Painting German Elite figures

Star out with a good coat of primer, allow to cure. I like red oxide primer for figures. Base coat of color should be the lightest color first, most prefer enamels. Once you are satisfied with the pattern of camouflage do the highlights & shadows.  Acrylic wash darker than the base color, add a drop of dish soap to the wash can flow into creases and dark areas of the clothing. Highlights can be a lighter shade of the base color dry brushed lightly on the highlights.

Always paint figures from skin to outer layer, like the way you dress. Skin tones & color are more important than fine details that would not be seen on a real person 30 feet away. 

It sounds like this is for a 'Battle of the Bulge' scene, many of the German uniforms were reversible hooded style with white / fall camouflage patterns. Good luck & post some pictures of your progress!

Thanks very much for your help.  Any tips on the acrylic wash you mentioned above - how watery should it be?  Dont want the pain running everywhere.

Pauline

How thin the wash should be is a matter of experimentation. I use Isopropyl rubbing alcohol in a eye dropper and thin it as I go. Demineralized water works as well, tap water will leave stains as it is not pure. The Isopropyl evaporates fast so have a bit on hand to 'top up' The wash should darken the recesses & shadows without changing the entire color. Try just painting it on where it should be, doing the entire figure in one swipe kind of defeats the purpose of 'shadows & highlights'.

I will post a few figure pictures for you to examine, my work is far from 'master level yet they turn out convincing:

First thing first, red oxide primer and basic skin tones. I do not like the 'flesh' color, add brown and or red to it.

The rest of the basic colors, not heads remain off as they can be added later with ease of shirt collar painting now.

Shown are my 3 colors for skin tones. Washes for recesses & shadows, highlights dry brushed.

Pencil crayons are handy to add details like eye brows, mustaches, the 'shine' in the leather jacket, Lead pencil for metal zippers & badges.They work better over flat paint as its rougher than gloss and will 'grip' the pencil crayon pigment better.

First for me, eyes added with a white 'wax industrial crayon. It is for marking fabric, plastic etc. The genius of it is it 'chips off with a sharp tooth pick, 'dab' the white on and trim to size. Blue added with a blue pencil crayon. Hair shine is future brushed on. 

Figures on a suitable base, later will be added to a P-51 under repair.

I hope this quick tutorial helps you, as always practice and experiment to find the technique that works for you.