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1:2 Samurai Armour Build.

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  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Thursday, November 28, 2013 1:04 PM

Hey James, hope you're feeling better now. I'd like to see more progress but please wait till you're feeling up to it.

Thanks for the link, that is so neat, just that I can think of a lot of other stuff I'd rather spend that much money on!

Cliff

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Thursday, November 28, 2013 9:51 AM

Hi chaps

I have not forgotten about you all.

I have had a bout of ill health due to my very badly damaged dicky ticker and so have had to put things on hold for a while.

I have also had to review just how I am building this and have gone back to the stages that come with the build. While this means that you do jump around a bit it also means that you use everything in the pack and are less likely to loose anything. I have also changed the glue I use for the armour parts to 2 part epoxy designed for metal bonding. Take it from me as a builder with experience of this thing... it is better!

The elusive rivet remains elusive at this moment in time and I am about to enter negotiations with the bench gremlin! 

 

For those who would like to tackle something unusual like this it is now available in the USA!

www.model-space.com/.../samurai

I am preparing another update for you all :)

Go on folks - you know you want something unusual to build and learn new skills as well as display!

Get your other half (SWMBO) to get you a subscription for Christmas!

James

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Friday, August 9, 2013 9:40 AM

Hey Snapdragon, I hope you haven't forgotten about us, I really want to see how this turns out!

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Spartanburg, SC
Posted by subfixer on Wednesday, July 17, 2013 10:45 AM

Find the missing rivet yet?

I'm from the government and I'm here to help.

  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Sunday, July 14, 2013 2:34 PM

Pack 2

As I sit here putting up the first part of pack 2 I have pack three behind me in a huge jiffy bag! The thing has come before I am ready - either that or I am working too slow!

 

Anyway. On with the helmet.

This time we have the peak, crest holder and the first part of the neck guard. Here are the parts

There are some very small parts and I decided to use them first and put the detail onto the first neckguard piece. The decorative parts are made to resemble plumb blossom and despite being tiny they are very well detailed. They were attached with cyro and tweesers with masking tape to provide a little extra grip and not to spoil the finish.

Next up is the peak. Once again there are some very small rivets.

I attached the peak to the helmet with tape and then used the small rivets to fix the peak in position. Cyro was used to bond the parts together along with a little careful finger pressure.

now comes the crest holder. I put the large rivet into the holder and put a bit of making tape on just to hold it in place. I then put the holder onto the helmet and marked off wher it fitted with some tape and applied a little cyro to the back of the crest holder.

This is where it went wrong. I managed to drop the last rivet fixer onto the floor and I can't find it at this moment in time. There are no spares in the pack at all, so I will have to find it!

The last bit of this build is to add the spring thing that the crest will fit on to. It just slots into place with no glue.

Here is a picture of the helmet to date with the first part of the neck guard in position, but not attached.

The next post we have more breatplate parts. Once again, comments and questions welcome.

James

  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Sunday, July 14, 2013 2:16 PM

Indeed they did. The parts for this build are black with a clear gloss laquer on the top. When polished using furniture polish it gleams!

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Spartanburg, SC
Posted by subfixer on Sunday, July 14, 2013 8:49 AM

Very nice!  Didn't the Japanese utilize lacquer in their armor, also?

I'm from the government and I'm here to help.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Tuesday, July 9, 2013 7:21 AM

Wow, I have to appreciate how carefully everything is packed to make sure it doesn't end up scratched or damaged!

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Monday, July 8, 2013 10:48 AM

The Parts.

In this pack comes stages 5-8. Each stage is subdivided and you do jump about a bit, but for clarity and my own sanity and also bench space I sub divided the parts in the blister packs once again into into Helmet, Breastplate, & Tassets. Here we have photos of each stage packs and then close ups of the individual parts. Some parts require me to do some macro shooting which I will do during the build. I did not want to break open some of the packaging as these parts are very small and losing them on a build like this is not what I want. At this stage of the build and due to the current hot and very sticky weather my build room is, despite large opening windows a veritable sweat box and I dislike working in there so I decamp into another room which is much bigger, airy, has the same light and I can sit next to and open window that carries the breeze over me and keeps me cool and my grumpy temper moderate. For space reasons I did the photography in my build room which had me sweating in minutes mainly because the lighting in there is a proper white diffused light. Some photos, despite being in exactly the same conditions have come out different to others! Go figure!

Stage 5

[

In stage 5 we have a length of dark blue lace, Helmet visor, 3 Tasset leather backings, 3 Tassets, assorted fixing screws and lugs and two parts for the crest holder.

Stage 6

In stage 6 we have gold and dark blue lengths of lace, Plum Blossom helmet detail parts, first part of the helmet neck guard (two photos – it was not easy to photograph this part), 3 Tasset leather backings and 3 Tassets.

Stage 7

In stage 7 we have Breastplate parts (2), Joining plate (2), 2 lengths of lace (blue & Gold), cord and joining pin

Stage 8

In stage 8 we have Blue Lace, cord and locking pin, Breastplate parts (2) Locking Plate, 2 Tasset leather backings and 2 Tassets.

Again the armour parts are black lacquered pressed steel and the backing is leather which has a sticky side to it. Now rather than jump around with the build, as parts are spread across multiple stages I will divide them up into Helmet, , Breastplate and tassets. In this pack there are parts for a complete set of tassets and two tassets which will be held over until pack 3. It makes sense to build a complete set of tassets all at once rather than split it up over the month. It just makes it easier to put together. Let’s move on!

  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Monday, July 8, 2013 10:43 AM

edited: see correct post below!!!!

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Thursday, July 4, 2013 8:27 PM

James: They probably rejected it for being too long. Or at least that's my guess. Thanks for sharing with us though!

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Thursday, July 4, 2013 1:06 PM

I did offer this build to FSM as a 14 month article series. I did a draft of the introduction and first pack but, because it is not a plastic kit is a box they have turned their noses up and don't want to know. I am not interested in the money (although it is nice) I am just interested in applying the title to the model

Fine Scale Model.

Is this not a Fine Scale Model?

If you would like to see this in print (I am not bothered about the money) then Harrass the brass!

The build will continue in a few days, so stay tuned. If you have any questions, or know where I can get a 1:2 scale katana and stand then just post here!

James

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Florida-West Central
Posted by Eagle90 on Thursday, July 4, 2013 10:22 AM

James, I do believe you have taken the hobby to a new level!  What an awesome subject and great work man!  I was completely taken in by the build!  Thanks so much for sharing and posting the pics...again, what a great build!

Eagle90

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Thursday, July 4, 2013 9:41 AM

WOW, that is awesome! That Zero is so very tempting!

Cliff

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Wednesday, July 3, 2013 3:51 AM

I don't mind at all, Gamera. This, as you will agree is a unique kit.

However, If I may take this time to whet your appitite with another partwork build which will be released in the US Later this year......

It is a 1/16 Mitsubishi Zero

Here is the front page for the US deag site

www.model-space.com/.../military

And some extra info on the zero (PDF)

www.model-space.com/.../zero_boost.pdf

I am also doing this and it is just beautiful. All aluminium and white cast metal and really well detailed. It is 1/16 and so is not small, but one of those partwork kits that just stand out from the crowd, There is also a rumour that there could be a 1/16 Mustang in the future too - but at the moment that is just speculation and rumour!

James

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Tuesday, July 2, 2013 10:41 AM

James: Actually I'm a yank and well, cool as it is I can buy a lot of aircraft/tank kits for 36 pounds a month even with the paint! And I don't have anywhere really to display it. So if you don't mind I'll just vicariously follow along with your build!  

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Monday, July 1, 2013 6:10 PM

Thanks Gamera. If you are in the UK you can subscribe for £36 per month. All you need to put this together is some basic tools that every modeller has and ther is no need for painting as the parts come ready painted in black laquer.

I already have the second pack in front of me and I will be starting to photograph the stage packs and parts Tomorrow once I have cleared my bench and given me some room!

The instructions say that you need 3 types of glue, after experimenting I am just sticking with superglue. This means that the only purchase so far outside the kit monthly payment is some superglue off ebay!

How much extra do you spend on paints for a plastic kit? sometimes if can be the same as the kit itself! Not with this one!

James

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Monday, July 1, 2013 2:30 PM

Wow! That's amazing! If I wasn't so cheap I'd try one myself.

Thanks for allowing us to follow along. It's going to be beautiful when you're done!

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Sunday, June 30, 2013 5:23 PM

The Tassets.

In this build there are 11 sets of tassets consisting of 6 pieces of linked armour. In European armour the tassets either consisted of 1 solid metal plate that buckled on to the bottom of the breastplate or a series of metal pieces that were riveted together and then buckled on to the bottom of the breastplate. In Japan the tassets were individual pieces f armour that were laces together and then laced on to the bottom of the breastplate armour. Their design was to give both protection and movement ability to the hip and groin area. They actually cover a gap in the armour between the bottom of the chest armour and the top of the leg armour.

Let’s look at the parts.

Part Preparation Before we can lace the parts together we have to prepare the tassets by applying a backing and also prepare the laces for threading through the holes. The instructions contain hints etc and lengths (approx.) needed for the laces and how to prepare them. First of all the Tassets themselves. The backing is soft leather about 1mm thick and has a covered ready applied adhesive. I use one of the tips in the instructions to make sure that the tasset and backing go together correctly by the use of cocktail sticks.

Before applying the leather backing I first pull pack the adhesive covering to uncover the holes. By doing it this way I don’t stick myself to the backing or get sticky finger marks everywhere and mess things up!

Once I have the top part of the backing in place correctly and lines up with assistance of the cocktail sticks I apply the backing carefully pulling off the cover and smoothing the backing onto the metal plate.

Once done, the part looks like the photo below and I do this to all 6 tasssets.

The next part is to prepare the laces. I forgot to photograph one end (DOH!) but after cutting laces to the right length you have to unpick one end and then using sharp scissors (I actually found a razorblade to be easier) you cut a “V” end,   apply a little white glue  and then twist it into a thin thread which will go through the holes. Later on you can see this. The other end you glue together in a particular way. The Samurai armour makers used this. First you fold over the end vertically and glue it.

Then fold that over horizontally and glue it.

When done correctly it gives you mountain folds on one side of the lace and valley folds on the other for the threading through so care is taken to  make sure that during this process the lace is kept flat.

The Bottom Plate decoration.

This seemed to be the best place to start and to get to grips with the threading of the lace, the patterns that would be made and also the pattern of valley and mountain folds (Mountain at the front and valley at the back). I first did a test just to see how the lace threads and a mountain fold at the front.

Once I had figured this out and read the instructions and looked at the photos several times to get things fixed in my head on what to do I set to work….

A Samurai ball knot was tied at the end and a blob of glue applied.

The next part was to do the cross thread pattern. Once again I went through the instructions and photos quite a few times before continuing.

You can see in the above pictures that the mountain folds are on the front and the valley on the rear of the tasset. Also this section starts with a ball knot. I continue on until I reach the end aqnd then follow the sequence shown in the instructions to start going back the other way.

Once we have worked the way back to where we started then the fun and games begin

Once again I followed the instructions and photographed each step.

Once complete all I have to do is to tidy things up and snip off any threads close to the knots (both ball) and apply a bit of glue. By this time I have moved onto superglue as it sinks into the knot and dries clear.

looking from the front all looks good and the part is ready for a polish to remove fingerprints and is ready to go on the bottom of the tasset.

Building the Tasset.

Once you get down to this part it is not as intimidating as it seems, but you do have to be accurate with where each tasset sits in relation to each other. Once again we deal with mountain and valley threading through the holes and crossover areas that actually hold the tasset in place.

To help with the tasset placement we have a card that came with this pack and not only has a full size layout diagram but also a threading guide too.

At this stage I thought that it would be a good idea to mask off the front of the plates so that my finger marks would not get on the plates. Even then, once the tasset is finished I will still give each plate a polish with pledge and a lint free cloth. I photographed each part, and so you can see the entire process. The sequence of photos makes it easy to follow and you can also see the placement guide in use as well as the beginning of the lace I described earlier as well as a close up of a ball knot.

The only thing left to do is to thread the gold tasset lace through the sides of each tasset. This is easy to do and took no time at all as it is the same as the tasset construction but without any crossover areas. Oce again the lace was preapared in the same way and for the other 10 tassets I will add the gold lace as I am constructing the tasset. The photo below shows the completed tasset, still with the masking in place at this moment.

This ends this, the first of 14 months of building this armour. Next month we continue with another set of tassets, more helmet details and more on the breastplate section.

 

James

  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Sunday, June 30, 2013 5:21 PM

Here is my Faceplate build.

Or rather the first part of it as there is more to come.

The parts

The fist things I attached to the lower faceplate were the ears.

I didn't have any problems and used s clamp until the cyrowhatever had cured (not long!) it now looks as if the thing can actually hear me being grumpy!  :D although I did check with the instructions a couple of times to make sure that I got them the right way round and not the wrong way round and upside down!!!

Moving on I inserted the faceplate drain in to the hole and wondered if the Samurai drooled alot in combat!!

next comes the attachment points on each side of the facemask. I did a dry fit with each one making sure that everything was the right way round and did come across a problem

the fancy bit of the attchement point didn't quite fit!

Ah! no need to worry, It's metalwork 101 and the part just needs a bit of extra bending. Now to avoid the finish getting damaged we take action on our bending plyers first and wrap the jaws in tamiya masking tape

The part is bent to fit the contours in small stages being test fitted many times until it fits snugly. THen I applied tiny blobs of liquid cyro and attached. This was done on both sides.

The nose attachment made me think. I know that there is a moustach and beard to fit onto the faceplate and that being able to work on the nose seperatly could be a good thing and would give more room to work and so I have only fixed the left nose fixing point permanently. The right one is only dry fitted at this moment in time so I can remove the nose. It should be easy to fix properly later.

Here we have the nose in place, but removeable. for storage I will apply a bit of tamiya masking tape so no parts go astray.

That's the first part of the face mask finished. A quick squirt with pledge and a good rub with a duster to remove fingermarks

Next build post... Something which has occupied the braincell in the locker at the back of the skull ever since the first pack arrived...... THE TASSET!!!!!!   :pray:

  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Sunday, June 30, 2013 5:20 PM

Next up is the breastplate. Not much to mention about this part of the build apart from that it is wise to clamp the parts until the glue has cured prepoerly.

The Parts

THe first part I attached to the main frontplate was the upper part where the straps etc will attach. Once again I used drops of superglue and clamps with rubber pads on not only to prevent scratches to the finish, but to grip the parts too

Here is a picture of the joined parts. Any smears and fingerprins are cleaned off with a squirt of Pledge and a microfibre cloth plus some elbow grease. It also adds to the shine too!!!!

THe two hinge plates are attached with the same method.

That's it for this part for the moment. No major issues to report building the first part of the breastplate apart from the obvious of looking out for scratches etc and protecting the parts. I will leave on the protective plastic on the front plate as long as I can.

Next part, the face mask.

  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Saturday, June 29, 2013 7:10 AM

HELMET

Let’s start with the Helmet. We are not going to get all the helmet at once and the parts are going to come through as the build progresses month by month. Each section of the build will be an on-going build!

Reading through the instructions for this month we put together all the parts that we need to start to assemble the helmet. Basic modellers skills are needed here, along with a screwdriver. Having the instructions on computer makes it easy to follow as you can zoom in as far as you need to. I also produce a build log with all the parts for the sections as well as where in the instruction set they are. It helps me to keep track.

At this moment in time I beat the underbench parts goblin into senselessness as there are some very small parts and assembled from the four packs the helmet parts.

Everything is black lacquered metal and I photographed this with no flash to avoid reflections and so you can see the detail. The helmet is in two halves and this is the first thing we have to deal with, putting them together. The picture below shows that even I don’t read the instructions properly and I scratched my head as the two halves fit together great until I added the piece and screws that fixes them together. As you may just make out there are a couple of arrows. Actually reading the instructions the arrows must match each other! DOH!

Out comes the screwdriver – Pay attention, James! Read things!

After fixing my mistake the helmet bowl fits together perfectly and you can’t see the seam from the outside.

Although it doesn’t say so, I run a thin bead of cyrowhatever along the inside of the join.

Next up is to add some tiny lugs to the helmet bowl on the outside. Now the instructions don’t make it very clear which holes to use so I get out my make it bigger lens.

The lugs – Like it says in the mirror in Jurassic Park – Items seen here are closer than you think! In this case the items below are far larger than they really are!!!!!

By use of my “make-it-bigger-to-see-better-lens” and my macro photography lens I worked out where they go. The photographs below show the two holes, one is slightly bigger than the other. The second photo shows the lug in place. A tiny drop of superglue was used.

Let’s move on to the Helmet bowl rim. This consists of two pieces which are fixed together. Basic modellers skills needed here. Along with some dry fitting to make sure that I know where to put the superglue.

There we are. Ready to be fitted to the bowl – Can you see the join??

The last part for the helmet in pack one is the fixing of the rim onto the bowl. No major things here. Just a few dry fits to make sure that I know where to but the superglue. I have used the liquid stuff so far. Once put together and the glue has cured the first part of the helmet is done!

Just a spray with furniture polish and a rub with a cloth to remove all the fingerprints and that can wait for next month.

Comments and questions welcome.

James

  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Friday, June 28, 2013 3:46 PM

Pack 1

The Parts.

In the pack there are 4 stages. When originally published in Japan this was a weekly partwork available from their equivalent of newsagents and monthly subscription. So each blister pack of parts is what you would get every week (or 4 per month. Each stage is subdivided and you do jump about a bit, but for clarity and my own sanity and also bench space I subdivided the parts into Helmet, Breastplate, facemask & Tassets.

In a huge brown well padded jiffy bag and in blister packs came the first of 14 packs loaded with parts. Take a look at this!

In stage 1 we have helmet bowl left, lower face mask, Tasset & Tasset backing, ears, length of dark blue lace, faceplate drain hole, decorative parts and fixing points.

In stage 2 we have helmet bowl right, nose, helmet joining part, Tassets & backings, Nose fixing lugs, screws

In stage 2 we have Tasset spacing template, helmet rim 1, helmet rim 2, Tassets & backings, helmet lugs, lace

In stage 4 we have breastplate, breastplate upper, hinge Left/Right, Gold Lace.

The last photograph is a close-up of the lace showing the weave. Both blue and gold are the same weave.

The armour parts are black lacquered pressed steel and the backing is leather which has a sticky side to it. Now rather than jump around with the build, as parts are spread across multiple stages I will divide them up into Helmet, Faceplate, Breastplate and tassets.

Let’s move on!

 

  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Friday, June 28, 2013 3:11 PM

I forgot to add that this partwork is only available in the UK at present, but may come to the US in the future.

  • Member since
    November 2004
1:2 Samurai Armour Build.
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Friday, June 28, 2013 3:11 PM

Build 1:2 scale Samurai Armour

“And Now For Something Completely different!”

An apt quote from Monty Python for this is an unusual type of model kit. For the next 14 months I will be building a half size replica of Date Masamune’s Samurai armour. First of all a picture of the finished armour and then I will expand a little more on what is involved and why I think that modellers should look outside plastic in a box and be adventurous.

Who was Date Masamune? 

Born at Yonezawa, September 5, 1567,  died June 27, 1636. Masamune was the head on the Date clan from 1600 during the Sengoku period in Japan. This is also known as the Warring States period or to we in the west, Civil War. Masamune is known for a few things that made him stand out from other daimyo of the time. In particular, his famous crescent-moon-bearing helmet won him a fearsome reputation. As a child, smallpox robbed him of sight in his right eye, though it is unclear exactly how he lost the organ entirely, some sources say that he took out the eye himself, whole others say that a favoured retainer took it out for him. Because of this he gained the nickname "One-Eyed Dragon" due to his aggressiveness and unstable demeanour but it was always used with respect.

Masamune wasn’t just a warlord, but also a patron of the arts and religion. After defeating hostile clans he eventually ruled one of the largest fiefdoms of the later Tokugawa Shogunate. Masamune's greatest achievement was funding and backing one of Japan's few journeys of far-flung diplomacy and exploration in this period. He ordered the building of the exploration ship Date Maru or San Juan Bautista, using foreign (European) ship-building techniques. He sent one of his retainers, Hasekura Tsunenaga, The Christian preacher Sotelo, and an embassy numbering 180 on a successful voyage to establish relations with the Pope in Rome. This expedition visited such places as the Philippines, Mexico, Spain and Rome, making it the first Japanese voyage to sail around the world. Previously, Japanese lords had never funded this sort of venture, so it was probably the first successful voyage. At least five members of the expedition stayed in Coria (Seville) of Spain to avoid the persecution of Christians in Japan.

On to the model.

This model is similar to plastic kits. Really it as a replica as I will be dealing with metal plates, leather backing, tapes, cords, material, chain mail and other items. This is a partwork. For those outside Europe let me explain a little more. A partwork is a model kit that comes with weekly or monthly deliveries under a subscription basis. These partworks are very expensive and this partwork is costing me £36 per month for 14 months – do your own math!

Right now you are probably spitting out your breakfast/lunch/dinner at working out the cost, but let me calm you down. The reason for this expense? We are using exact materials made to scale. You will NOT find this in any model shop in a box to buy complete and so to a degree partworks are limited editions. In the price I get these parts delivered by a not very happy postman (the packages are heavy and very well protected) and phone/email customer support should I have a problem. The excellent instructions are downloaded in PDF format from the Deagostini Website and they have their own forums for customers where members can post for help or to share information and pictures of their build etc. There are other forums as well that deal with partworks and I myself post on a regular basis as I have about 6 partworks on the go at this time.

So during this build (or assembly) I will be learning new skills, such as Samurai Knot Tying, Sewing, mountain and valley folds, chain mail skills and plate armour skills. I will also have to build a stand for this too, so woodwork skills are in the mix as well. I think that there are other skills too, but as I have no Idea on what will come and when or what other skills I will develop It keeps you interested and you see on a monthly basis the armour getting bigger and more complex.

Why should modellers think outside the box? Easy! Something different! Develop new skills and give guests and visitors something different to look at than aircraft/tanks/ships/cars… Already, guests at my house who have seen the work I have done on this have said that they are looking forwards to seeing this in a case and interest has gone up in my work!

Imagine that you build this and put it in a case with LED strip lighting that makes the black metal armour gleam. What is the first thing that your guests and visitors look at? When faced with a cabinet of aircraft/ships/tanks….. Yes! Something different!

There is nothing wrong in being adventurous as a modeller. It is what gives us new skills and may spark an interest in something away from the norm. This is what has attracted me to this partwork as it is something different from the plastic ships, tanks and aircraft I normally charge headlong into and as a consequence quite often mess things up. Patience is a strongpoint with me, but excitement in getting the latest kit etc is usually my downfall.

This armour build is good for me as it will teach me patience in a build, new skills which I can possibly modify to use elsewhere and also gives me a chance to learn how this armour was actually assembled by replicating and using the techniques used by the armour builders themselves. You see this armour used in movies, particularly in “The Last Samurai” with Tom Cruise’s red and black armour and it looks fantastic. Now I have a chance to build/assemble my own half scale set of a famous Japanese Daimyo and warrior.

It will not fit any person, unless you are a very small hobbit and is for display only. Full size wearable replicas cost thousands to buy. Me? I’m happy with this set and learning all about the armour.

For those interested in taking up this, you can sign up for this partwork here:

http://www.model-space.com/gb/military/our-military-models/samurai/

 

Now then! Let’s start shall we!

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