same time, I think it unnaturally brings the uniform into focus- when really the character and setting should jump out as being impressive/well detailed. Here's another example of possibly too much detail for one's own good? Although again, when it comes to matching the 1:1 as best as you can, a very nice job and something to shoot for when it comes to pattern work and the like (although an older 90's figure painted to look modern dispite some older equipment etc.)

-Chris

US Army Infantryman

  • Member since
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  • From: East TX
Posted by modelchasm on Monday, February 2, 2009 5:34 PM

See, the pattern there looks very conviencing, even though I might be inclined to argue if it's really to scale though ... BUT IT LOOKS SO DAMN GOOD!!!! The only thing that I could really say is that the flesh contrasts and the weathering doing really match the level of detail seen in the MARPAT pattern.

.... but it looks so good ................

I'm torn. Detailed to the point of craziness, or detail to scale ..... what to do ... what to do.

Confused [%-)]Taped Shut [XX]Blindfold [X-)]

"If you're not scratching, you're not trying!"  -Scott

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  • From: Colorado
Posted by psstoff995 on Monday, February 2, 2009 5:42 PM

I know what you mean, I can go either way with it. It definitly does look awesome, but I think if one is going to make the pattern as real life as possible they must do the same with EVERYTHING so the uniform doesn't stick out. And yeah- like weathering and a flesh tone etc.

I think what it comes down to is how much time and effort you're willing to spend on it. If you want to go crazy detail I'm sure you could, just make sure you don't neglect other parts of the build. I'm one to believe in a healthy medium, maybe a little more detail than the scale requires for the "awesome" factor Big Smile [:D], but not as much that it looks out of place with everything else.

-Chris

US Army Infantryman

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: East TX
Posted by modelchasm on Monday, February 2, 2009 5:47 PM

Alright ... it's settled then. I'm going to go with your healthy medium suggestion ... with a healthy dose of weathering, and about 1cc more flesh-tone on the face.

 

"If you're not scratching, you're not trying!"  -Scott

  • Member since
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  • From: Colorado
Posted by psstoff995 on Monday, February 2, 2009 6:02 PM

Cool deal. Sounds like the right balance to me- keep us posted!

Too bad I've got classes- wouldn't mind checking out Atlanta and that 1/9 scale SEAL, I can't comprehend the size of em

haha it's only 6 hours away

I think I'm going to a gun show up in Richmond next Sunday.

-Chris

US Army Infantryman

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: East TX
Posted by modelchasm on Monday, February 2, 2009 7:21 PM

sadly ... when I was in school, I can remember driving further for LESS significant things than a model show...

Wish I were only 6hrs away ....... ROAD TRIP!!!

"If you're not scratching, you're not trying!"  -Scott

  • Member since
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  • From: Colorado
Posted by psstoff995 on Monday, February 2, 2009 9:59 PM

Yeah, I mean home's 4 hours away for me. The 6 wouldn't be bad but between classes and my Residential Assistant job I have very little free time and I have no idea if I'd be able to find 12 hours of driving time + however long I'd be at the show-

+ if I'm on duty then there's no way. Disapprove [V]

-Chris

US Army Infantryman

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: East TX
Posted by modelchasm on Friday, February 6, 2009 10:53 AM

After doing a little more research on figure scales, I've found some information in an Osprey figure book that has really helped refocus my question as to how detailed the ACU pattern on this figure should be.

On a previous post, I stated that looking at a 120mm figure would be the same as looking at a real person at about 100m. THIS IS NOT TRUE. Per the books reference, a 120mm figure represents a person standing only 9' away from you. Seems a little close to me, but this tells me that the pattern SHOULD be painted in more detail than what I was thinking.

Once I get home on Monday from my trip, I plan to take some pictures of my ACUs using the distances in the book to represent figure scales from 1/16 - 1/48. Then I'll post them so that everyone can see the differences. Hopefully, this will make sense when I post it. Maybe I'll do a small write-up with it's own thread.

Hopefully, I'll get more done on this figure next week as well ......... well, we all have hopes and dreams I guess.

"If you're not scratching, you're not trying!"  -Scott

  • Member since
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  • From: United States
Posted by ww2modeler on Friday, February 6, 2009 4:00 PM
 modelchasm wrote:

After doing a little more research on figure scales, I've found some information in an Osprey figure book that has really helped refocus my question as to how detailed the ACU pattern on this figure should be.

On a previous post, I stated that looking at a 120mm figure would be the same as looking at a real person at about 100m. THIS IS NOT TRUE. Per the books reference, a 120mm figure represents a person standing only 9' away from you. Seems a little close to me, but this tells me that the pattern SHOULD be painted in more detail than what I was thinking.

Once I get home on Monday from my trip, I plan to take some pictures of my ACUs using the distances in the book to represent figure scales from 1/16 - 1/48. Then I'll post them so that everyone can see the differences. Hopefully, this will make sense when I post it. Maybe I'll do a small write-up with it's own thread.

Hopefully, I'll get more done on this figure next week as well ......... well, we all have hopes and dreams I guess.

Okay, sorry about that. 9' does seem a little close but maybe not.

David

On the bench:

1/35 Tamiya M26 Pershing-0%

1/144 Minicraft P-38J Lightning-50%

Numerous 1/35 scale figures in various stages if completion.

 

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: East TX
Posted by modelchasm on Friday, February 6, 2009 4:34 PM
 ww2modeler wrote:

Okay, sorry about that. 9' does seem a little close but maybe not.

David

Hey Dave, you're good. I just thought that I'd share some information that I had found. I just hope that it helps someone else out.

And just b/c I couldn't wait until I got home ... I took one of my Soldiers and had him stand about 10' away. I then held a ruler out at arms length and damn-it it he wasn't about 4-5" tall!?! Damn-dest thing I ever saw!!!

"If you're not scratching, you're not trying!"  -Scott

  • Member since
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  • From: Colorado
Posted by psstoff995 on Friday, February 6, 2009 8:40 PM

huh... well in that case, I guess I have no more excuse for being lazy Blush [:I]

-Chris

US Army Infantryman

  • Member since
    July 2006
Posted by rob gutkowski on Sunday, February 8, 2009 9:43 AM

Excellent work so far, I look forward to seeing the completed diorama.  You have gotten a lot of the little details that make the overall figure look more authentic.

Thanks for detailing out your process step-by-step, it will be helpful when I tackle my own project.

I started with WWII models, but after more than 20 years in uniform, I can't get into doing anything but modern.  It's good to see some others doing the same.  

For the ARPAT, I'd seen an article on this forum about a year ago, the guy used table salt as a mask and it looked  really good.

  • Member since
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  • From: East TX
Posted by modelchasm on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 11:02 AM

Howdy Rob,

Thanks for the compliments. After coming back home in '07, I just can't seem to get back to the WWII era.

I had seen the write-up for the ACU pattern using the salt method, but I thought that in 120mm I needed something a little more detail oriented. I'm basically using the same method written by "Maki" on the Armorama forums.

I'm hoping to get more photos/ work up this evening, and hoping to get the whole project done by the end of the week so that I can start on another project that's just itching to get worked on.

Thanks again for your compliments. I hope the end solution is up to everyone's standards.

"If you're not scratching, you're not trying!"  -Scott

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