SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

using oils

678 views
3 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    November 2005
using oils
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 9, 2004 11:54 PM
I think this question could go in the paint forum, but I know alot of peopel are using oils on their figs. Is it ok to use the oil paint that is in the tubes or is that a no go?
  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: New Hampshire, USA
Posted by link955 on Saturday, January 10, 2004 1:36 AM
Absolutely, you can use it! However, keep in mind most oil colors are translucent, meaning they will show what's under them if they're applied in thin coats. If you apply them thickly enough to cover, you hide detail. Using tube oil color is a little like painting with melted butter. So here's the trick I use, and it seems to work well: I prime what I am going to paint with acrylic color, in the same or nearly the same shade as I plan to paint with the oil color. This allows you to apply the oil in a very thin layer, and not hide details. Apply a layer of your oil color first, then add highlights and blend. Next apply your shadow colors and blend. You don't have to rush; oil colors will stay wet and workable for a very long time, often days, depending on how humid your house is. Patience is the key; once you have mastered your technique speed will come. And PRACTICE. Also, you might get a copy of Shepard Paine's "How to Build Dioramas." He has a very informative section in there about figure painting with oil color, along with mixing and blending guides. Hope this helps.
Ne cede malis (Latin: Yield not to misfortune)
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, January 10, 2004 5:27 AM
I use tube oils as well since it takes longer to dry and subtle shading is made much easier than with a quick drying medium such as acrylics. I mix my oils on a paper palette as the paper absorbs the excess oil in the paint. To make the paint easier to work with and not to cover detail, I use pure or artists turpentine instead of mineral turps. My brushes also seem to last longer and the effect is great. I use a 1/0 brush for the large facial areas and a 5/0 liner for the deep shadow areas as well as the eyes. I blend with a 00 or 000 brush to get the transition between shades smooth. It takes time and practice. The great part of oils is that if it doesn't look right at first, it is quick and easy to remove the paint. Once thoroughly dry, adding highlights is a piece of cake. If you can afford it, use Windsor & Newton oils. It is expensive, but has a very fine pigment and a tube goes a very long way ( it will last you years ). Other oils may be a bit rougher in pigment but is still usable. Try not to put the paint on all in one go. Rather do thin layers at a time. If the majority of oil is absorbed by the paper it dries much quicker than oils loaded with oil. All you really want is the pigment with as little actual oil as possible.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, January 10, 2004 2:18 PM
cool, thanks for the info Link and Tappie
JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.