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Figures - Simple System Help

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  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Mass. USA
Figures - Simple System Help
Posted by SlashSmiley on Friday, April 10, 2009 9:04 AM

I'm new to painting military figures; I've bought a few Tamiya sets just for practice, and played around with Vallejo Model Color on them. Problem is, I just can't get any solid direction as to a system. As I'm a newbie, I'd like to start 'uncomplicated.' I'm mostly working with Vietnam era infantry/ACAV.

 Any suggestions as to a book/reference? My current technique is to airbrush a base layer of Tamiya acrylic, then go over dry with a lighter shade of Vallejo, then pick out the shadows with a darker Vallejo shade. Does this sound right? I guess I'm just looking for direction. Most of the books I have seem a little too advanced for me, and before I try anything too crazy I want to get some basic results under my belt so I can build up my ego ;)

"Never tell people how to do things. Tell them what to do, and they will surprise you with their ingenuity. " - George S. Patton
  • Member since
    February 2004
Posted by mike91978 on Friday, April 10, 2009 10:05 AM

I agree that most books are too advanced.  It seems like they would rather show off their work than teach techniques.  This book is different. How to Paint Realistic Military Figures by Lynn Kessler and Don Winar.  It covers all the basics such as shading and highlighting with complementary colors.  There are chapters on painting black, white, and camo uniforms, painting armor and even horses.  I can't recommend this book enough.

Also check out this figure tutorial by Hermesminiatures: /forums/957910/ShowPost.aspx

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: East TX
Posted by modelchasm on Friday, April 10, 2009 11:07 AM

I have to agree with mike. I've used this particular book for almost every build .... 1/35 - 1/16.

As far as start a system .... each builder has his/ her own technique. I, personally, tend with build everything up, minus the head and hands (unless they have gloves on). I've found that, again, for me, that its easier to paint everything in substructures. I usually break it down to the body + gear, the head, the helmet, the weapon, and the hands. I don't like painting everthing before assembly b/c of trying to get the colors to match up. And there's always the factor of damaging the painted area during assembly.

However, most of this is discussed in the above book. And this is just my two cents ....

Good luck!

"If you're not scratching, you're not trying!"  -Scott

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Kristiansund, Norway
Posted by Huxy on Saturday, April 11, 2009 9:18 PM

May I suggest Games Workshop's book "How to paint Citadel Miniatures";

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat1290178&prodId=prod1290009&rootCatGameStyle=books

 

It covers all the basics, and includes step-by-step painting of different figures. This is all about figures. Of many kinds. As said, includes all the basics and step-by-steps. HIGHLY recommended! I bought it just a year ago, but I still learned alot!

 

Did I mention it's highly recommended???

-Lasse Big Smile [:D]

"Every War Starts And Ends With An Invasion".

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Mass. USA
Posted by SlashSmiley on Sunday, April 12, 2009 1:39 PM

Thanks for the link to the post...awesome tutorial.

 I have one question for you, though...I'm reading all about glazes, but each glaze tutorial shows about five gradiated glazes on top of the base color. Is that even possible in 1/35? Some uniform folds are about 1mm.

"Never tell people how to do things. Tell them what to do, and they will surprise you with their ingenuity. " - George S. Patton
  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: East TX
Posted by modelchasm on Sunday, April 12, 2009 4:33 PM

The larger the scale that you are dealing with, the more suttle the feathering can be. On 1/35 figures, I might only use three different shades at the most, but its all a matter of how you blend them in.

Also realize that as you're building these things, that your nose is always about 6in away. Get into the habit of stepping back and looking at your work. Most pieces are meant to be viewed no closer than say 12in. Most people will not get RIGHT up to you figures and eyeball them.

 

"If you're not scratching, you're not trying!"  -Scott

  • Member since
    February 2004
Posted by mike91978 on Monday, April 13, 2009 9:11 AM
 modelchasm wrote:

Also realize that as you're building these things, that your nose is always about 6in away. Get into the habit of stepping back and looking at your work. Most pieces are meant to be viewed no closer than say 12in. Most people will not get RIGHT up to you figures and eyeball them.

 

I agree.  As I'm painting 1/35 figures, I'll hold the figure out at arm's length to see how it looks.  This helps remind me that most people viewing my figures will not see every little mistake.

  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: Coastal Maine
Posted by dupes on Monday, April 13, 2009 11:05 AM
Getting some good advice here...did a quick check trying to find the "How to Paint Realistic Military Figures", not looking good so far ($100-$125 for used copies). Anyone know a source that might still have some in stock?
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Monday, April 13, 2009 12:41 PM

 dupes wrote:
Getting some good advice here...did a quick check trying to find the "How to Paint Realistic Military Figures", not looking good so far ($100-$125 for used copies). Anyone know a source that might still have some in stock?

E-bay Buy it Now for under $30.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Mass. USA
Posted by SlashSmiley on Monday, April 13, 2009 5:00 PM
Wow! Some excellent assistance here...much appreciated. Just bought the book on eBay...thanks again to all! I'll be frequenting this site more often!
"Never tell people how to do things. Tell them what to do, and they will surprise you with their ingenuity. " - George S. Patton
  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Monday, April 13, 2009 6:54 PM
I have a small mirror that I use t' check my work... The eye gets used to looking at a figure after a while, so I set mine down and look at it in the mirror.. The reverse angles often reveal something I didn't see before..

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Kristiansund, Norway
Posted by Huxy on Thursday, April 16, 2009 4:12 AM
Hm... How? What? Mirror error spotting technique? Please, explain that a bit more Big Smile [:D]

"Every War Starts And Ends With An Invasion".

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Thursday, April 16, 2009 6:10 AM
Simple... Just hold the figure up to a mirror to check it after a while.. Your eyes "get used to" or "trained" to the way it looks while you're painting, so looking at it in the mirror reverses the angle and things you over-looked just kind of "jump" out at you..

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, April 16, 2009 9:00 AM

 Hans von Hammer wrote:
Simple... Just hold the figure up to a mirror to check it after a while.. Your eyes "get used to" or "trained" to the way it looks while you're painting, so looking at it in the mirror reverses the angle and things you over-looked just kind of "jump" out at you..

 

I have to try that next time. Sounds like a great method to catch missed details. I would also recommend artists oils. The blending that can be done, specially on skin tones on larger figures is fantastic. You don't have to spend a lot of mula either. I picked up an entire set of artists oils from Hobby Lobby, minus the 40% coupon for about $10. 

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Mass. USA
Posted by SlashSmiley on Thursday, April 16, 2009 11:19 AM
It does sound like a great method; similar to looking at a Scrabble/Chessboard from a different angle. I've stocked my workbench with a cosmetic mirror (the kind that magnifies as well) as a result of your tip.
"Never tell people how to do things. Tell them what to do, and they will surprise you with their ingenuity. " - George S. Patton
  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Thursday, April 16, 2009 5:42 PM

Glad I could help... Picked it up from Shep Paine's book, How to Build Dioramas...

 Any suggestions as to a book/reference?

That book, if you only ever buy ONE modeling book, is THE book to have on your bench... His figure-painting tips & techniques are just the ticket for the beginner/intermediate 1/48th-1/35th-scale figure painter IMHO... Plus all the other great info in there...

The cosmetic mirror is a good idea as well.. I just use a little craft mirror, but I think I'll trade up now that you mentioned it..

Here's the rig I use right now..

 

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