washes on 1/16 multi camo figures?

yeah...dont feel bad!

thanks again camo junkie, yeah the pic looks great, one day i'll grow up and paint like that....lol

i have several thousand bottles of paint. mainly because a lhs was moving and i was able to get alot of it for a steal. that aside...everyone has their brand of paint. my opinion is whatever works best for ya. personally i love humbrol paints...but that's me. i hope that p.m. helped you in some way. its from a book (dont look for it on ebay or online stores) titled "francios verlindens "the system". mich toy soldier co. has it for $20 anywhere else from my research is rediculously expensive. that aside, you'll see everyone has their own way of doing things as well so you'll get 100 different answers on the same subject! do what works for you and use what works for you. nothing wrong with combining paints as well. i may sound like im repeating what you already know but since im not sure of that....! anyway, noticed from my last post i didnt tell you about the straps but since ajlafleche did...you get the idea!

thanks ajlafleche. Vallejo are great paint. i have a few of them but i have the basic colors. some yellow, black, white, gray, and the sort. i normally buy tamiya acrylic and MM acrylic and enamaels along with a few polly scale. the thing is paint is not cheap, no matter which brand you use. i bought a bunch of craft paint to try out because doog praised them highly, and they are cheap. i still have a few more colors i would like to get in Vallejo and some modal air brand, but the wifey gives me that look everytime i spend 30+ bucks on "stupid paint", lol. i appreciate all the help and advice given. i'll work on the straps, i'll have to repaint the face with oils, and try to "weather" the uniform.

I would start with a very dark gray base, saving true black for the darkest shadows and mixing the gray with a flesh or tan for the highlights. I'd keep semi gloss leather webbing for someone on parade, not in a combat/field situation.

Also, if you're going to move into figures, let me recommend Vallejo acrylics. They have color sets specifically for German camo. They are pricier than craft store acrylics, but they should be thinned, extending the value of he bottle and the bottles keep them fresh literally for years.

n/p. and hey, dont get discouraged if its not what you have in mind. this takes time and practice. but with a little effort you'll be surprised at what you can do. the black leather issue, i like to blend a combination of black paint and raw umber oils to create the blackish leather. i dont have a good pic to show you because i rarely paint black leather. plus i do all modern stuff and unless its soviet infantry, no need for it! but i have done a few belts and such!

thanks camo junkie. this is my first figure, and all advice is taken. appreciate the help. i'll check the PM.

im going to send you a p.m. on it. i cant post these pics on the forum. and if you look you will see it fits great because the artist painted a splinter uniform! look in your email for the p.m. as far as the face... well, these things happen. the best way to avoid it it to paint the face seperately then glue on afterwards!

thanks camo junkie. i used oils on the face, but the drying time was so long it drove me nuts. for the uniform i used apple barrel and folk art acrylics. i did accidently get paint on the face, and i couldn't rub it off in time, so i'm gonna have to re-do the face with my oils. i don't think have the colors of the uniform in oil, so i'll have to work with the acrylics on that part. i could re-do the straps with my oils. what/how do you reccomend black leather straps with the oils?

not sure what kinds of paints your using roo, but oils paint a nice looking leather both brown and blackish! you could do a lighter drybrushing to ease the color of the straps though. as far as the shadows affecting the splinter, remember, dark creases means you wont really see anything more than dark shadow. if you feel its an issue, you can paint a darker/lighter color of the splinter as well.

thank you gents. i'll try that instead of washing. lightened and darkened (not  with black/white) to the highlights and creases. do you think this will affect the splinters in the camo? and what is a good way to tone down the semi gloss on the black straps? i wanted to show that it is black leather, which tends to be semi gloss. but it looks a little too glossy.

On a 1/16 figure, you should work on painting in the highlights and shadows rather than attempting a wash. That can work on a quick and dirty small scale figure, but once you reach this size, it will look pretty bogus. So, yes, each color should get its own attention. Careful application of thinned darkened or lightened base colors in the valleys and on the upper surface of folds are what you want to attempt. Hold the figure under a single light source to get an idea of where the highlights and shadows should go. Also, avoid both black and white and additives to the base colors, they are too stark. In your case, I'd add buff to the green and brown and brown or light sand to the buff for highlights. For the green, red is a good darkening agent, dark green for the brown and brown for the buff.

personally rooster...(and this is just me), i wouldnt apply a wash to such a large figure. if your going for the "shadow" affect then i would apply darker colors (paint) of your base color into your folds, gaps, and creases! it looks alot better than a wash (on that size figure). your choice though.