My first Figure 1/16 scale infantryman (pics

The face looks alittle fake but other than that, its good

I think that also, I wonder why the oils look so grainy, I have no idea what I did or didnt do to cause that. Any ideas?

Did you use linseed oil or thinner to thin out the oils?

Regards, Dan

No, liquin, which was probably the problem:-) Its how I learn I guess!

Is tupertine a better oil thinner?

Great job for a first effort! OK.. here's what I think you need to try next time:
When you set out your colors (I am assuming you are using tube artist's oils) use thick paper or cardboard as a palette. This will leech out some of the linseed oil carrier. Don't use linseed oil to thin your colors either. It will greatly increase your drying time and can contribute to the "grainy" look. Use wax paper, butcher paper or aluminum foil to mix and blend your colors.
Prime your figure first with acrylic colors, close to the colors you will paint the figure. Artist's oil paints are by-and-large translucent, which means they will show what's under them when applied thinly. This is great for painting on canvas but not so great for painting figures! If you apply them thickly enough to cover, you hide detail and get heavy brush marks, which is never a good look for figures. Also, flat acrylic gives the surface a bit of a "tooth" and the oil color will apply more smoothly. Apply your base oil color over all of the area you're working on. Next add highlights and blend; then add shadows and blend. Be careful how much blending you do; oil colors have a tendency to become "muddy" when overworked, and it's nearly impossible to bring a color back up when it's gone to mud. The great thing about oils is they stay wet and workable long enough that if you don't like what's happening you can wipe them off and start over; this is another reason for the acrylic primer, as the oil color won't "attack" it and lift off if you need to make a correction.
In answer to PvtParts question: clean turpentine works fine; odorless artists turp works better, and mineral spirits also work.
My best advice: Get Sheppard Paine's "How to Build Dioramas." I learned most of what I needed to start from him. He includes some great tips and a color mixing guide. There is a whole chapter on painting figures. And PRACTICE! Talent goes some way but talent requires discipline too. You got the talent, as far as I can see, you just need to get the skills. Good luck! And keep up the good work!

Looks OK for a first job. I agree with Link. having worked with oils (in painting) for quite some time already myself.

But don't despair it is still a good job. And there is still a chance to improve it.

Good luck and thanks for sharing.

Wouldn't you recomend against using acrylics as primers? They tend to fix into place when drying so if you coat them with an oil-based paint it might crack.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Pvt.Parts Wouldn't you recomend against using acrylics as primers? They tend to fix into place when drying so if you coat them with an oil-based paint it might crack.

Well... that hasn't happened to me yet, and I've been painting figures with this technique for over 20 years. I do allow the acrylic to cure-through for 24 hours before applying oil based color over it. Don't know if that makes a difference or not. If it still worried you, you can prime with enamels, but here again make sure to let them cure for at least 24 hours. The point is you can't just paint with the oil color onto bare plastic or resin.

I think its fine. Nice job for a first try, Miller. The image size is quite heavy though. My computer took forever to open the thread. Thanks for sharing.

Question on the acrylic base coat. Do you brush paint it on and how much should you thin the paint. I notice that painting without thinning using acrylics the paint tends to be very uneven, and like you said, it should be smooth when you go over it with oils.

Thanks for all the responses, I am going to try what you said links on my next figures.

QUOTE: Originally posted by miller41 Question on the acrylic base coat. Do you brush paint it on and how much should you thin the paint. I notice that painting without thinning using acrylics the paint tends to be very uneven, and like you said, it should be smooth when you go over it with oils. Thanks for all the responses, I am going to try what you said links on my next figures.

I'm sorry, I guess I wasn't too clear about the acrylics; I use Tamiya, Polly-S or (rarely) Testors bottled acrylics for priming. Perhaps I've been lucky, because I never had a problem with brush marks with the acrylic colors. Of course, using good brushes helps. I guess you thought maybe I meant artist's acrylic colors in tubes? Sorry for the confusion.

Firast of all: good job onthe figure. I wish my first fgure looked only half as good as yours!

I use only acrylics by Vallejo for my figures with a white or gray enamel primer. I do this because if I use an acrylic primer the color goes easily off, epecially from white metal, when painting over it.
Hearing that you use an acrylic primer made me wonder: don't you get the same problem?

no link thats what I use, I suppose I need to upgrade my brushes then huh:-)

QUOTE: Originally posted by Avus Firast of all: good job onthe figure. I wish my first fgure looked only half as good as yours! I use only acrylics by Vallejo for my figures with a white or gray enamel primer. I do this because if I use an acrylic primer the color goes easily off, epecially from white metal, when painting over it. Hearing that you use an acrylic primer made me wonder: don't you get the same problem?

Sorry Avus... here again I was being a bit unclear. Of course you should always prime a white metal figure; I use either Floquil Figure Primer (white or grey, depending on what's available!) or Tamiya Metal Primer laquer, which is clear. When I paint a plastic or resin figure I generally don't use a primer undercoat, though it's often a good idea because it makes any flaws easier to find and fix. The acrylic colors are used as the first color layer, because as I point out artist's oils don't cover well in thin coats. The acrylic color gives depth to the oil color without having to use a heavy application. Hope this helps, and again I apologize for any confusion.
Also, I hope no one thought I was being critical of miller's figure; I think he did a great job! I was just trying to help with his oil painting technique.

miller 41;
Good result for a first try, like others it took me time to get use of using oil paints, the secret is to keep at it and not be discouraged by earlier attemps, it is worth it. Keep up the good work.

Like link995 I also use Tamyia Acrylic as a base coat that is either srayed on or hand brushed depending on the fiqure. I usually leave the base coat to cure for 72 hours before applying the oils. Occassionally I have overcoated the Acrylic with a clear finish (usually dulcoate) to help seal it.

For Pvt Parts I usually use a high quality Artists Distilled Turpentine for oils. IMHO it is better than normal turpentine.

Looking good for the first time.
mark956

Great first effort...

I agree with Link, when doing a resin figure, definitely prime it with an acrylic. Fully dried acrylics won't interact with oils. That being said, I typically use grey lacquer-based automotive primer through my airbrush, applied in very thin coats. Once it dries, it sticks. It's a bit more pricey, and far more toxic, but I like the results. I used it on my 101st AB figure in this same forum.

The whole premise of oils is keep them thin enough to allow blending. I can't stress how important patience is in this process...It took my 13 tries before I got the airborne figure the way I wanted it.

Acrylics are basically the same...instead of 'painting' with acrylics, you lay down basic layers of color, then blend with thinner washes.

It's all trial and error...but in the end, it's very rewarding when you turn out a figure that actually looks like a person instead of Gumby.

Regards,

Jeff Herne
Modelwarships.com